Composition for treatment of keratin material comprising associative cationic polyurethane polymer and protective component or component with conditioning effect

FIELD: cosmetics.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to a composition used for treatment of keratin fibers, in particular, hair. The composition comprises associative polyurethane polymer and protective component or component with conditioning effect in cosmetically acceptable medium. Also, invention relates to a method for treatment of keratin fibers with the proposed composition. Invention provides improving hair applying with protective component or component with conditioning effect and their cosmetic properties also.

EFFECT: improved and valuable properties of composition.

37 cl, 4 ex

The invention relates to compositions for treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers in humans, such as the hair, containing, in a physiologically and in particular cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one protective component or a component with a conditioning effect, and, in addition, at least one specific cationic associative polyurethane polymer.

The above combination can improve the protective coating component or a component with a conditioning effect keratin materials, as well as their cosmetic properties.

It is well known that hair in varying degrees damaged or weakened under the influence of atmospheric agents, in particular, light, water and moisture, as well as under repeated impact of various hair treatments such as washing, perming, straightening, colouring, bleaching. Numerous publications have reported that natural light destroys some amino acids of the hair. The above-mentioned effects, changing the hair fiber, degrade the mechanical properties such as tensile strength, breaking strength and elasticity, or their resistance to swelling in an aqueous environment. In this case, the hair becomes dull, hard and brittle. Hair, in contrast to the skin, lighten.

It is also known that, in particular, the light and audie funds tend to change the natural hair color, and artificial color-treated hair. Hair color gradually weakens or changes color in the direction of little aesthetic or unwanted shades.

For many years in the cosmetic industry searching for substances that help protect hair from damage caused by exposure to atmospheric agents such as light and heat, and various kinds of processing.

In particular, there is a search for substances that protect color naturally dyed or artificially dyed keratin fibers and preserves or enhances the mechanical properties inherent to the keratin fibers (tensile strength, breaking strength and elasticity, or their resistance to swelling in an aqueous environment).

To combat the above-mentioned damage to the keratin of the hair has already been proposed to use certain substances capable of filtering light radiation, such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid or its salts (FR-A-2627085) or 4-(2-oxo-3-barelydigital)benzolsulfonat acid or its salts (EP-A-329032), and lactoferrin (FR-A-2673839).

However, these filters are only effective when they are present in significant concentrations. Or, in these concentrations, the hair treated with the specified filters to the touch become hard and charged. In addition, their combing one is camping extremely difficult.

It has already been recommended to use in cosmetic compositions for washing keratin materials, or for the care of keratin materials such as hair components with conditioning effect, in particular, cationic polymer or organosilicon compounds, to facilitate the combing of the hair and make them soft and flexible. However, cosmetic advantages mentioned before this, unfortunately, also accompanied, on dry hair, some cosmetic effects that are considered undesirable, namely, weighting hairstyles (loss easy hairstyles), loss of smoothness (uneven hair from the root to the top).

In addition, the use of cationic polymers for this purpose is different inconveniences. Because of their high affinity for the hair, some of these polymers with repeated applications are deposited in large quantities and lead to undesirable effects such as discomfort and charge to the touch, stiffness of the hair and the adhesion between the hair influencing the combing. These inconveniences are particularly pronounced in the case of fine hair, which lose tone and volume.

It is well known that hair that were in varying degrees sensitized (i.e. damaged and/or weakened under the influence of atmospheric agents or under who is esteem mechanical or chemical treatments, such as dyeing, bleaching and/or iron, are often difficult to comb and combs and lose their softness.

In the end, it turned out that modern cosmetic compositions containing protective components or components with a conditioning effect, do not give fully satisfactory results.

Now, the applicant has found that a combination of specific cationic associative polyurethane protective components, or components with conditioning effect eliminates these inconveniences.

So, as a result of considerable research carried out on this issue, the applicant has found that by introducing a special polymer in the composition, in particular in compositions for hair, component-based, protecting or conditioning effect on keratin materials, you can increase the deposition of components, protecting or conditioning effect on keratin materials, and thereby increase the protective action or conditioning effect. In addition, the distribution of the compositions when applied to keratin materials becomes easier and more evenly. The coating is more uniform, as well as efficiency.

Without wishing to limit the present invention to any one theory, it appears that p and rinsing, there are specific interactions and/or a special affinity between component protecting or conditioning effect on keratin materials, polyurethane polymers according to the invention and hair that favor uniform, notable and solid deposition of the above-mentioned components, protecting or conditioning effect on keratin materials, on the surface of the above-mentioned hair, and qualitative and quantitative deposition is probably one of the reasons for the improvement in the final properties, in particular, ease of combing, save the form, tone and volume treated hair.

All these discoveries are the basis of the present invention.

Thus, according to the present invention proposed a new cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically and in particular cosmetically acceptable medium at least one component providing protective or conditioning effect on keratin materials, and at least one cationic associative polyurethane of formula (I)below,

with the exception of compositions for the direct dyeing of keratin fibres, containing in an environment suitable for dyeing, at least one direct dye and at least one cationic associative polyurethane of formula (I),

with the exception of compositions for oxidative dyeing Kera is inovah fibers, containing environment, adapted for dyeing, at least one oxidation dye and at least one cationic associative polyurethane of formula (I),

with the exception of ready-to-use composition for bleaching keratin fibers, containing in an environment suitable for bleaching, at least one oxidizer and at least one cationic associative polyurethane of formula (I),

with the exception of ready-to-use composition for bleaching or changing the shape of keratin fibers, containing in an environment suitable for bleaching, at least one reducing agent and at least one cationic associative polyurethane of formula (I).

Another subject of the invention concerns the use of at least one cationic associative polyurethane of formula (I) in the cosmetic composition or obtaining a cosmetic composition containing the component, protecting or conditioning effect on keratin materials.

Similarly, the subject invention is the use of at least one cationic associative polyurethane of formula (I) in the cosmetic composition containing the component, providing a protective effect on keratin materials, to increase the efficiency of the above-mentioned component, providing for itoe or conditioning effect on keratin materials.

The object of the present invention is also the use of at least one cationic associative polyurethane of formula (I) in the cosmetic composition containing the component, protecting or conditioning effect on keratin materials, to improve the deposition and/or fixing the above-mentioned protective component on the keratin materials.

Now various objects of the invention will be detailed. A set of values and definitions of the compounds used in the present invention, given below are valid for the totality of the objects of the invention.

Polymers capable of reversibly to communicate with each other or with other molecules, resulting in thickening, called "associative polymers". This physical Association leads to a thixotropic or regatiruemyh macromolecular systems, i.e. systems whose viscosity depends on the shear stresses to which they are exposed.

The effective strength of the interaction can be of various nature, for example, electrostatic nature, type hydrogen bonds or hydrophobic interactions.

A special case of associative polymers are amphiphilic polymers, i.e. polymers containing one or more hydrophilic areas, which make them soluble in water, the one or more hydrophobic areas, whereby the polymers interact and connect with each other or with other molecules.

Their chemical structure comprises at least one hydrophilic segment and at least one hydrophobic region, while the hydrophobic phase or hydrophobic areas contain at least one fatty chain containing, in particular at least 10 carbon atoms and preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

The family of associative amphiphilic cationic polymers according to the invention represented by the following General formula (I):

in which:

R and R', identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;

X and X', equal or different, denote a group containing an amino group, bearing or not bearing a hydrophobic group, or a group L";

L, L' and L"are the same or different, represent a group derived from diisocyanate;

R and R', identical or different, denote a group containing an amino group, bearing or not bearing a hydrophobic group;

Y represents a hydrophilic group;

r denotes an integer in the range from 1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 50 and in particular from 1 to 25;

n, m and p each independently of the other, taking values from 0 to 1000;

when this molecule contains at least one protonated Il is quaternion the amino group and at least one hydrophobic group.

In a preferred embodiment, receiving the polyurethanes according to the present invention, the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R' on the ends of the chain.

A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes according to the present invention is the collection corresponding to the formula (I)above in which:

R and R'both independently represent a hydrophobic group;

X and X'each represent a group L";

n and p take values from 1 to 1000, and

L, L', L', R, R', Y and m have the meanings specified above.

Another family of cationic associative polyurethanes according to the present invention is the collection corresponding to the formula (I)above in which R and R'both independently represent a hydrophobic group; X and X'each represent a group L", n and p take the value 0, and L, I', L", Y and m have the meanings specified above.

The fact that n and p are equal to 0, means that these polymers do not contain units derived from the monomer with the amino group included in the polymer by the polycondensation. Protonated amino group data polyurethanes are formed by hydrolysis of the isocyanate groups are in excess, at the end of the chain, and subsequent alkylation of the resulting primary amine groups alkylating agents with a hydrophobic group, i.e. compounds of the type RQ or R Q, where R and R ', such as defined above, and Q denotes the deleted group, such as halide, sulfate, etc.

Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes according to the present invention is the collection corresponding to the formula (I)above in which:

R and R'both independently represent a hydrophobic group;

X and X'both independently represent a group containing a Quaternary amino group;

n and p are zero, and

L, L', Y and m have the meanings specified above.

Brednikova molecular weight associative amphiphilic cationic polyurethanes according to the invention is preferably in the range from 400 to 500,000, in particular from 1000 to 400,000 and, ideally, from 1000 to 300000.

Under hydrophobic group mean a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N, S, or a radical with perfluorinated or silicone chain. When it denotes a hydrocarbon radical, the hydrophobic group contains at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and, more preferably, from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, a hydrophobic hydrocarbon group is derived from monopo tsionaljnogo connection.

As an example, the hydrophobic group may occur from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyloxy alcohol, decroly alcohol. Similarly, the hydrophobic group may be a hydrocarbon polymer, such as, for example, polybutadiene.

When X and/or X' denote a group containing a tertiary or Quaternary amine, X and/or X' can answer one of the following formulas:

in which:

R₂means alkilinity radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, containing or not containing a saturated or unsaturated cycle or Allenby radical, where one or more carbon atoms can be replaced by a heteroatom selected among N, S, O, R;

R₁and R₃identical or different, denote a (C₁-C₃₀) alkyl or (C₁-C₃₀) alkenyl, linear or branched, or aryl, one or more carbon atoms can be replaced by a heteroatom selected among N, S, O, R;

And^-represents a physiologically acceptable counterion.

