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Application of preparation containing creatine, creatinine and/or their derivatives for enhancing and improving structures of keratin fibers

Application of preparation containing creatine, creatinine and/or their derivatives for enhancing and improving structures of keratin fibers
IPC classes for russian patent Application of preparation containing creatine, creatinine and/or their derivatives for enhancing and improving structures of keratin fibers (RU 2252010):
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FIELD: cosmetic industry.

SUBSTANCE: the present innovation deals with preparations to fix, strengthen, restructure, restore or stabilize keratin fibers, especially damaged fibers. For this purpose one should apply creatine, creatinine and/or their salts to provide improves glare, volume or combing capacity of one's hair, as well. Earlier these preparations had been known as hair moisturizers.

EFFECT: higher efficiency of application.

12 cl, 9 ex

 

Description

The subject of this invention is the use of products containing creatine, creatinine and/or their derivatives to fix, improve Shine, strengthen and improve the structure (restructuring) or to increase the amount of keratin fibers, especially damaged keratin fibers like hair man.

It is known that keratin fibers are damaged under the influence of the environment (for example, radiation of high energy), physiological state (e.g., age or health of a specific individual) or as a result of mechanical and chemical effects. The result is inadequate mechanical properties of the damaged material. Such damage to the internal structure of the keratin fibers are manifested, for example, loss of hardness, luster, strength, strength at break, tensile stress or strength of the beam in tension.

On the keratin fibers, especially human hair, this effect is noticeable primarily because of the lack of gloss, low tensile strength and difficulties tangle free. These changes are caused by aging processes, which are primarily caused physiologically or connected with the physical (natural aging), mechanical (combs, brushes) and chemical influences. In the case of long hair in such the action is particularly noticeable at the ends of the hair. To chemical effects are primarily bleaching, oxidizing paint and long Curling hair, with aggressive oxidants or reductants are mainly used in alkaline environment and are in full force. But other chemical effects have a damaging effect on materials containing keratin, such as water, enriched in chlorine or salt.

Commercially available mouthwashes and remedies as active substances contain mostly cationic surfactants and polymers, waxes and/or oils. Than hair more damaged, the more anionic groups is on the surface. Cationic compounds electrostatically attracted to this oppositely charged surface, while oils and waxes interact with the hydrophobic groups of the keratin. The improvements of the internal structure of the hair these tools to care is not achieved.

The application for this purpose certain unsaturated compounds, in particular ascorbic acid, means on care of hair is known from international application WO 00/57839. However, ascorbic acid in aqueous solution is stable for a short period of time, therefore, these funds cannot be stored for a long time, they should need a kitchen is determined immediately before use.

From the application DE-A 19841385 know the use of creatine and derivatives of creatine as moisturizers for cosmetic compositions. These compositions should improve the elastic properties of the skin and to reduce wrinkles and eliminate cracks and dandruff.

The present invention is to create a tool, in particular a cosmetic agent for the treatment of hair, in order to apply to improve the condition of hair, which would not have the aforementioned disadvantages.

The problem is solved by the use of products containing creatine, creatinine and/or their derivatives and/or their salts to fix, consolidation, restructuring, restoration, or stabilization of keratin fibers, or to enhance Shine, volume, or raschesyvaemost keratin fibers.

Unexpectedly, it was shown that when using creatine, creatinine and/or their derivatives and/or their salts, the structure of keratin fibers (hair) is changed so that the fixing and strengthening and improving the strength at break, tensile stress or strength of the beam in tension, especially tired and damaged keratin fibers.

Along with the action to care, which is described hereinafter and which is the effect of the surface of the hair (the cuticle), when it detects the tsya special restorative effect. This action is reflected in the change in the inner part of the hair (cortex). Measured tensile strength required to break oxidized (discoloration) pre-damaged hair. Unexpectedly, it was shown that the very hair that after oxidative damage were processed product containing creatine, creatinine and/or their derivatives and/or their salts, required considerably more effort needed to break.

