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Hair straightening composition containing urea

Hair straightening composition containing urea
IPC classes for russian patent Hair straightening composition containing urea (RU 2424790):
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FIELD: chemistry.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to cosmetology, specifically to a water-based hair straightening composition, having pH between 12 and 14, containing i) a hydroxide ion generator selected from a group comprising lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide and sodium hydroxide; and ii) 0.5-20 wt % urea, where the weight ratio of urea to the hydroxide ion generator is between 12:1 and 3:1. The invention also relates to a method for lanthionisation of keratin fibre.

EFFECT: invention reduces hair damage caused by hydroxide-based straightening compositions.

5 cl, 5 ex, 4 tbl

 

The technical field to which the invention relates.

The present invention relates to compositions for hair straightening.

Prior art

It is assumed that the straightening or fluttering curls much curly hair increases their flexibility and ease of installation of such hair. There is increasing demand for products for hair care, referred to as "hair straighteners"who can develop or straighten naturally curly or wavy hair. Straighteners hair can either be applied in beauty salons by professionals, or individual home consumers.

The hair shaft, keratin material, includes proteins (polypeptides). Many polypeptides in hair shafts are connected to each other or crosslinked by disulfide bonds (-S-S-). Disulfide bonds can be formed by reaction of two sulfhydryl groups (-SH), each of which belongs to the cysteine residue, which leads to the formation of cystine residue. The rest of the cystine includes intermolecular bond of the formula-CH2-S-CH2 - between 2 polypeptides.

Although there are other types of relationships that occur between polypeptides in hair, such as ionic (salt) connections, permanent or form of hair largely depends on disulfide bonds cystine residues.

Specifically, the hydroxide ions initiate the reaction, which are broken cystine intermolecular bonds (-CH2-S-CH2-) and formed lanthionine intermolecular bonds (-CH2-S-CH2-).

Therefore, the term "Latinization" is used in that case, if the specialist in the art involves fluttering or straightening keratin fibers under the action of hydroxide ions.

Hair that were latinasian when using the compositions, generating a hydroxide ion, is often felt as rough and can break if care.

Thus there remains a need for compositions and methods of straightening keratin fibers, which maintain the effectiveness of razvevanie under the action of hydroxide ion, at the same time without causing negative characteristics associated with latinitatis hair.

Description of the invention

In one aspect of the present invention is tositsa to the composition for hair straightening, water-based, having a pH from 12 to 14, including

i) the generator of the hydroxide ion and

ii) from 0.5 wt.% up to 20 wt.% urea of the total composition, where the ratio by weight of urea to the generator hydroxide ion is greater than 1:1.

In another aspect, the invention relates to a method of straightening the hair by applying to the hair the above-described composition.

An additional aspect of this invention is the use of urea in the system for hair straightening hydroxide-based to enhance the activity of straightening and/or to reduce hair damage.

Detailed description of the invention

Composition for straightening includes urea.

The content of compounds of urea is in the range from 0.5 wt.% up to 20 wt.% of the total composition, more preferably from 1 wt.% up to 15 wt.%, more preferably from 3 to 10 wt.%.

The composition may be used any suitable generator hydroxide, is preferred lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide is particularly preferred. In some cases, as in the case of guanidine hydroxide is preferred hydroxide in situ.

Generator hydroxide is preferably present in a concentration in the range from 0.1 wt.% up to 8 wt.% of the total composition, more preferably from 0.5 wt.% up to 3 wt.%.

Preferred what is the mass ratio of urea to the generator hydroxide from 20:1 to 2:1, more preferably from 12:1 to 3:1.

Other components

It is preferable if the composition is water-based. Particularly preferred are the main composition that includes an emulsion of oil in water.

Other components that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be selected from solvents such as alcohol and water; preservatives; perfumes; UV filters; active agents for hair care; plasticizers; anionic, cationogenic, amphoteric, nonionic and zwitterionic surface-active agents; agents, conditioning the hair, such as silicone fluids, esters of fatty acids, fatty alcohols, hydrocarbons, fatty series, softeners, lubricants and penetrating substances such as compounds of lanolin, protein hydrolysates and other protein derivatives; anionic, cationogenic, amphoteric, nonionic and zwitterionic polymers; dyes; coloring means; bleaching agents; reducing agents; agents regulating pH; sun filters and thickeners.