The groups L, L' and L" represent a group of the formula:

in which:

Z represents-O-, -S - or-NH-, and

R₄means alkilinity radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or rasvet the military, or not containing saturated or unsaturated cycle, Allenby radical, where one or more carbon atoms can be replaced by a heteroatom selected among N, S, O and P.

Groups R and R'containing the amino group, can answer at least one of the following formulas:

in which:

R₅and R₇have the same values that R₂₁defined before this;

R₆, R₈and R₉have the same values that R₁and R₃defined before this;

R₁₀means alkylenes group, linear or branched, in certain cases, unsaturated, which can contain one or more heteroatoms selected among N, O, S and P, and

And^-represents a physiologically acceptable counterion.

As for the value of Y, then under hydrophilic group mean water-soluble group, a polymer or neprimerno.

As an example, when a water-soluble group is a polymeric group include ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

When, according to the preferred method of implementation, a water-soluble group is a hydrophilic polymer, as examples, polyethers, polyesters su is honowai acid, polyamides sulfonic acid or mixtures of these polymers. As the preferred option hydrophilic compound is a simple polyester, in particular, poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

Associative amphiphilic cationic polyurethanes of the formula I according to the invention receives, from diisocyanates and from various compounds containing functional groups with a labile hydrogen. Functional groups with a labile hydrogen may be an alcohol group, a primary or secondary amino group or tirinya group, giving, after reaction with diisocyanate groups, respectively, polyurethanes, polycarbamide and politicalparty. The term "polyurethanes", selected for designation of new associative polymers according to the invention combines these three types of polymers, namely, the actual polyurethane, polycarbamide and politicalparty, and their copolymers.

The first type of compounds involved in obtaining the polymer of formula I according to the invention, is a compound containing at least one link with the amino group. This compound may be multifunctional, but, preferably, it is difunctional, i.e. according to a preferred variant implementation of this compound contains two labile hydrogen atom, include the data for example, a hydroxyl group, primary amino group, secondary amino group or Tilney group. Similarly, you can use a mixture of polyfunctional and difunctional compounds, in which the percentage of polyfunctional compounds is low.

As noted above, this connection may contain more than one link with the amino group. In this case, it is a polymer containing the repeating unit with the amino group.

This type of compounds can be represented by one of the following formulas:

in which Z, R, R', n and p are as defined above.

As examples of compounds with amino group can be called N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine, N-sulfoaildenafil.

A second connection involved in obtaining the polymer of formula I according to the invention, is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula:

O=C=N-R₄-N=C=O

in which R₄defined above.

As an example we can mention methylenedianiline, methyltrichlorosilane, isophorondiisocyanate, colorvision, naphthalenedisulfonate, potentisation, exanguination.

The third compound involved in obtaining the polymer of formula I according to the invention, is the Wallpaper hydrophobic compound, designed for the formation of hydrophobic end groups of the polymer of formula I.

This connection consists of a hydrophobic group and a functional group with a labile hydrogen, for example, hydroxyl groups, primary or secondary amino group or Tilney group.

As an example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol, such as, in particular, stearyl alcohol, dodecyloxy alcohol, decroly alcohol. When this compound contains the polymer chain, it can represent, for example, hydrogenated polybutadiene with hydroxyl group.

The hydrophobic group of the compounds of formula I according to the invention, similarly, can be obtained by quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine compounds containing at least one link of the tertiary amine. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced with quaternized agent. Mentioned quaternity agent is a compound of the type RQ or RQ', in which R and R', such as defined above, and Q denotes the deleted group, such as halide, sulfate, etc.

Associative amphiphilic cationic polymer according to the invention, furthermore, may contain hydrophilic link. This link is supplied by the connection of the fourth type, involved in the production of polymer. The mentioned connection mo is et to be multifunctional. Preferably, it is difunctional. Similarly, you can use a mixture in which the percentage of polyfunctional compounds is low.

Functional groups with a labile hydrogen may be an alcohol group, a primary or secondary amino group or Tilney group. The above compound may be a polymer, having at the ends of the chains of one of the above functional groups with a labile hydrogen.

As an example, when this connection is not a polymer include ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

When it is a hydrophilic polymer, as examples, polyether sulfonic acid, polyamides sulfonic acid or a mixture of these polymers. As the preferred option hydrophilic compound is a simple polyester, in particular polyethylene oxide or polypropyleneoxide.

The polymer obtained, based on the compounds described above, is an associative amphiphilic cationic polymer of formula I according to the present invention. This polymer is soluble or dispersible in water and greatly increases the viscosity of an aqueous solution in which it is dissolved or dispersed.

Hydrophilic group denoted by Y in the formula I, is optional. In fact, the links with Quaternary or protonated amino group may be sufficient to impart solubility and ability to dispersion in water, is necessary for this type of polymer in aqueous solution.

Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional, preferred, however, associative amphiphilic cationic polyurethanes containing such a group.

Cationic polyurethanes according to the invention are preferably water-soluble or dispersible in water.

The term "water-soluble" or "water soluble"related associative polyurethanes of the present invention, means that these polymers have a solubility in water at room temperature at least equal to 1 wt.%, this means that up to a given concentration of any precipitate cannot be detected nevoorujennim eye and the solution is completely transparent and homogeneous.

Under "hydrodispersion or dispersible in water" polyurethanes mean polymers that, when suspendirovanie in water spontaneously form globules with an average size measured by light scattering on the device type Coulter (Coulter)in the range from 5 nm to 600 nm and in particular from 5 nm to 500 nm.

Cationic associative polyurethanes used the Ute, preferably, in an amount which may range from 0.01 to 10 wt.% from the total mass of the composition for treatment of keratin materials. More specifically, this amount is from about 0.1 to 5 wt.%.

Protective components for keratin materials can be any of the active ingredients used to prevent or limit damage resulting from physical or chemical effects.

Thus, the protective component for keratin materials may be selected from among UV filters, agents against free radicals, antioxidants, vitamins, provitamins, complexing agents.

UV filters (to filter UV radiation) is chosen, in particular, among the water-soluble or fat-soluble filters, silicon or silicon -, and nanoparticles of inorganic oxides, the surface of which if necessary has been treated to make it hydrophilic or hydrophobic.

Water-soluble UV-filters can be selected among, for example, p-aminobenzoic acid and its salts Anthranilic acid and its salts, salicylic acid and its salts, p-hydroxycortisol acid and its salts, sulfadiazine Benz-x-azole (benzothiazole, benzimidazole, benzoxazole) and their salts, sulfadiazine benzophenone and their salts, Sul is aprosodia benzylideneacetone and their salts, derivatives benzylideneacetone, substituted Quaternary amine, and salts, derivatives talibancontrolled acids and their salts, sulfadiazine benzotriazole.

You can also use hydrophilic polymers having, in addition, by their chemical nature light shielding properties against UV radiation. You can call the polymers containing benzylideneamino group and/or benzotryazolyl group substituted by sulfo or Quaternary ammonium groups.

As liposoluble (or lipophilic) UV filters suitable for use in the present invention, it is possible, in particular, include: derivatives of p-aminobenzoic acid, such as esters or amides of p-aminobenzoic acid; salicylic acid derivatives such as esters; derivatives of benzophenone, derivatives dibenzoylmethane; derivatives diphenylacetate; derivatives benzofuranol; polymeric UV filters containing one or more organosilicon residues; esters of cinnamic acid; camphor derivatives; derivatives of trainline-s-triazine; complex ethyl ester Eurocasinobet acid; benzotriazole; derivatives hydroxyphenyltriazine; basresetconnectionstring; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, liposoluble (or lipophilic) UV filter selected from among: Octel is salicilate; 4-tert-butyl-4' -methoxydibenzoylmethane (PARSOL 1789 company GIVAUDAN); octocrylene; 2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate (PARSOL MCX) and compounds of the following formula (II) or 2-(2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6-[2-methyl-3-[1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-(trimethylsilyl)oxy]disiloxanyl]PROPYNYL]phenol, as described in European patent application EP-A-0392883:

Other UV filters, especially preferred according to the invention are derivatives of benzophenone, such as UVINIL 40 MS (2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-acid) and UVINIL M40 (2-hydroxy-4˜methoxybenzophenone)supplied by BASF, derivatives benzylmalonate, such as PARSOL SLX (polydimethyl/methyl(3-(4-(2,2-biotoxicological)phenoxy)propenyl)siloxane)supplied by the company GIVAUDAN-ROURE, derived benzylideneacetone, such as MEXOPRYL SX (1,4-divinylbenzene(b-b^')camphorsulfonic acid), manufactured by the company CHIMEX, benzimidazole derivatives, such as EUSOLEX 232 (2-phenylbenzimidazol-5-acid)supplied by MERCK.

The inorganic oxides can be selected from among titanium oxide, zinc oxide and oxides of cerium.

Antioxidants and/or agents against free radicals chosen, in particular, among the phenols, such as BGA (4-tert-butylhydroxyanisole), BMC (2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol), TBGH (tert-butylhydroquinone), polyphenols such as Proa is tozanidine oligomers and flavonoids, sterically obstructed amines, known under the General term of SSA (Light on the basis of Steric Obstruction amine) (HALS (Hindered Amine Light Stabilizer), such as tetraaminopyrimidine, erythropenia acid, polyamines such as spermine, cysteine, glutathione, superoxide dismutase, lactoferrin.

Vitamins are chosen, in particular, among ascorbic acid, vitamin E acetate vitamin E, b vitamins, such as vitamins B3 and B5, vitamin PP, vitamin a and its derivatives.

Provitamins choose, in particular, among panthenol and retinol.

The complexing agents choose, in particular, among DEQUEST, such as diethylenetriaminepentaacetate acid and diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid and their salts, etc (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) and its salts, in particular sodium or potassium.

According to the invention the protective component or protective components for keratin materials can comprise from 0.001% to 20 wt.%, preferably, from 0.01% to 10 wt.% and, more specifically, from 0.1% to 5 wt.% in relation to the total weight of the final composition.

In the scope of this application under the component with conditioning effect mean any component whose function is to improve the cosmetic properties of the hair, in particular, softness, raschesyvaemost, tactile properties, static electricity is STV.

Components with conditioning effect can be in liquid, semi-liquid or solid forms, such as, for example, oils, waxes or resins.