This is surprising because, on the basis of patterns of creatine and its derivatives, no penetration inside the hair, or any influence on the structure of proteins is not expected. In addition, it is known that intact wet hair has a much lower tensile strength (600-900 mn)than dry (1000-1500 mn). Therefore, it was expected that this moisturizer as creatine or creatinine, will only reduce the effort on the gap, and will not increase, as it was shown.

Linked to this is not only the possibility of restructuring (recovery) damaged keratin fibers, but also a protective effect, which counteracts the damage of these materials before or during exposure to damaging relevant factors which may hinder such factors or to reduce them.

Along with combating these negative from what anenemy, caused by exogenous damaging factors, the use according to the invention may also have a beneficial effect on the condition, caused by physiological processes or a change in the structure of keratin fibers, for example, in case of brittle hair due to age, or thin hair, which can be congenital or acquired with age (baby hair, senile hair).

In addition, it was found that on the keratin fibres, in particular hair, the use according to the invention can provide an increase in volume that can have a positive effect in creating hairstyles (increase splendor hair). It is assumed that the effect of the volume increase associated with locking, firming or texturing the hair by the action of the agents used according to the invention. This was unexpected, since it is usually substances with a wetting action, rather reduce the volume of hair.

The object of the present invention is the application under paragraph 1.

Particularly preferred uses of the substance: creatine (N-epidinocarsis) (formula I)and the product of its cyclization creatinine (2-imino-1-methyl-imidazolidin-4-one) (formula II) and are the physiological part of the tissues of humans and animals.

Other particularly preferred substances are phosphocreatine, cyclocreatine, postallocation, goodeniaceae, 3-guadagnin-propionic acid, guadagnin-ascorbate and createserver.

According to the invention, preferably used creatine, creatinine and/or their derivatives of the formula (III), (IV) or (V)

where R1and R2mean independently from each other H, -CH3, -CH2CH3or linear or branched C3-C22-alkali, and n=1 or 2. Mainly R1and R2mean independently from each other H, -CH3, -CH2CH3or linear or branched C3-C8-alkali, especially preferred H, -CH3, -CH2CH3or - CH2CH2CH3.

For this purpose can also be applied to any mixture of creatine, creatinine and/or their derivatives and/or their salts.

Other examples of the present invention described in the claims.

The use of exercise that keratin fibers are brought into contact with a product containing creatine, creatinine and/or their derivatives and/or their salts, which after application is preferably remains on the fibers, or opolaskivaetsya or washed after the proper time of exposure to aqueous medium.

Preferably, if the creatine is creatinin and/or their derivatives and/or their salts are contained in the medium in amounts of from 0.001 to 30.0 weight percent, preferably from 0.01 to 10.0 percent by weight, especially preferably from 0.05 to 1.0 percent by weight relative to the total amount.

A tool is described for use according to the invention, may be represented in any suitable ready form, which is known in the cosmetic or pharmaceutical industry.

In particular, the tool may be in the form of aqueous or aqueous-alcohol solution as a gel, cream, emulsion or foam, the tool can be prepared as in the form of a single component of the drug, and in the form of a multicomponent preparation. If a single component of the drug product contains creatine, creatinine and/or at least one derivative and/or salt together with suitable excipients and fillers (for example, thickeners, acids, perfumes, solvents, salts, wetting agents and/or UV absorbers).

If the tool is in the form of a multicomponent preparation, it may consist of at least two different components, spatially separated until use. The first component may contain, or only the main component of the present invention creatine, creatinine and/or at least one derivative and/or salt (active substance or active substance may find the camping in this first component, mixed together with auxiliary substance (e.g., thickener), mostly in solid dry form (e.g. powder in pressed or unpressed form, granular or tablets). The second or further components only contain excipients and fillers.

It is also possible that in a multicomponent drug contained different components of different active substances according to the invention, individually or in the form of a mixture, either individually or in a mixture with various excipients and other components contained only excipients and fillers.

