Application of aminosilicones of particular structure for preliminary treatment at either direct or oxidative dyeing technique of keratin fibers

FIELD: perfumery industry.

SUBSTANCE: the present innovation deals with the method for dyeing (either direct or oxidative) of customer's hair due to preliminary treatment by applying aminosilicone-containing composition. The present innovation enables to improve the development of hair color, its state after dyeing and dyestuff's stability to shampoo.

EFFECT: higher efficiency of application.

30 cl, 1 ex

The object of the present invention is used for pre-processing in direct or oxidation dyeing keratin fibers person, in particular hair compositions containing at least one aminosilicone particular structure.

The subject of the invention is also a method of direct or oxidation dyeing keratin fibers person, in particular hair, comprising pre-treatment with the composition containing at least one aminosilicone particular structure.

There are two main types of coloring keratin fibers. Direct staining, which is used in the presence or in the absence of oxidizing agents, direct dyes and/or pigments, which are painted molecules, giving the fibers a temporary color that fades after several treatments shampoo, and so-called oxidation dyeing, which are precursors of oxidation dyes and oxidizing agent, which gives the fiber the color is more stable than the previous one.

There is a need to improve the behavior of these dyes on the fibers, particularly in sensitized fibers, since the latter are more porous and less fix the dyes. Along with this, the COI is whether the oxidizing agent leads to certain destruction keratin fibers.

In this regard, there is a need to limit this destruction and its consequences in relation to the cosmetic condition of the fiber.

After major studies on this issue the applicant a completely unexpected and surprisingly found that the use of pre-processing on the keratin fibres of a person, in particular hair compositions containing at least one aminosilicone particular structure, allows to solve the mentioned problem.

This discovery is the basis of the present invention.

In addition, pre-treatment improves the resistance of direct or oxidation colors, in particular, on the effect of shampoos.

The first subject of the invention is concerned, therefore, the application for pre-treatment under oxidative dyeing and/or direct dyeing of keratin fibers person, in particular hair compositions containing at least one aminosilicone the following formulas I or II.

The purpose of these applications is to improve the color development, in particular, on sensitised hair and/or condition of the fibers after dyeing, in particular in the case of staining with the oxidant, and the resistance of paints to shampoos.

Under the improvement of fiber refers to the reduction of porosity or alkaline rastvorimo and fiber and improved cosmetic properties, in particular smoothness, softness and ability to combing and styling.

This effect is stable, i.e. long-term.

The porosity is measured by fixing at 37^aboutC and pH 10 for 2 min 0,15%2-nitro-p-phenylenediamine in a mixture of ethanol/buffer with pH 10 (volume ratio of 10/90).

Alkaline solubility corresponds to the weight loss of a 100-mg sample of keratin fibers under the action of decinormal sodium hydroxide for 30 min at 65^aboutC.

The second subject of the invention relates to a method of dyeing which consists in applying, in the first stage, the keratin fibers are human, in particular hair compositions containing at least one aminosilicone formula I or II with subsequent rinsing of the fibers or without rinsing and then, in a second stage, applying a direct or oxidative colouring composition for a period of time sufficient for color development, followed, after rinsing or without rinsing, possible shampooing and drying.

Aminosilicone

Below is aminosilicone formula I or II according to the invention is:

in which:

m and n denote the numbers, giving the sum (n+m), which can vary, in particular, from 1 to 1000, mostly from 50 to 250 and, more preferably, from 100 to 200,

in this case n may denote a number from 0 on the 999, in particular, from 49 to 249 and, more preferably, from 125 to 175, and m may denote a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and, more preferably, from 1 to 5;

R₁,R₂andR₃identical or different, denote a hydroxy radical or₁-C₄-alkoxy, and at least one of the radicals R₁-R₃denotes an alkoxy radical.

The alkoxy radical is mainly a methoxy radical.

The molar ratio of hydroxy/alkoxy is mainly from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1, preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and, more preferably, equal to 0.3.

Aminosilicone formula I is srednevekovoy molecular weight predominantly from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and preferably from 3500 to 200,000.

in which:

p and q represent the numbers, giving the sum (p+q), which can vary, in particular, from 1 to 1000, mostly from 50 to 350, and more preferably, from 150 to 250,

thus p may denote a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 349 and, more preferably, from 159 to 239, and q may denote a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and, more preferably, from 1 to 5;

R₁andR₂identical or different, denote a hydroxy radical or₁-C₄-alkoxy, and at least one of the radicals R₁and R₂denotes the radical is laksi.

The alkoxy radical is mainly a methoxy radical.

The molar ratio of hydroxy/alkoxy is preferably from 1:0.8 to 1:1,1, preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and, more preferably, equal to 1:0.95 to.

Aminosilicone formula II has srednevekovoy molecular weight predominantly from 2000 to 200,000, preferably from 5,000 to 100,000, and still more preferably from 10000 to 50000.