According to the invention components with conditioning effect can be selected from among synthetic oils such as polyolefins, mineral oils, vegetable oils, fluorinated or perfluorinated oils, natural or synthetic waxes, silicone compounds, cationic polymers, compounds of ceramide type, cationic surfactants, fatty amines, fatty acids and their derivatives, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, and mixtures of these different compounds.

Preferred components with conditioning effect according to the invention are cationic polymers and silicone compounds.

Synthetic oils are, in particular, polyolefins, in particular, poly-α-olefins and, more specifically, the following:

- type of polybutylene, hydrogenated or negidrirovannogo, and preferably polyisobutylene, hydrogenated or negitively.

Preferably, use oligomers of isobutylene with molecular weight less than 1000 and mixtures thereof with polyisobutylenes with a molecular weight greater than 1000, and preferably in the range from 1000 to 15000.

As the e examples of poly-α -olefins used in the scope of the present invention can more specifically be mentioned polyisobutylene, sold under the name PERMETHYL 99 A, 101 A, 102 A, 104 A (n=16) and 106 A (n=38) by the company PRESPERSE Inc., or the products sold under the name ARLAMOL HD (n=3) by the company ICI (n denotes the degree of polymerization).

- type polydecene, hydrogenated or negidrirovannogo.

Such products are, for example, under the name ETHYLFLO firm ETHYL CORP. and ARLAMOL PAO by the company ICI.

Mineral oil, which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, are selected, preferably, from the group formed by:

- hydrocarbons, such as hexadecane and paraffin oil.

Animal or vegetable oil is chosen, preferably, from the group formed sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, butter str, pumpkin oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, fish oil, glyceryltrinitrate, or vegetable or animal oils of formula R₉COOR₁₀in which R₉denotes the residue of higher fatty acid containing from 7 to 9 carbon atoms, and R₁₀is a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular alkyl or alkenyl, for example, Porcellino oil or liquid wax str.

Waxes are natural (animal or vegetable) or synthetic substance that is solid at room temperature (20°25°). They are insoluble in water, soluble in oils and are capable of forming water-repellent film.

On the definition of waxes include, for example, P.D.Dorgan, Drug and Cosmetic Industry, December 1983, pp.30-33.

The wax or waxes chosen, in particular, among Carnauba wax, candelilla wax, wax alpha, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as beeswax olive, rice wax, hydrogenated wax str, or absolute flower waxes, such as floral wax of blackcurrant, manufactured by the company BERTIN (France), waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, waxes or modified bee wax (terebellida); other waxes or waxy materials, which can be used according to the invention, p is establet a, in particular, marine waxes such as beeswax, produced by the company SOPHIM under the number m, polyethylene wax or even polyolefin waxes.

Components with conditioning effect of the type of cationic polymers used according to the present invention, can be selected among all the cationic polymers which themselves are already known as improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, namely, in particular, cationic polymers described in European patent application EP-A-0337354 and in French patent applications FR-A-2270846, 2383660, 2598611, 2470596 and 2519863.

In more General terms, from the point of view of the present invention, the expression "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups ionized with the formation of cationic groups.

Preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units having the structure of primary, secondary, tertiary and/or Quaternary amino groups, which either form part of the main polymer chain, or part of a side substituent directly connected with it.

Commonly used cationic polymers have srednecenovogo molecular weight in the range from about 500 to 5·10⁶preferably, in the range from about 10³up to 3·10sup> 6.

Among the cationic polymers can more specifically be called polymers type polyamine, polyaminoamide and Quaternary of polyamine. They are known products.

Polymers of the type polyamine, polyaminoamide and Quaternary of polyamine used according to the present invention, which in particular may be mentioned are polymers described in French patents 2505348 or 2542997. Among the above polymers include polymers.

(1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from esters or amides of acrylic or methacrylic acid containing at least one of the links of the following formulas:

in which:

R₃identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or the radical CH₃;

And, identical or different, denote an alkyl group, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

R₄, R₅, R₆identical or different, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or benzyl, and preferably, the alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

R₁and R₂identical or different, denote hydrogen or al the ilen group, containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably methyl or ethyl group;

X denotes the anion of an inorganic or organic acid, such as anion methosulfate or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1), in addition, may contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen collection acrylamido, methacrylamido, diacetonitrile, acrylamido and methacrylamido, substituted at the nitrogen atom of the lower (C₁-C₄)alkilani, acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinylacetate, such as vinyl pyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

Thus, among the above-mentioned copolymers of family (1) can be called:

copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, quaternionic dimethylsulfate or dimethylselenide, such as the copolymer, sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES;

copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane described, for example, in European patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY;

copolymer of acrylamide and methosulfate of methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane produced podravanje RETEN by the company HERCULES;

copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and dialkylaminoalkyl or dialkyl is incalculability, quaternion or nekvotirovannoe, such as the products marketed under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP, such as, for example, "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755", or to the products, called "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937"; these polymers are described in French patents 2077143 and 2393573;

triple copolymers dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, vinylcaprolactam and vinylpyrrolidone, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP;

copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and methacrylamidoethylene supplied, in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP company;

- and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and quaternionic of dimethylaminopropionitrile, such as the product marketed under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP.

(2) simple Derivatives of cellulose ethers containing Quaternary ammonium groups, described in French patent 1492597, and, in particular, polymers supplied under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the company Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are equally defined in the CTFA dictionary as Quaternary ammonium derivatives of hydroxyethyl cellulose reacted with an epoxy compound, substituted trimethylammonio group.

(3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as copolymers of cellulose or cellulose derivatives grafted water-soluble monomer of Quaternary ammonium, and described the data, in particular, in the American patent US 4131576, such as hydroxyethylcellulose as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl - or hydroxypropylcellulose, grafted, in particular, the salt of methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, methacrylamidoethylene or dimethyldiallylammonium.

Industrial products corresponding to this definition are, in particular, the products sold under the name "CELQUAT L 200" and "CELQUAT H 100" by the company NATIONAL STARCH.

(4) the Cationic polysaccharides described more specifically in U.S. patents US 3589578 and 4031307, such as guar gums containing trialkylamines cationic group. Use, for example, guar gums modified with a salt (e.g. chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium.

Such products are delivered, in particular under the trade names JAGUAR 13 S, JAGUAR 15, JAGUAR 17 or JAGUAR WITH 162 by the company MEYHALL.

(5) Polymers consisting of piperazinilnom links and divalent alkilinity or hydroxyalkylated radicals, straight or branched chain, in some cases, atoms interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic cycles and heterocycles, as well as the products of oxidation and/or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2162025 and 2280361.

(6) water-Soluble polyaminoamide obtained, in particular, p is secondarily acid compounds with polyamines; data polyaminoamide can be sewn through epichlorhydrine, diepoxybutane, dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, binnensysteme derived, bangaloreindia, bissetiana, bangalorian, bisacylated or through an oligomer resulting from the reaction of bifunctional compounds reactive towards bangalorean, bissecting, bangalorian, bisalkylphenol, epichlorhydrine, diepoxybutane or Bananarama derivative; the crosslinking agent is used in amounts comprising from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amino group polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamide can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amino groups, Quaternary. Such polymers are described in particular in French patents 2252840 and 2368508.

(7) Derivative polyaminoamide obtained by condensation of polyalkyleneglycol with polycarboxylic acids and subsequent alkylation with bifunctional agents. Can be called, for example, polymers based on adipic acid and dialkylaminoalkylsubstituted, in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and is preferably methyl, ethyl, propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French is utente 1583363.

Among these derivatives can more specifically be called the polymers of the composition of the adipic acid/dimethylaminoisopropyl/Diethylenetriamine, marketed under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.

(8) Polymers obtained by reaction of polyallylamine containing two primary amino groups and at least one secondary amino group, with a dicarboxylic acid chosen among diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. When this molar ratio between polyalkyleneglycol and the dicarboxylic acid ranges from 0.8:1 to 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide enter into reaction with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin/secondary amino group polyaminoamide being in the range from 0.5:1 to 1.8:1. Such polymers are described in particular in U.S. patents 3227615 and 2961347.

Polymers of this type are supplied, in particular under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the copolymer of adipic acid/epoxypropyl/Diethylenetriamine.

(9) Cyclopolymer of alkyldiethanolamine or dialkyldimethylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing as a main component circuit units corresponding to formula (VI) or (VI'):

in which k and t is any 0 or 1, the sum k+t being equal to 1; R₁₂denotes a hydrogen atom or methyl; R₁₀and R₁₁, independently of one another, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group contains preferably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, lower amido (C₁-C₄) alkyl group, or R₁₀and R₁₁can denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y^-denotes an anion, such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French patent 2080759 and additional evidence 2190406.

Preferably, R₁₀and R₁₁, independently of one another, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Among the polymers defined above, can be called, more specifically, a homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium, marketed under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Calgon (and its homologues of low mass-average molecular mass) and copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium and acrylamide supplied under the name "Merquat 550".

(10) the Polymer of Quaternary diammonium containing recurring units corresponding to the formula (VII):

in which:

R₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅and R₁₆identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, or lower hydroxyacylglutathione radicals, or R₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅and R₁₆together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are linked, a heterocycle containing, in certain cases, a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R₁₃, R₁₄, R₁₅and R₁₆denote linear or branched (C₁-C₆) alkyl, substituted nitrile, ester, acyl, amide group or a group-CO-O-R₁₇-D or-CO-NH-R₁₇-D, in which R₁₇denotes alkylene, and D denotes a Quaternary ammonium group;

A₁and B₁denote polymethene group containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain related to the main chain or incorporated into the main chain, one or more aromatic cycles, or one or more oxygen atoms, sulfur or one or more groups such as sulfoxide, sulfonic, disulfide amino group, alkylamino, hydroxyl, Quaternary ammonium, raidgroup, amide or ester, and

X^-seat the o anion of an inorganic or organic acid;

A₁, R₁₃and R₁₅can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are linked, pieperazinove cycle; in addition, if A₁means alkalinity or hydroxyalkyloxy radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, B₁may, similarly, to denote the group (CH₂)_n-CO-D-OC-(CH₂)_n-, in which D denotes:

a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, or a group that meets one of the following formulas:

(CH₂-CH₂-O)_x-CH₂-CH₂-

[CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O]_y-CH₂-CH(CH₃),

where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

b) the balance bistaratzeko diamine such as piperazine derivative;

C) the balance bespelling diamine of the formula-NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or the divalent radical

-CH₂-CH₂-S-S-CH₂-CH₂-;

g) ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-;

preferably, X^-represents an anion, such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers have srednecenovogo molecular weight, composing the Yu is usually from 1000 to 100000.