According to the invention, the application includes compositions characterized in that they are represented as single drug or multi-drug. If used, the tool is in the form of a multicomponent preparation, it includes a first component that contains creatine, creatinine and/or their derivatives and/or their salts with or without auxiliary substances and additives, and the second component, which contains the usual components. Next, apply the tool may be in the form of a multicomponent preparation at least three different components, and at least one of the components contains creatine, creatinine and/or their derivatives and/or their salts, and the other to the components contain other elements.

Needless to say, what to obtain ready-to-use tools to separate spatially separated components of a multicomponent drug must be mixed shortly before use according to the invention.

The agent used according to the invention may additionally contain fillers and excipients, such as solvents, such as water, lower aliphatic alcohols, for example ethanol, n-propanol and isopropanol, simple glycol ether or glycols such as glycerin and especially 1,2-propandiol; further, the dissolving agent, wetting agent or emulsifiers from the class of anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants such as sulfates of fatty alcohols, ethoxylated sulfates of fatty alcohols, alkyl sulphonates, alkylbenzenesulfonate, alkyltrimethylammonium salt, alkylbetaine, ethoxylated higher alcohols, ethoxylated nonylphenols, fatty alkanolamide acids, ethoxylated esters of fatty acids, furthermore thickeners such as higher alcohols, starch or cellulose derivatives; salts, such as NaCl, buffer compounds, such as ammonium bicarbonate; thiols, ketocarboxylic acids (oxocarbons acid), in particular α-ketocarboxylic acids and their physiologically compatible salts, UV-absorbers, the perfume is rnie supplements dyes, conditioners, means for giving volume to the hair, preservatives, petrolatum, paraffin oil and fatty acids, and in addition, personal care products, such as cationic resins, lanolin derivatives, cholesterol, Pantothenic acid and betaine; foaming agents such as propane, butane, dimethyl ether, N2O and carbon dioxide.

The above component parts are used in common for purposes such quantities, for example, water in an amount of from 0.1 to 95 wt%, wetting agent and emulsifier in a total concentration of from 0.2 to 30 weight percent, alcohols in a total amount from 0.1 to 50 weight percent, suspendresume agents, perfume oils, preservatives and dyes in each number from 0.01 to 5 weight percent, the buffer compounds in amount equal to from 0.1 to 10 weight percent, agents, dissolution, stabilizers, such as components, conditioning the hair and treat your hair, each number from 0.1 to 5 weight percent, while the thickeners and agents of dissolution can be used in this tool, in the total amount of 0.5 to 20 weight percent.

The pH value of the tool is preferably from 2.0 to 10.0, preferably from 3.0 to 9.0. If necessary, the desired pH is achieved by adding acids, such as α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, such as the lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or orange acid, phosphoric acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, glutathione or lactone of gluconic acid or alkalizing means, such as ammonia, alkanolamine, bonds alkylamines, hydroxides of alkali metals, ammonium hydroxide, carbonates of alkali metals, ammonium carbonates or phosphates of alkali metals.

When processing the keratin fibers can either stay on them (for example, hair) or be washed off after application. In the latter case, the exposure time is money, depending on temperature (approximately 20 to 60 degrees Celsius, preferably from 30 to 50 degrees Celsius), is from 1 to 60 minutes, mainly from 5 to 20 minutes, and when the heat regenerating (fixation, restructuring and, if necessary, the associated increase in the volume) can be accelerated; therefore, the application of heat is preferred. At the end of exposure time, the hair can propulsives water and, if necessary, be washed with shampoo.

Suitable for use according to the invention ready forms of funds are primarily shampoos, conditioners, treatment, foam, fixers, gels, hair sprays, hair, hair dye, means for rendering hair, funds for dolgovremennoi waving, the latch means to Shine or brilliantine.

The tool can also be used as a means of pre-treatment prior to chemical and/or physical effects on keratin fibers, in particular, before staining, toning, bleaching hair or long before Curling to prevent damaging hair oxidizing action of these treatments.

Established that the use according to the invention products containing creatine, creatinine and/or their derivatives and/or their salts, allows according to the present invention significantly improve the structure of the pre-damaged keratin fibers, which is confirmed, moreover, a statistically highly significant increase in the tensile stress.