The products according to the invention may additionally include organic nucleophiles selected from basic amino acids such as lysine, amines, alcohols, and mercaptans and their derivatives. Ionic forms (such as lysine) and/or in the form of their derivatives, for example, ammonia is Orme (such as lysine hydrochloride) and/or carboxylate form (such as lisinac sodium).

The preferred form of the product is a cream.

In one aspect of the product is in the form of a set consisting of two parts. The first part includes hydroxide components and preferably made in the form of a cream. The second part includes urea/additive urea-based and can be in the form of liquid or in solid form. Urea/additive on the basis of urea may be used or in the form of the active substance without impurities, or in the form of a diluted suspension, dispersion or solution. Two parts of set mixed just before application to the hair. In the context of the present invention, the term "directly before application" means about 5 minutes or less before application.

Hereinafter the invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. Examples according to the invention is marked with the numbers, examples of the comparison are indicated by letters.

- Raspryamlyaetsya composition with 2% hydroxide.

/tr>
Ingredient Trademark Provider An example of a wt.%
Pet Jelly erfecta Crompton 15
Mineral oil 65/75 65/75 Grade ex GTC 20
Clearily alcohol & PEG 20 stearate Polawax GP200* Croda 3
Clearily alcohol Laurex CS Hunstman 4
Sodium EDTA Sigma-Aldrich 0,1
Polysorbate 60 Tween 60 Uniqema 2
PEG-75 lanolin Solan E Pellets Croda of 0.625
Propylene glycol Sigma-Aldrich 5
NaOH Sigma-Aldrich 2
Water to 100 wt.%
*Polawax GP 20 is a mixture of PEG-20 stearate and clearimage alcohol in a ratio of 1 to 4.

Table 2
Ingredient Ave. 1 PR Ave. 3 Ave. In
Pet Jelly 15 15 15 15
Mineral oil 20 20 20 20
Polawax GP200 3 3 3 3
Laurex CS 4 4 4 4
Sodium EDTA 0,1 0,1 0,1 0,1
Tween 60 2 2 2 2
Granules Solan E of 0.625 of 0.625 of 0.625 of 0.625
Propylene glycol 5 5 5 5
NaOH 1,5 1,5 1,5 1,5
Urea 8 5 10 0
Water 100 100 100 100

Set of strands of hair were treated espressodom cream containing 2% of sodium hydroxide (Example A), the second set of strands was treated with 1.5% sodium hydroxide and 8% urea. Strands were processed sequentially only 4 of the application. Each cycle consisted of processing espressodom cream in 20-30 minutes, rinsing, shampooing and drying by soaking. After the fourth application of the strands were left to dry over night (18 hours) under controlled conditions of 25°C and 50% relative humidity.

Weight was registered strands. The strands were placed in the automatic rassasivayushee device and subjected to total 6 hours of dry brushing, p is after each hour recorded the mass of each clump.

The percentage of breakage was calculated as: weight at a given point in time/initial weight × 100.

Time combing
Watch
Breaking %
Example a Example 1
0 0 0
1 1,25 0,75
2 2,5 1,0
3 3,0 1,75
4 4,0 2,0
5 5,0 2,5
6 6,0 2,75

Data on straightening was estimated as the mean absolute curvature (mm-1) hair. The greater the curvature the more curly hair.

Thus, it is shown that urea increases the efficiency raspyalaya system based hydroxide while reducing the damage caused by hydroxide.

p> 1. Composition for hair straightening, water-based, having a pH from 12 to 14, including
i) the generator of the hydroxide ion selected from the group consisting of lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide and sodium hydroxide; and
ii) from 0.5 to 20 wt.% urea of the total composition, where the ratio by weight of urea to the generator hydroxide ion is from 12:1 to 3:1.

2. Composition for hair straightening according to claim 1, in which the generator is the hydroxide ion is a sodium hydroxide.

3. Composition for hair straightening according to claim 1, in which the content of the compound (ii) is in the range from 1 to 15 wt.% from the whole composition.

4. Composition for hair straightening according to claim 1, in which the content generator hydroxide ion is in the range from 0.5 to 3 wt.% from the whole composition.

5. How Latinization keratin fibers to achieve straightening these keratin fibers, in which a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 is applied to the hair.

 

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