The polymers of the specified type are described in particular in French patents 2320330, 2270846, 2316271, 2336434 and 2413907 in the American patent US 2273780, 2375853, 2388614, 2454547, 3206462, 2261002, 2271378, 3874870, 4001432, 3929990, 3966904, 4005193, 4025617, 4025627, 4025653, 4026945 and 4027020.

More specifically, it is possible to use polymers consisting of repeating units corresponding to the formula:

in which R₁, R₂, R₃and R₄identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl containing from about 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers from about 2 to 20 and X^-denotes the anion of an inorganic or organic acid.

Especially preferred compound of formula (a) is the connection for which R₁, R₂, R₃and R₄are methyl and n=3, p=6 and X=Cl, called, according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA), hexadimethrine (Hexadimethrine).

(11) Quaternary Polymers of polyamine consisting of units of formula (VIII):

in which:

R₁₈, R₁₉, R₂₀and R₂₁identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or-CH₂CH₂(OCH₂CH₂)_pHE

where p is 0 or an integer in the range from 1 to 6, provided that R₁₈, R₁₉, R 20and R₂₁do not simultaneously denote a hydrogen atom,

r and s are identical or different, represent integers in the range from 1 to 6,

q is 0 or an integer in the range from 1 to 34,

X^-denotes an anion, such as halide,

And denotes the radical of dihalogenide or preferably represents a group-CH₂-CH₂-O-CH₂-CH₂-.

Such polymers are described in particular in European patent application EP-A-122324.

These include, for example, the products "MIRAPOL® AND 15", "MIRAPOL® AD1", "MIRAPOL® AZ1" and "MIRAPOL® 175", manufactured by the company Miranol.

(12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, such as, for example, the products provided under the names LUVIQUAT® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F.

(13) Polyamine, such as POLYQUART® N, manufactured by HENKEL, referred to in the CTFA dictionary under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE".

(14) Crosslinked polymers of salts of methacryloyloxy (C₁-C₄) alkyl (C₁-C₄)trialkylamine, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, quaternionic with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate, quaternions the methyl chloride, and after homopolymerization or copolymerization followed by crosslinking using unsaturated compounds with alafinova the connection, in particular, methylenebisacrylamide. More specifically, you can use cross-linked copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane (20/80 by mass) in the form of a dispersion containing 50 wt.% the above-mentioned copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS. Similarly, you can use cross-linked homopolymer of methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane containing approximately 50 wt.% homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ether complex. These dispersions are supplied under the name "SALCARE® SC 95 and SALCARE® SC 96" by the company ALLIED COLLOIDS.

Other cationic polymers used in the scope of the invention are cationic proteins or products of hydrolysis of cationic proteins, polyalkylimide, in particular, polyethylenimine, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium links, condensation products of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, Quaternary polyarylene and derivatives of chitin.

Among all the cationic polymers that may be used in the scope of the present invention, it is preferable to use Quaternary derivatives of simple cellulose ether, such as the products marketed under the name "JR 400" by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cationic cyclopolymer, in particular, homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyl what allylammonium, manufactured under the names "MERQUAT 100", "MERQUAT 550" and "MERQUAT S" by the company CALGON, Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, and mixtures thereof.

Organosilicon compounds used according to the invention are, in particular, polyorganosiloxanes that are insoluble in the composition, and may be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or rubbers.

Polyorganosiloxanes defined in more detail in the monograph by Walter Noll "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, silicone compounds, more specifically, chosen among those which have a boiling point component from the 60°With up to 260°S, and even more specifically, among:

(i) cyclic organosilicon compounds containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. This connection can be, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane supplied, in particular under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by the company UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by the company RHONE POULENC, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane supplied under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by the company UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by the company RHONE POULENC, and mixtures thereof.

Similarly, you can call cyclosporine type dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylcyclenes, such as "SILICONE VOLATILE FZ 3109"supplied by the company UNION CARBIDE, the chemical structure:

May also be called a mixture of cyclic organosilicon compounds with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetrathiotetracene (50/50) and the mixture octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and hydroxy-1,1'[2,2,2',2',3,3'-extremelylarge)lineamenta;

(ii) volatile linear organosilicon compounds containing from 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity equal to or less than 5·10^-6m²/c at 25°C. Such a connection can be, for example, decamethylpentasiloxane, in particular, comes under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE. Organosilicon compounds included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries. Vol. 91, Jan. 76, r.27-32-TODD&BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

Preferably, use of non-volatile organosilicon compounds and, more specifically, polyalkyloxy, polyacrilamide, polyalkylacrylate, silicone rubbers and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.

Mentioned organosilicon choose, more specifically, among polyalkyloxy, which can be called especially polydimethylsiloxane with integral trimethylsilyl groups, having a viscosity from 5·10^-6 up to 2.5 m ²/c at 25°With, preferably, from 1·10^-5up to 1 m²/c. The viscosity of the organosilicon compounds is measured, for example, according to ASTM standard 445 Appendix C.

Among the above-mentioned polyallylamine can be called as not limiting the scope of protection of the following products:

- oil SILBIONE series 47 and 70047 or oil MIRASIL supplied by the company RHONE POULENC, such as, for example, oil 70047 V 500000;

- oils of the MIRASIL series supplied by the company RHONE POULENC,

- oils of the 200 series from DOW CORNING, such as, more specifically, DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 cSt;

- VISCASIL oils by GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) by GENERAL ELECTRIC.

You can also call polydimethylsiloxane with integral dimethylsilanol groups (Dimeticonol according to the CTFA nomenclature), such as oil series 48 company RHONE POULENC.

In this class polyalkyloxy you as the products provided under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, which are poly(C₁-C₂₀) alkylsilane.

Polyalkylacrylate choose, in particular, among polymethylphenylsiloxane, polymethylphenylsiloxane, linear and/or branched chain, having a viscosity of 1·10^-5up to 5·10^-2m²/c at 25°C.

Of these polyalkylacrylate can be called as an example, the products supplied under the following trade names is mi:

- oil SILBIONE series 70641 company RHONE POULENC;

- oil series RHODORSIL 70633 and 763 of the company RHONE POULENC;

- the oil DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID from DOW CORNING;

- organosilicon the RK series from BAYER, such as the product RC;

- organosilicon series PN, PH BAYER, such as the products PN1000 and RN;

- some oils of the SF series by GENERAL ELECTRIC, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

Silicone rubbers used according to the invention are, in particular, polydiorganosiloxane with srednetsenovoj molecular weight component from 200000 to 1000000, used individually or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be selected from among a volatile organosilicon compounds, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (pfms), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or mixtures thereof.

More specifically, you can call the following connections:

- polydimethylsiloxane,

- polydimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane rubber

- polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane,

- polydimethylsiloxane/phenilmethylsulfoxide,

- polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane.

More specifically, the products used according to the invention are mixtures such as:

- mixtures derived from p is odemethylation, gidrauxilirovannogo at the end of the chain (referred to as DIMETHICONOL according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (referred to as CYCLOMETHICONE according to the nomenclature of the CTFA dictionary), such as the product Q2 1401 supplied by the company DOW CORNING;

- mixtures derived from polydimethylsiloxane rubber and cyclic organosilicon compounds, such as the product SF 1214 SILICONE FLUID by GENERAL ELECTRIC, which is a rubber SF 30 corresponding to dimeticone with srednetsenovoj molecular weight of 500,000, the solubilized in the oil SF 1202 SILICONE FLUID corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane;

- a mixture of two polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) different viscosities, and more specifically, PDMS rubber and PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 company GENERAL ELECTRIC. The product SF 1236 is a mixture of rubber SE 30 with a viscosity of 20 m²a /c, defined above, and oil SF 96 with a viscosity of 5·10^-6m²/c. This product contains, preferably, 15% rubber SE 30 and 85% of oil SF 96.

Organopolysiloxane resin used according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units:

R₂SiO_2/2, R₃SiO_1/2, RSiO_3/2, SiO_4/2in which R is a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms, or phenyl group. Among these products, especially predpochtitel the YMI are such in which R denotes a lower (C₁-C₄)alkyl, more specifically methyl or phenyl.

Among the above-mentioned resins can be called a product supplied under the name "DOW CORNING 593"or products provided under the names "SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC, which are polyorganosiloxanes structure of dimethyl/trimethylsiloxy.

You can also call the resin type trimethylcyclohexylamine supplied, in particular, under the names CH-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company SHIN-ETSU.

Silicones, modified by organic groups, used according to the invention are silicones as defined before containing in their structure one or more functional organic groups connected via a hydrocarbon radical.

Among the silicones modified with organic groups can be called polyorganosiloxanes containing:

- polietilene and/or polypropyleneoxide containing, if necessary, (C₆-C₂₄)alkyl groups, such as the products called dimethiconol supplied by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE, and (C₁₂) alkylaminocarbonyl supplied by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2 5200;

substituted or unsubstituted amino groups, such as the products provided under the nae is a W GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company GENESEE, or products provided under the names Q2 8220 and DOW CORNING 929 and 939 by the company DOW CORNING; substituted amino groups are, in particular, (C₁-C₄)aminoalkyl group;

- tirinya groups such as the products provided under the names "GP 72 a" and "GP 71" company GENESEE;

- alkoxysilane groups, such as the product provided under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-75" firm SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT;

- gidroksilirovanii groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes with hydroxyalkyl group, described in the French patent application FR-A-8516334 corresponding to the formula (IX):

in which the radicals R₃', equal or different, selected from among methyl and phenyl radicals, at least 60 mol.% R₃denote a methyl radical; the radical R₃'represents a divalent hydrocarbon alkylenes chain containing from 2 to 18 carbon atoms; R takes values from 1 to 30, inclusive; q takes values from 1 to 150, inclusive;

- aryloxyalkyl groups, such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4957732 and corresponding to the formula (X):

in which:

R₄denotes methyl, phenyl, -OCOR₅, hydroxyl, however, only one of R₄each silicon atom may be HE

R₄' denotes methyl, phenyl; at least 60 mol.% aggregate R₄and R₄' denote methyl;

R₅means (C₈-C₂₀) alkyl or (C₈-C₂₀) alkenyl;

R" denotes a divalent hydrocarbon alkalinity radical, linear or branched, containing from 2 to 18 carbon atoms;

r takes values from 1 to 120, inclusive;

R takes values from 1 to 30;

q is 0 or less than 0.5 p, with p+q is in the range from 1 to 30;

polyorganosiloxanes of formula (X) may contain groups:

in proportion not exceeding 15% of the sum p+q+r;

- anionic groups, such as carboxyl, such as the products described in European patent EP 186507 company CHISSO CORPORATION, or of type alkylcarboxylic as groups present in the product X-22-A company SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkanoate group; 2-hydroxyethylphosphonate groups such as the products supplied by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL S201^//and "ABIL S255";

- hydroxyethylamino, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in European application EP 342834; can be called, for example, the product Q2-8413 from DOW CORNING.