Measuring the reducing action

The definition of the amplifier required to break the hair to break, which is an indicator of the structural integrity of the cortex of the hair and, through this, a measure of the degree of damage is normal for these purposes, the measurement of stress-strain. From each clump choose 20 different hair and using computerized laser micrometer to determine the diameter of each hair. Then, using a measuring device according to the stress-strain (MIT 160/600 series Miniature Tensile Tester, serial No. 600.95.05.001, Fa. DIA-STRON Ltd., The Academy of Sciences of the lia) measured force, required to break individual hair.

From these separate, differing from each other different hair diameter, measured values disruptive force, is determined by the so-called strength of the beam under tension (CPD)of the individual values, whereas the diameter of the hair, is calculated breaking strength of the hair diameter 0.08 mm (mean diameter). Given the thickness of the hair, and then calculated per unit strength of a beam under tension (CN/Tex). The larger the numerical value of the strength of the beam under tension, the less damage to the hair.

Measurement of hair treated with shampoo containing creatine and free from creatine, gave the following results.

Damaged (bleached) hair treated with the shampoo of example 2, but without creatine (creatine was replaced by water): PPR=14,8+/-0,4 CN/Tex (set 17 hair strands of treated shampoo).

Damaged (bleached) hair treated with the shampoo of example 2 with 1 wt%. creatine: CPD=15,5+/-0,4 CN/Tex (installed on 19 hair strands of treated shampoo).

The difference between the above average values of statistically Vysocanska (significance level, the measured t-test: 99,9%).

The strength of the beam under tension when the content of 1 wt%. creatine was increased from 14.8 CN/Tex to 15.5 CN/Tex; it is suitable for the et increase of 4.7%.

Thus, the addition of creatine causes a marked strengthening of hair and, accordingly, restorative effect.

Measurement of improvement raschesyvaemost

The combability is also an important parameter for improving hair quality. A variety of external factors, such as certain cosmetic processing (bleaching, dyeing, permanent waving), air conditioning, frequent combs and brushes, worsen the combability, causing damage to the cuticle.

The principle of most of the methods of quantitative measurement of raschesyvaemost is to measure the force of raschesyvaemost), which is necessary to comb hair comb in strictly certain restrictive conditions.

In studies, this applies to automated equipment where mechanical grip selects from the storage strands to study and hang them on the hooks of the measuring device. Then strands several times successively automatically standing with constant speed, and each time the process of combing force was recorded combing in N (Newton) as a function of distance combing (length strands). Finally, these values of the strength of brushing was obtained from the average values of the strength of brushing according to the t distances tangle free. The smaller the strength of brushing, the better combability.

Measurement of hair treated with shampoo containing creatine and free from creatine, gave the following results.

Damaged (bleached) hair treated with the shampoo of example 2, but without creatine (creatine was replaced by water): the power of combing was 1.43+/-0,05 N (average value measured on the three-treated shampoo the strands of hair).

Damaged hair (bleached) were treated with the shampoo of example 2 with 1 wt%. creatine.

Power brushing amounted to 1.21+/-0,08 N (average value measured on the three-treated shampoo the strands of hair).

The difference between the above average values are statistically significant (significance level set t-test: 97,5%).

Power brushing is reduced when the content of keratin 1% weight. with 1,43 N to 1.21 N, approximately 15.3%. Adding keratin leads to a noticeable improvement of raschesyvaemost wet hair.

All the following percentage values are weight percent based on the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

The following examples explain the invention in more detail.