According to the invention can also be used organosilicon compounds containing polysiloxane portion and a portion representing about the organic chain, which does not contain silicon, with one of the two parts forming the main chain of the polymer, and the other inoculated on the above-mentioned main chain. These polymers are described, for example, in patent applications EP-A-412704, EP-A-412707, EP-A-640105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-582152 and WO 93/23009 in the American patent US 4693935, US 4728571 and US 4972037. These polymers are preferably anionic or non-ionic.

The aforementioned polymers are, for example, copolymers that can be obtained by radical polymerization of a mixture of monomers composed of:

(a) 50-90 wt.% tert-butyl acrylate;

b) 0-40 wt.% acrylic acid;

b) 5-40 wt.% silicon macromer formula:

in which v represents a number from 5 to 700; the mass percentage calculated in relation to the total weight of the monomers.

Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), which by means of a connecting link DIPROPYLENE type grafted mixed polymer units of the type poly(meth)acrylic acid type polyalkyl(meth)acrylate and polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), which by means of a connecting link DIPROPYLENE type grafted polymer links polyisobutyl(meth)acrylate type.

According to the invention all the organosilicon compounds is of, similarly, can be used in the form of emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions.

Polyorganosiloxane, especially preferred according to the invention, are:

- non-volatile silicones chosen from the family of polyalkyleneglycol with integral trimethylsilyl groups, such as oils having a viscosity in the range from 0.2 to 2.5 m²/s at 25°With, such as the oils of the DC200 series from DOW CORNING, in particular, oil with a viscosity of 60,000 cSt, series SILBIONE 70047 and 47 and, more specifically, oil 70047 V 500000 supplied by the company RHONE POULENC, polyalkyloxy with integral dimethylsilanol groups, such as dimethiconol or polyalkyleneglycols, such as the oil SILBIONE 70641 V 200 supplied by the company RHONE POULENC;

- organopolysiloxane resin supplied under the name DOW CORNING 593;

- polysiloxane with aminirovanie groups, such as amodimethicone or trimethylsilylamodimethicone.

Cationic proteins or products of hydrolysis of proteins are, in particular, chemically modified polypeptides bearing Quaternary ammonium groups, which are at the end of the chain or grafted on it. Their MOLEKULYaRNAYa may be, for example, from 1500 to 10,000 and, in particular, from about 2000 to 5000.

Among the above-mentioned compounds can in particular be mentioned:

- the products of hydrolysis of collagen, chosen to replace trimethylammonium group, such as the products marketed under the name "Quat-Pro E" by the company MAYBROOK and referred to in the CTFA dictionary "Triethonium Hydrolyzed, Collagen Ethosulfate";

- the products of hydrolysis of collagen, the supporting trimethylammoniumchloride group and trimethylacetylchloride group, sold under the name "Quat-Pro S" by the company MAYBROOK and referred to in the CTFA dictionary "Steartrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen";

- the products of hydrolysis of proteins of animal origin, bearing trimethylphenylammonium groups such as the products marketed under the name "Crotein BTA" by the company CRODA and referred to in the CTFA dictionary "Benzyltrimonium hydrolyzed animal protein";

- the products of hydrolysis of proteins bearing on the polypeptide chain, Quaternary ammonium groups containing at least one alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

Among the products of hydrolysis of proteins can be called also:

- "Croquat L", Quaternary ammonium groups which contain (C₁₂)alkyl;

- "Croquat M", Quaternary ammonium groups which contain (C₁₀-C₁₈) alkyl groups;

- "Croquat S", Quaternary ammonium groups which contain (C₁₈)alkyl;

- "Crotein Q, Quaternary ammonium groups which contain at least one alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

Listed various products produced by the company Croda.

Other of quaternion and proteins or products of hydrolysis of proteins are for example, quaternion proteins or products of hydrolysis of proteins corresponding to the formula:

in which X^-is the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, And indicates the balance of protein, originating from the products of hydrolysis of collagen protein, R₅denotes a lipophilic group containing up to 30 carbon atoms, R₆means alkylenes group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Can be called, for example, products manufactured by the company Inolex under the name "lexein on QX 3000", referred to in the CTFA dictionary "Cocotrimonium Collagent Hydrolysate".

You can also call quaternion proteins of plant origin such as wheat, corn or soy proteins: how quaternion wheat proteins, can be called vegetable proteins supplied by the company Croda under the names "Hydrotriticum WQ or QM, referred to in the CTFA dictionary "Cocodimonium Hydrolysed wheat protein", "Hydrotriticum QL", referred to in the CTFA dictionary "Laurdimonium hydrolysed wheat protein", or "Hydrotriticum QS, referred to in the CTFA dictionary "Steardimonium hydrolysed wheat protein".

According to the present invention, compounds of ceramide type are, in particular, ceramide and/or glycolamide, and/or pseudoceramides, and/or neutrality, natural or synthetic.

Compounds of ceramide type are described, for example, in patent applications DE4424530, DE4424533, DE4402929, DE4420736,W095/23807, W094/07844, EP-A-0646572, W095/16665, FR-2673179, EP-A-0227994 and WO 94/07844, W094/24097, W094/10131, the contents of which are incorporated here by reference.

The compounds of ceramide type are particularly preferred according to the invention are, for example:

- 2-N-linolenicacid-1, 3-diol,

- 2-N-realamerican-1, 3-diol,

- 2-N-palmitoylethanolamide-1,3-diol,

- 2-N-stearylamine-1,3-diol,

- 2-N-ageneralization-1,3-diol,

- 2-N-[2-hydroxyphenethyl]aminooctane-1,3-diol,

- 2-N-stearylamine-1,3,4-triol and, in particular, N-sterification,

- 2-N-palmitoylethanolamide-1,3-diol,

bis(N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide,

- N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-tetroxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide cetilovy acid,

- N-docosanol-N-methyl-D-glucamine

or mixtures of the listed compounds.

You can also use cationic surfactants, among which can be mentioned, in particular, salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, if necessary polyoxyalkylene; Quaternary ammonium salt; imidazoline derivatives; or amine oxides of cationic nature.

Quaternary ammonium salts are, for example:

salts that meet the following General formula (IV):

in which the radicals R₁-R₄that may be the ü the same or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl; aliphatic radicals may also contain heteroatoms, such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogen; aliphatic radicals selected among, for example, alkyl, CNS, polyoxy (C₂-C₆) alkalinous, alkylamino, (C₁₂-C₂₂) alkylamino (C₂-C₆) alkyl, (C₁₂-C₂₂) allylacetate, hydroxyalkyl radicals containing from about 1 to 30 carbon atoms; X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C₂-C₆) alkyl sulphates, alkyl sulphonates or alkylarylsulfonates;

- Quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as, for example, salt of the following formula (V):

in which R₅means alkanniny or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from fatty acids of fat, R₆denotes a hydrogen atom, (C₁-C₄)alkyl, or denotes alkenyl or alkyl containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R₇means (C₁-C₄) alkyl, R₈denotes a hydrogen atom or a (C₁-C₄) alkyl, X denotes an anion, vybere the output from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl sulphonates or alkylarylsulfonates; preferably, R₅and R₆denote the mixture alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example originating from. fatty acids fat, R₇denotes methyl, R₈denotes hydrogen; such a product is, for example, a product supplied under the name "REWOQUAT W 75" company REWO;

- Quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI):

in which R₉denotes an aliphatic radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, R₁₀, R₁₁, R₁₂, R₁₃and R₁₄identical or different, chosen among hydrogen or alkyl radicals containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X denotes an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfate; such salts are Quaternary diammonium include, in particular, diammoniumphosphate;

- Quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group.

Quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester functional group, which can be used according to the invention, are, for example, salts of the following formula (VII):

in which:

- R₁₅choose among (C₁-C₆)alkyl radicals and hydroxy(C₁-C₆)alkyl or dihydroxy(C₁-C₆)alkyl radicals;

- R₁₆choose among:

radical

- hydrocarbon radicals R₂₀containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

is a hydrogen atom,

- R₁₈choose among:

radical

- hydrocarbon radicals R₂₂containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

is a hydrogen atom,

- R₁₇, R₁₉and R₂₁identical or different, chosen among the hydrocarbon radicals containing from 7 to 21 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

- n, p and r are the same or different, represent integers from 2 to 6;

- denotes an integer from 1 to 10;

x and z are the same or different, represent integers from 0 to 10;

X^-refers to simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic;

provided that the sum x+y+z takes values from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then R₁₆denotes the R₂₀and that when z is 0, then R₁₈oznachaet R₂₂.

Alkyl is by the radicals R ₁₅can be linear or branched and, more specifically, are linear.

Preferably, R₁₅oznachaet methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl and, more specifically, methyl or ethyl.

Preferably, the sum of x+y+z takes values from 1 to 10.

When R₁₆represents a hydrocarbon radical, R₂₀it can be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or a short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R₁₈represents a hydrocarbon radical, R₂₂it contains, preferably, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R₁₇R₁₉and R₂₁identical or different, chosen among the hydrocarbon radicals containing from 11 to 21 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more specifically, among the alkyl and alkenyl radicals containing from 11 to 21 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, equal or different, take the values 0 or 1.

Preferably, y is 1.

Preferably, n, p and r are the same or different, take the values 2 or 3 and, more preferably, equal to 2.

The anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or alkylsulfate, more specifically, methyl sulfate. It is possible, between t the m to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, the anion derived from organic acids, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium cation containing ester group.

More specifically, the anion X^-represents a chloride or methyl sulfate.

More specifically, the use of ammonium salt of the formula (VII)in which:

- R₁₅denotes methyl or ethyl,

- x and y are equal to 1;

z is 0 or 1;

- n, p and r are equal to 2;

- R₁₆choose among:

radical

is a methyl radical, ethyl radical, or (C₁₄-C₂₂)hydrocarbon radicals,

- hydrogen atom;

- R₁₈choose among:

radical

- hydrogen atom;

- R₁₇, R₁₉and R₂₁the same or different, selected from among (C₁₃-C₁₇)hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably, in a (C₁₃-C₁₇) and alkyl (C₁₃-C₁₇) alkenyl radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear.

Can be called, for example, the compounds of formula (VII), such as the salts (in particular chloride or methyl sulfate)

detsiloksibenzilidenamino, dealloc is ethylhydroxylamine, monoalkoxytrichloride, triacetonediamine, monoalkoxytrichloride and mixtures thereof. Acyl radicals contain preferably from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and happen more specifically, from vegetable oils, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl radicals, these last may be the same or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiethanolamine, if necessary oxyalkylation, with fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. Said esterification followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as alkylhalogenide (preferably methylguanosine or etisalate), dialkylamides (preferably dimethylsulfate or diethylsulfate), methyl ether of methanesulfonate, methyl ester of para-toluenesulfonic acid, chlorhydrin glycol or chlorhydrin glycerin.

Such compounds are supplied, for example, under the names DEHYQUART firm HENKEL, STEPANQUAT by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM firm of SES, REWOQUAT WE 18 by the company REWOWITCO.

You can also use ammonium salts containing what about the at least one ester group, described in the American patent US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

Among the Quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV) are preferred, on the one hand, of tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, chlorides of dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium, in which the alkyl radical contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular, the chlorides of beginelementary, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylamine, or, on the other hand, chloride

stearamidopropyl(myristicaceae)ammonium supplied under the name "CERAPHIL 70" by the company VAN DYK.

Fatty alcohols can be selected from among fatty alcohols containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, linear or branched.

More specifically, fatty alcohols selected from among lauric and miristinovoi alcohols, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, olejowego alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isoreticular alcohol and olejowego alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty acids are selected, more specifically, among myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, beganovi acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and ezoterikovou acid.

Derivatives of fatty alcohols or fatty acids are, in particular, esters of carboxylic acids, in particular esters of mono-, di-, tri - or tetracarbonyl the acid.

Esters of monocarboxylic acids are, in particular, monetary aliphatic acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, and aliphatic alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, the total number of carbon atoms in these esters is greater than or equal to 10.

Among these monoamino can be called dehydroabietylamine; octyldodecanol; isoamylamine; catallactic; (C₁₂-C₁₅)alkylated; isostearate; laurolactam; linolelaidic; oreillette; (izo)stearylamine; isocitrate; attractant; tetrachromat; decillia; societalization; isimilar; isolatedstore; isodecanoate; isotetinoiin; isononylphenol; isostearamide; methylacetylene; myristicaceae; octyldodecanol; 2-ethylhexanoate; ektralite; archipelagoes; attrstart, octyldodecanol; realroot; Etisalat and isopropyl, ethyl-2-hexylamine, 2-octylacrylamide, alkalinity, such as isopropylmyristate, Boutilimit, cetilistat, 2-octyldodecyl, existiert, butilstearat, isobutylester; dioctylmaleate, exellent, 2-hexyldecyl.

You can also use esters of di - or three is Urbanovich acids, containing from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and alcohols containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, and esters of mono-, di - or tricarboxylic acids and of two-, three-, four - or pentabasic alcohols containing from 2 to 26 carbon atoms.

In particular, you can call: diethylbenzene; diisopropylbenzene; Diisopropylamine; n-propylidene; dioctyladipate; disasterresilient; dioctylmaleate; glitserillinoleat; octyldodecanol; pentaerythritoltetranitrate; pentaerythritoltetranitrate; pentaerythritoltetranitrate; pentaerythritoltetranitrate; pentaerythritoltetranitrate; propilenglikolmonostearata; tricellaria; triisopropylsilyl; triisostearate; glyceryltrinitrate; glyceryltrinitrate; trioctyldodecyl; trolleycars.

Among the esters mentioned above, preferably, use ethylacetate and isopropylpalmitate, 2-ethylhexylamine, 2-octylacrylamide, alkalinity, such as isopropylmyristate, Boutilimit, cetilistat, 2-artillerists, existiert, butilstearat, isobutylester; dioctylmaleate, exellent, 2-hexyldecyl and isononylphenol, tetrachromat.

Fluorinated oils are, for example, a simple parfocality described in particular in European patent application EP-A-486135, and FPO the hydrocarbon compounds, described in particular in international patent application WO 93/11103. The contents of these two applications is fully incorporated into the present application by reference.

The term "ftoruglevodorodnye compound" means a compound, a chemical structure which involves carbon skeleton, some of the hydrogen atoms of which are substituted by fluorine atoms.

Fluorinated oils, similarly, can be fluorocarbons, such as foramina, for example, performability, fluorinated hydrocarbons, for example, performanceremuneration, complex fluorinated ethers and simple fluorinated ethers.

Simple parfocality produced, for example, under trade names FOMBLIN company MONTEFLUOS and KRYTOX company DU PONT.

Among ftoruglevodorodnyh compounds can also be called fluorinated esters of fatty acids, such as the products marketed under the name NOFABLE FO the company NIPPON OIL.

Of course, you can use a mixture of components with a conditioning effect.

According to the invention, the component or components with a conditioning effect can range from 0.001% to 20 wt.%, preferably, from 0.01% to 10 wt.% and, more specifically, from 0.1 to 3 wt.% in relation to the total weight of the final composition.

Compositions according to the invention, in addition, contain, preferably, at least one surface-active substances is about, which is usually present in the amount of approximately from 0.1% to 60 wt.%, preferably, from 1% to 40% and, more preferably, from 5% to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition.

Mentioned surfactant may be selected from among anionic, amphoteric, non-ionic surfactants or mixtures thereof.

Surfactants suitable for implementing the present invention are, in particular, the following substances.

(i) Anionic(s) surfactant(s) substance(s)

Their nature in the scope of the present invention does not acquire a truly critical nature.

So, as an example of anionic surfactants that can be used individually or in mixtures, in the scope of the present invention include, in particular (the list is not restrictive) the salts (in particular alkali metal salts, in particular sodium, ammonium salts, salts of amines, salts of aminoalcohols or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkylacrylate, alkylamidoamines, alkylarylsulfonates, monoglycerides; alkyl sulphonates, alkylphosphates, alkylarylsulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-reincorporation, parafusulina; alkylsulfonates, alkyloxyalkyl is s, alkylarylsulfonates; alkylsulfonates; alkylsulfonates; alliloxietanol; acylcarnitine; utilizationof and N-aculturated, while the alkyl or acyl radical of all these various compounds contains, preferably, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical means, preferably, phenyl or benzyl. Among the anionic surfactants which can also be used, similarly, can be called salts of fatty acids such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acids, the acids of coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil; allactivity, acyl group containing from 8 to 20 carbon atoms. You can also use surfactants with mild anionic properties, such as D-Alkylglucoside acids and their salts, as well as polyoxyalkylene (C₆-C₂₄)allyloxycarbonyl acid, polyoxyalkylene (C₆-C₂₄)alkylaminocarbonyl acid, polyoxyalkylene (C₆-C₂₄)alkylaminocarbonyl acids and their salts, in particular containing from 2 to 50 taksigrup, and mixtures thereof.

Among the anionic surfactants according to the invention, preferably, use salts of alkyl sulphates and alkyloxyalkyl and the mixture.

(ii) Nonionic(s) surfactant(s) substance(s)

Nonionic surfactants also are compounds themselves are well known (see, in particular, in this regard reference "Handbook of Surfactants", M.R. Porter, editions Blackie &Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178)and their nature in the scope of the present invention does not acquire critical nature. So, they can be selected, in particular, among (the list is not restrictive) alcohols, alpha-diols, ALKYLPHENOLS or polyethoxysiloxane, polipropilenovyh or polyglycidylether fatty acids having aliphatic chain containing, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, with the number of taksigrup or propoxylate may be, in particular from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups can be, in particular from 2 to 30. You can also call copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensation products of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxysiloxane amides of fatty acids containing preferably from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, paliperidonesee amides of fatty acids containing on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups, in particular from 1.5 to 4; polyethoxysiloxane fatty amines containing preferably from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated esters of fatty acids and sorbitan, sod is rashie from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; the fatty acid esters and sucrose esters of fatty acids and of polyethylene glycol, alkylpolyglycoside derived N-alkylguanine, aminoxide, such as (C₁₀-C₁₄) alkylamines or N-acylaminopyrazoles. It should be noted that alkylpolyglycoside are non-ionic surfactants, particularly well included in the scope of the present invention.

(iii) Amphoteric(s) surfactant(s) substance(s)

Amphoteric surfactants, the nature of which is not acquired in the scope of the present invention the critical nature can be, in particular (the list is not restrictive) derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8-22 carbon atoms and containing at least one hydrosolubility anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfo, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); can be called (C₈-C₂₀) alkylbetaine, sulfobetaine, (C₈-C₂₀) alkylamino (C₁-C₆) alkylbetaine or (C₈-C₂₀) alkylamino (C₁-C₆) alkylsulfonates.