Examples

Example 1: hair Spray

the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid 2,00% weight

2 Amin-2-methyl-1-propanol 0,16% weight

Ethanol 37,84% weight

Cu is Athyn 0,50% weight

perfume oil 0.10% per weight

Propane/butane to 100.00% weight

Example 2: Shampoo for hair

laurelthirst sodium (25%water

solution) 40,0% weight

NaCl 4,0% weight

Creatine 1.0% weight

Water up to 100.0% weight

Example 3: Shampoo for hair

laurelthirst sodium (25%water

solution) 35,0% weight

NaCl 3.0% weight

Triethanolamine 4,0% weight

1,2-dibromo-2,4-dicyanobutane-2-Phenoxyethanol 0.1% weight

perfume oil 0.1% weight

Creatine 2.0% weight

Water up to 100.0% weight

Example 4: treatment for hair

glycerol monostearate 6.0% weight

alkoxylated lanolin 2.0% weight

cetyl alcohol 2.0% weight

A mixture of lanolin alcohol and vaseline

oil 1.0% weight

Tris-(oligoarthritis)-alkylammonium 1.5% weight

Hydroxyethylcellulose 20,0% weight

citric acid 0.1% weight

sorbic acid 0.1% weight

perfume oil 0.1% weight

Creatine 0.5% weight

Water up to 100.0% weight

Example 5: the Foam conditioning

copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and

vinylidenechloride 5,00% weight

Copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate

(PVP/PVA) 1,00% weight

polyoxyethylene-12-cetylstearyl alcohol to 0.15% weight

perfume oil 0.10% per weight

Creatine 1,00% weight

propane/butane 10,00% weight

Water up to 100.00% weight

Example 6: Brilliantin

wax candle 80,0% weight

vaseline oil 14.8% weight

Isopropylmyristate 4.6% weight/p>

perfume oil 0.5% weight

Creatine 0.1% weight

100,0 Gew.

Example 7: a Tool for long-term perms

thioglycolate acid (80%aqueous solution) 9.5% weight

ammonia (25%aqueous solution) 1.6% weight

ammonium carbonate is a 4.5% weight

Creatine 2.0% weight

perfume oil 0.2% weight

Water up to 100.0% weight

Example 8: the long-term Retainer perming

The hydrogen peroxide 4.6% weight

Citric acid 0.2% weight

Creatine 3.0% weight

perfume oil 0.1% weight

Water up to 100.0% weight

Example 9: an Oxidizer for hair dye in the form of a cream

stearyl alcohol 8,00% weight

vaseline oil 13,00% weight

Lanolin 6,00% weight

perfume additive to 0.30 wt%

p-toluylenediamine 0,70% weight

Resorcinol 0.05% weight

Aminophenol 0,06% weight

ethylenediaminetetraacetate (EDTA) 0.20% weight

Ammonia (25%aqueous solution) 2,00% weight

sodium sulfite 1,00% weight

Creatine 1,00% weight

Water up to 100.00% weight

1. The use of creatine, creatinine and/or their salts in the medium for fixation, consolidation, restructuring, restoration, or stabilization of keratin fibers, or to enhance Shine, volume, or raschesyvaemost keratin fibers.

2. The use according to claim 1 for tired and/or damaged keratin fibers.

3. The use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the tool is brought into contact with the keratin fibers before, during and the after effects on keratin fibers chemical and/or physical factors.

4. The use according to claim 3, characterized in that the product is used for pre-treatment prior to chemical and/or physical treatment of keratin fibers.

5. Use according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the means used to prevent or reduce damage to the internal structure or to restore (restructuring) keratin fibers.

6. Use according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the chemical treatment includes dyeing, tinting, bleaching or long-term deformation.

7. Use according to one of claims 1 to 6 for the cosmetic treatment of sensitive, fragile and/or thin keratin fibers.

8. Use according to one of claims 1 to 7 to increase or enhance the splendor of the keratin fibers.

9. Use according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the creatine, creatinine and/or their salts are contained in the medium in amounts of from 0.001 to 30.0 wt.% in relation to the total number.

10. Use according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the creatine, creatinine and/or their salts are contained in the medium in amounts of from 0.05 to 1.0 wt.% in relation to the total number.

11. Use according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the tool is in the form of a solution, emulsion, foam, cream or gel.

12. Use according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the keratin fibres which are of human hair products.

13. Use according to one of claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the tool is brought into contact with the keratin fibers for a period of 1 to 60 minutes at a temperature of between 20 and 60°C.

 

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