Among the derivatives of amines can be called the products supplied under the name MIRANOL, such as described in U.S. Pat is ntah US-2528378 and US-2781354 and corresponding to the formula:

R₂-CONHCH₂CH₂-N(R₃)(R₄)(CH₂COO-) (2)

in which: R₂denotes an alkyl radical derived from acid R₂-COOH present in gidrolizovannogo coconut oil, Gately, monilinia or undecylenic radical, R₃denotes the beta hydroxyethylene group, and R₄means carboxymethyl group; and

R₅-CONHCH₂CH₂-N(B)(C) (3)

in which:

In denotes-CH₂CH₂OH'means -(CH₂)_z-Y' where z=1 or 2

X' represents a group-CH₂CH₂-COOH or a hydrogen atom,

Y' represents-COOH or-CH₂-CHOH-SO₃H,

R₅denotes an alkyl radical of an acid R₉-COOH present in coconut oil or in gidrolizovannogo linseed oil, alkyl, in particular With the₇-With₉-With₁₁- or₁₃-alkyl, C₁₇-alkyl and its isoforms, unsaturated With₁₇-radical.

These compounds are classified in the dictionary of the Association for perfume and cosmetic products and fragrances (CTFA), 5th edition, 1993, under the title: dinitrilotetraacetic, dinitrilotetraacetic, dynamicupdatearea, intricatesoftware.com, disatriculation, diacryloylpiperazine, deadlinephiladelphia, deadlinephiladelphia, lauramidopropyl the acid, cocoamidopropyl acid.

As an example we can mention cocoamphodiacetate supplied under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentre by the company RHONE POULENC.

In the compositions according to the invention, preferably, a mixture of surface-active substances, and, in particular, mixtures of anionic surfactants and mixtures of anionic surfactants and amphoteric or nonionic surfactants. Especially preferred is a mixture comprising at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant.

Preferably, use of anionic surface-active substance selected from among (C₁₂-C₁₄)alkyl sulphates of sodium, triethanolamine or ammonium (C₁₂-C₁₄) alkylacrylate sodium, triethanolamine or ammonium ethoxylated 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, cocoylisethionate sodium and alpha(C₁₂-C₁₄) reincorporate sodium and mixtures thereof:

- or amphoteric surface-active substance such as amine derivatives, referred to as disatriculation or matriculation supplied, in particular, by the company RHONE POULENC under the trade name "MIRANOL C2M CONC" in the form of an aqueous solution containing 38% active substance, or under the name MIRANOL C32;

- what are amphoteric surface-active substance zwitterionic type, such as alkylbetaine, in particular, chocolatey supplied under the name "DEHYTON AB 30" as an aqueous solution containing 32% of AB, the company HENKEL.

The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one additive chosen among the thickeners, fragrances, components, giving a pearly luster, preservatives, anionic or nonionic polymers, cationic proteins, products of hydrolysis are cationic proteins, 18-methylacetanilide acids, hydroxyacids, associative polymers, non-associative polymers according to the invention, and, in particular, nonionic associative politicalization, and any other additive usually used in cosmetics that does not impair the properties of the compositions according to the invention.

These additives are present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts which may represent from 0 to 20 wt.% in relation to the total weight of the composition. The exact amount of each additive is easily determined by the expert in accordance with its nature and its function.

Compositions according to the invention can be used, more specifically, for washing or treatment of keratin materials such as hair, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, nails, lips, scalp, and, more specifically, the hair.

In particular, compositions according to izobreteny may be a detergent composition, such as shampoos, shower gels and foam baths. In this embodiment of the invention the compositions contain washing, usually water.

Surfactant or surfactants forming the washing base can be independently selected individually or in mixtures among anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants, such as defined above.

The quantity and quality of washing framework should be sufficient to give the final composition a satisfactory foaming and/or detergent power.

Thus, according to the invention, the washing base can be from 4% to 50 wt.%, preferably, from 6% to 35 wt.% and, even more preferably from 8% to 25 wt.% of the total weight of the final composition.

The pH value of the composition applied to the keratin materials, typically ranges from 2 to 11. Preferably, it ranges from 3 to 8 and can be brought to the desired value using acidifying or alkalizing agents are well known in the prior art compositions are applied to the keratin materials.

Among the alkalizing agents can be called as an example, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates of alkali metals, alkanolamines, such as mono-, di-and triethanolamines and their derivatives, hydroxyethylamine and acetyltyrosine and/and and oxyprogesterone ethylendiamine, the hydroxides of sodium or potassium hydroxide and the compounds of formula (XIX), the following:

in which R is a propylene radical, in some cases substituted hydroxyl group, or (C₁-C₄) alkyl; R₃₈, R₃₉, R₄₀and R₄₁identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, (C₁-C₄)alkyl or hydroxy (C₁-C₄) alkyl.

Acidifying agents are usually as an example, inorganic or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or sulfonic acid.

Physiologically and in particular cosmetically acceptable medium may be formed only water, cosmetically acceptable solvent or a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent, such as, in particular, low (C₁-C₄) alcohol, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol; alkalophile, such as propylene glycol, ethers of glycols.

The subject invention is also a method of treatment of keratin materials such as the skin or the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to keratin materials a cosmetic composition such as defined before, then if not is bademosi carry out the rinsing water.

Thus, this method according to the invention ensures the safety of hairstyles, skin treatment, hair or any other keratin material, care for them, or wash, or remove them with makeup.

Compositions according to the invention can also be in the form of a rinse-off or leave-on rinse, are used after shampooing, compositions for waving, straightening, dyeing or bleaching, or in the form of rinse-off compositions intended to be applied before or after dyeing, bleaching, perming or straightening, or between two stages perming or straightening.

Compositions according to the invention can also be in the form of washing compositions for the skin, in particular in the form of solutions or gels, bath or shower, or means for removing makeup.

Compositions according to the invention can also be in the form of aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic lotions for skin care and/or hair.

Cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be in the form of a gel, jelly, cream, emulsion, thick lotion or foam and can be used for skin, nails, eyelashes, lips, and more specifically for the hair.

To ensure application of the composition in spray form or in the form of a foam, the composition can be packaged in various forms, in particular, the spray is, bottles with a pump or aerosol spray. Such forms of packaging create, for example, when you want to obtain a spray, a lacquer or foam for treatment, the keratin materials, in particular hair.

Throughout the preceding text and in the text following, the percentage content expressed in mass percent.

Now the invention will be more fully illustrated by the following examples, which should not be construed as limiting the implementation.

EXAMPLES

In the examples AB means "active substance"

Polymer 1 is the following polymer:

C₁₈H₃₇-O-CONHR₄NHCO-O-(CH₂)₂-N⁺(CH₃)(CH₃)-(CH₂)₂-O-CONHR₄NHCO-O-(POE)-CONHR₄NHCO-O-(CH₂)₂-N⁺(CH₃)(CH₃)-(CH₂)₂-O-CONHR₄NHCO-O-C₁₈H₃₇where:

the counterion: CH₃SO₄ ^-

R₄=methylenedicyclohexyl.

In a reactor with a volume of 500 ml with a Central mechanical stirring, thermometer, cooling and supply of nitrogen injected with 0.01 mol PEG-150+0,0006 mol 2-ethylhexanoate tin +100 ml of tetrahydrofuran (THF).

Stirred at room temperature to obtain a homogeneous solution, then, remaining at room temperature, dropwise impose 0.02 mole methylenedicyclohexyl-4,4'-DIIS the cyanate.

Then heated under reflux to the boiling point of the solvent (66°C) for 30 minutes and left at the same temperature for about 15 hours.

Then injected with 0.02 mol of N-methyldiethanolamine that interacts within 2 hours at 66°With (controlled by the disappearance of the band CNO isocyanate in the infrared spectrum), then add 0.02 mole methylenedicyclohexyl-4,4'-diisocyanate, which interacts within 3 hours (controlled by the disappearance of the band CNO isocyanate in the infrared spectrum) and, finally, 0.02 mol of octadecanol.

Leave in for 3 additional hours at the boiling temperature of the solvent.

The polymer was then quaternized using 0,022 mol of dimethylsulfate.

The reaction medium becomes opaque, heating support with 66°C for 48 hours.

Wednesday I leave to cool to room temperature.

Polyurethane purified by precipitation in petroleum ether, filtered and dried in vacuum at 55°C to constant mass.

The final product is in the form of a white powder.

The output is 88%.

Polymer 2 is the following polymer:

C₁₈H₃₇N⁺(CH₃)(CH₃)-(CH₂)₂-O-CONHR₄NHCO-O-(POE)-CONHR₄NHCO-O-(CH₂)₂-N⁺(CH₃)(CH₃)₁₈H₃₇

where:

R₄methylenedicyclohexyl

the counterion: Br^-.

In a reactor with a volume of 500 ml with a Central mechanical stirring, thermometer, cooling and supply of nitrogen injected with 0.01 mol PEG-150+0,0006 mol 2-ethylhexanoate tin +100 ml of tetrahydrofuran (THF).

Stirred at room temperature to obtain a homogeneous solution, then, remaining at room temperature, dropwise impose 0.02 mole methylenedicyclohexyl-4,4'-diisocyanate (controlled by the disappearance of the band CNO isocyanate in the infrared spectrum).

Then enter 0.02 mol N,N-dimethylethanolamine and leave with 66°C for 4 hours.

The polymer was then quaternized using 0,024 mol stearylamine.

After this heating the support at 66°With within 24 hours.

Wednesday I leave to cool to room temperature.

Polyurethane purified by precipitation in petroleum ether, filtered and dried in vacuum at 55°C to constant mass.

The final product is in the form of a white powder.

The yield is 92%.

EXAMPLE 1

Preparing a composition for shampoo:

Hair treated in this shampoo are smooth, soft and protected from the harmful effects of light.

EXAMPLE 2

Prepare the following composition for shampoo:

Hair treated in this shampoo are smooth and soft.

EXAMPLE 3

Prepare a hair rinse according to the invention of the following composition:

EXAMPLE 4

Prepare a hair rinse according to the invention of the following composition:

1. The composition for treatment of keratin fibres such as the hair, containing, in a physiologically and in particular cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one protective component and/or component with a conditioning effect and at least one amphiphilic cationic associative polyurethane of formula I:

in which

R and R', equal or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;

X and X', equal or different, denote a group containing an amino group, bearing or not bearing a hydrophobic group, or g is PUF L";

L, L' and L"are the same or different, represent a group derived from diisocyanate;

R and R', equal or different, denote a group containing an amino group, bearing or not bearing a hydrophobic group;

Y represents a hydrophilic group;

r denotes an integer from 1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 50, in particular from 1 to 25;

n, m and p each independently of the other, taking values from 0 to 1000;

when this molecule contains at least one protonated or quaternion the amino group and at least one hydrophobic group,

with the exception of compositions for the direct dyeing of keratin fibres, containing in an environment suitable for dyeing, at least one direct dye and at least one cationic associative polyurethane of formula (I),

with the exception of compositions for oxidative dyeing of keratin fibers, containing in an environment suitable for dyeing, at least one oxidation dye and at least one cationic associative polyurethane of formula (I),

with the exception of ready-to-use composition for bleaching keratin fibers, containing in an environment suitable for bleaching, at least one oxidizer and at least one cationic associative polyurethane forms the crystals (I),

with the exception of ready-to-use composition for bleaching or changing the shape of keratin fibers, containing in an environment suitable for bleaching, at least one reducing agent and at least one cationic associative polyurethane of formula (I).

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R' on the ends of the chain.

3. Composition according to one of claim 1 or 2, characterized in that R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X' each represents a group L", n and p take values from 1 to 1000, and L, L' L" R, R', Y and m have the meanings indicated in claim 1.

4. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X' each represents a group L", n and p take values 0, L, L' L" Y and m have the meanings indicated in claim 1.

5. The composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X' both independently represent a group containing a Quaternary amino group, n and p are equal to zero, L, L', Y and m have the meanings indicated in claim 1.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that R and R' represent a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, in which one or more carbon atoms can be replaced is received by a heteroatom, choose among S, N, O, P, or perfluorinated radical with or silicone chain.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, wherein X and X' correspond to one of the formulas:

in which

R₂means alkilinity radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, containing or not containing a saturated or unsaturated cycle or Allenby radical, where one or more carbon atoms can be replaced by a heteroatom selected among N, S, O, R;

R₁and R₃identical or different, represent (C1-C₃₀) alkyl or (C₁-C₃₀) alkenyl, linear or branched, aryl, and at least one of the carbon atoms may be replaced by a heteroatom selected among N, S, O, R;

And^-represents a physiologically acceptable counterion.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, wherein the groups L, L' and L"are the same or different, correspond to the formula:

in which

Z represents-O-, -S-or-NH-, and

R₄means alkilinity radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, containing or not containing a saturated or unsaturated cycle, Allenby for the al, one or more carbon atoms can be replaced by a heteroatom selected among N, S, O and P.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the groups R and R', equal or different, are responsible for at least one of the following formulas:

in which

R₅and R₇have the same values that R₂defined in claim 7;

R₆, R₈and R₉have the same values that R₁and R₃defined in claim 7;

R₁₀means alkylenes group, linear or branched, in certain cases, unsaturated, which can contain one or more heteroatoms selected among N, O, S and P;

And^-represents a physiologically acceptable counterion.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that Y represents a group derived from ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or propylene glycol, or a group derived from a polymer selected from among polyether, polyether sulfonic acids and polyamides sulfonic acids.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the cationic polyurethanes have srednecenovogo molecular weight of from 400 to 500,000, predpochtitel what about from 1,000 to 400,000, in particular from 1000 to 300000.

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the cationic associative polyurethanes used in an amount which can range from 0.01 to 10 wt.% by weight of the total composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt.% of the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the above-mentioned protective component for keratin materials selected from among UV filters, agents against free radicals, antioxidants, vitamins, provitamins and complexing agents.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the above-mentioned UV filters selected from among water-soluble or fat-soluble filters, silicon or silicon -, and nanoparticles of inorganic oxides, the surface of which, if necessary, has been processed.

15. The composition according to the preceding paragraph, characterized in that the above-mentioned water-soluble UV filter selected from the group formed by p-aminobenzoic acid and its salts Anthranilic acid and its salts, salicylic acid and its salts, hydroxycortisol acid and its salts, Alphaprodine of benzothiazole, benzimidazole, benzoxazole and their salts, sulfadiazine benzophenone and their salts, sulfadiazine benzylideneacetone and with the s, derivatives benzylideneacetone, substituted Quaternary amine, and salts, derivatives talibancontrolled acids and their salts, sulfadiazine benzotriazole, hydrophilic polymers having, in addition, by their chemical nature light shielding properties with respect to UV radiation, and mixtures thereof.

16. The composition according to 14 or 15, characterized in that the above-mentioned oil-soluble filter selected from among the derivatives of p-aminobenzoic acid, such as esters or amides of p-aminobenzoic acid, derivatives of salicylic acid, such as esters of salicylic acid, derivatives of benzophenone, derivatives of dibenzoylmethane; derived diphenylacetate; derived benzofuranol; polymeric UV-filter containing one or more organosilicon residues; esters of cinnamic acid; camphor derivatives; derivatives of trainline-3-triazine; ethyl ester Eurocasinobet acid; benzotriazoles; derivatives hydroxyphenyltriazine; bestesonlinecasino; and mixtures thereof.

17. The composition according to item 16, characterized in that the above-mentioned oil-soluble filter selected among: octisalate; 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane; octocrylene; 2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate and the compounds of formula (II):

19. The composition according to p, characterized in that the synthetic oils are a polyolefin type polybutylene, hydrogenated or negidrirovannogo, or type polydecene, hydrogenated or negidrirovannogo.

20. The composition according to p, characterized in that the cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units having the structure of primary, secondary, tertiary and/or Quaternary amino groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain, or be part of a side substituent directly connected with it.

21. The composition according to p or 20, characterized in that the above-mentioned cationic polymer selected from among Quaternary simple derivatives of cellulose ether, cationic cyclopolymer, cationic polysaccharides, Quaternary poly the development of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, and mixtures thereof.

22. The composition according to item 21, characterized in that the above-mentioned cyclopolymer selected from among homopolymers of diallyldimethylammoniumchloride and copolymers of diallyldimethylammoniumchloride and acrylamide.

23. The composition according to item 21, wherein the above-mentioned Quaternary derivatives of simple cellulose ether selected among hydroxyethylcellulose, reacted with the epoxy compound, substituted trimethylammonio group.

24. The composition according to item 21, wherein the above-mentioned cationic polysaccharides selected from among Gurovich resins, modified salt of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium.

25. The composition according to p, wherein the organosilicon is selected among polyorganosiloxanes, insoluble in the composition.

26. The composition according to p. 25, characterized in that the polyorganosiloxanes are non-volatile polyorganosiloxanes chosen among polyalkyloxy, poliatilenaksida, polyalkylacrylate, silicone rubbers and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof.

27. The composition according to p, characterized in that (a) polyalkyloxy selected among polydimethylsiloxanes with integral trimethylsilyl groups; polydimethylsiloxanes with integral dimethylsilanol groups; poly(C₁-C₂₀)and is telelatino; (b) polyalkylacrylate selected among polymethylphenylsiloxane, polymethylphenylsiloxane, linear and/or branched, with a viscosity in the range of 1·10^-5÷ 5·10^-2m²/s at 25°With; (c) silicone rubbers selected among polydiorganosiloxane with srednetsenovoj molecular weight component of 200,000 to 1,000,000, used individually or in the form of a mixture in a solvent; (d) a resin selected from resins consisting of units: R₃SiO_1/2, R₂SiO_2/2, RSiO_3/2, SiO_4/2in which R is a hydrocarbon group containing 1 to 16 carbon atoms, or phenyl group; (e) silicones, modified by organic groups selected from among silicon, containing in their structure one or more functional organic groups connected via a hydrocarbon radical.

28. The composition according to item 27, wherein the silicone rubbers used individually or in the form of a mixture, chosen among the following structures: polydimethylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane/phenilmethylsulfoxide, polydimethylsiloxane/diphenylsiloxane/methylvinylsiloxane and the following mixtures: mixtures derived from polydimethylsiloxane, gidrauxilirovannogo at the end of the chain, and cyclizes the th polydimethylsiloxane; the mixture obtained on the basis of polydimethylsiloxane rubber and cyclic organosilicon compounds; mixtures of polydimethylsiloxanes with different viscosity.

29. The composition according to item 27, wherein the organosilicon compounds modified with organic groups selected among polyorganosiloxanes containing a) polietilene and/or polypropyleneoxide; b) amino groups, substituted or unsubstituted;) tirinya group; g) alkoxysilane group; d) hydroxyalkyl group; (e) aryloxyalkyl group; g) alkylcarboxylic; C) 2-hydroxyalkanoate group; and) 2-hydroxyethylphosphonate group; j) hydroxyethylamino.

30. Composition according to any one of p-29, characterized in that the polyorganosiloxanes chosen among polyalkyloxy with integral trimethylsilyl groups, polyalkyloxy with integral dimethylsilanol groups, polyalkylacrylate, mixtures of two PDMS made of rubber and oil with different viscosity, mixtures of organosiloxanes and cyclic organosilicon compounds, organopolysiloxane resins.

31. The composition according to p, characterized in that compounds of ceramide type selected among the following compounds:

2-N-linolenicacid-1,3-diol,

2-N-realamerican-1,3-diol,

2-N-Palmitoyl mineaction-1,3-diol,

2-N-stearylamine-1,3-diol,

2-N-ageneralization-1,3-diol,

2-N-[2-hydroxyphenethyl]aminooctane-1,3-diol,

2-N-stearylamine-1,3,4-triol and, in particular, N-sterification,

2-N-palmitoylethanolamide-1,3-diol,

bis-N-hydroxyethyl-N-cetyl)malonamide,

N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-tetroxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide cetilovy acid,

N-docosanol-N-methyl-D-glucamine

or mixtures of the above compounds.

32. Composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the component or components with a protective and/or conditioning effect is present in the concentration component of 0.001-20 wt.% in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01 to 10 wt.%.

33. Composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that it additionally contains at least one surfactant selected among anionic, nonionic, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof.

34. The composition according to p, wherein the surfactant or surfactants are present at a concentration that constitutes 0.1 to 60 wt.%, preferably 1-40 wt.%, even more preferably 5-30 wt.% in relation to the total weight of the composition.

35. Composition according to any one of the preceding paragraphs, trichomania fact, that it is in the form of shampoo, mouthwash, composition for waving, straightening, dyeing or bleaching the hair, rinse-off compositions intended for use between two stages perming or straightening, cleaning compositions for the body.

36. The use of a composition such as defined in any of the preceding paragraphs, as compositions for washing or caring for keratin materials.

37. Method of treatment of keratin fibers such as the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the above mentioned materials a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 35, and then, if necessary, carry out the rinsing water.