Srednevekovye molecular weight of aminosilicones measured by gel chromatography (GPC) at room temperature in a polystyrene equivalent. As columns are columns μ styragel, and as additionally separated by - THF, flow rate which is equal to 1 ml/min Inject 200 μl of 0.5% (by weight) solution of silicone in THF. Detection is performed using refractometry and UV spectrometry.

Commodity products, such as silicones structure I or II, can include one or more other aminosilicones, the structure of which is different from structures I and II.

The product containing aminosilicone structure I, offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL ADM 652®.

The product containing aminosilicone structure II, offered by the company WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®.

In that case, when using aminosilicone, the most attractive is their use as emulsion, oil-in-water”. Emulsion “is aslo in the water” may include one or more surfactants. Surfactants can be of any nature, but preferred cationic and/or nonionic surfactants.

The average particle size of the silicone in the emulsion typically is in the range from 3 to 500 nm.

In particular, for aminosilicones formula II preferably using microemulsions with particle size from 5 to 60 nm and, more preferably, from 10 to 50 nm.

In accordance with the invention, can be used in the microemulsion aminosilicones offered by the company WACKER under the name FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020®.

Aminosilicone formula I or II pick up mainly so that the contact angle with water of a hair treated with a composition called silicone according to the invention containing 2% AB (active substance), were in the range from 90 to 180^aboutand preferably from 90 to 130^about(inclusive).

A composition comprising one or more aminosilicones formula I or II is mainly such that the contact angle of the hair treated with the mentioned composition ranges from 90 to 180^aboutand preferably from 90 to 130^about(inclusive).

Measurement of contact angle based on immersing hair in distilled water. It consists in estimating the forces acting on the hair from water while immersing hair in distilled water and during its extraction. Measured thus power directly from the are closely linked with the contact angle θ between water and the surface of the hair. Hair is considered hydrophilic if the angle θ ranges from 0 to 90^aboutand hydrophobic, if this angle is in the range from 90 to 180^about.

The test is carried out with strands of natural hair, pre-bleached in the same conditions and then washed.

Each strand weighing 1 g is placed in a mold with a diameter of 75 mm and then evenly cover the 5 ml of the test composition. Lock leave in this state for 15 min at room temperature and then rinsed for 30 sec. Wrung strand leave outdoors up until it is completely dry.

For each evaluation analyze 10 hair subjected to the same treatment. Each sample shall be recorded on the precision microbalance, dipped from the tip filled with distilled water vessel. Used scales DCA (Dynamic Contact Angle Analyser) by CAHN Instruments measure the force (F)acting on the hair side of the water.

In parallel, measured under the microscope the perimeter of the hair (R).

Average wetting power of 10 hair and the cross-section of the analyzed hair allow to obtain the contact angle of the hair with water according to the formula:

F=P*lv*cosθ

where F is the power of wetting, expressed in Newtons, P is the perimeter of the hair in meters, lv is the surface tension at the boundary of the liquid/in Danau pairs in j/m ²and θ is the contact angle.

Product SLM 28020® WACKER at a concentration of 12% in water (i.e. 2% of AV), subjected to the above test, gives a contact angle of 93^about.

Aminosilicone use in compositions for pre-processing mainly in the amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight of the total composition. This amount preferably ranges from 0.1 to 15 and, more preferably, from 0.5 to 10% of the mass.

Composition for pretreatment may contain all the ingredients traditionally used in cosmetics and, in particular, in the field of hair care. It can, in particular, contain additional surfactants and/or additional polymers. These surfactants and polymers may be nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric nature. Additional polymers particularly preferred aminosilicone other than aminosilicones according to the invention.

Composition for pre-treatment has a pH in the range from 2 to 11 and preferably from 4 to 9.

The composition may be in various forms, such as lotions, gels, creams, shampoos, pencils, foam, sprays. In the case of some of these forms, the composition can be packaged in a bottle with a pump or aerosol container. In the case of an aerosol composition combined with the propellant, which may be, for example, alkane or alkanes is I mix, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, carbon dioxide or halogenoalkane, and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred according to the invention, the form is the form of shampoo.

In this case, the composition comprises at least one surface-active agent, which is mainly anionic. It is preferable that the composition contains a mixture of surfactants, of which at least one was anionic surface-active agent, and the other or others would be predominantly non-ionic or amphoteric.

Composition for pre-treatment can be applied as in the mode of “rinsing”and in the “no rinse”, which means subsequent use or not use rinsing.

In the first case, the exposure time of the pre-treatment composition ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, mainly from 30 seconds to 15 minutes.

The application temperature of the composition for pre-treatment can vary from 10 to 70^aboutC. Mainly the composition is applied at a temperature of from 10 to 60^aboutC and preferably at room temperature.

The nature and concentration of the dye present in the ink compositions, are not determinative.

In the case of direct dyeing (in the presence or in the absence of oxidative agent is) coloring composition containing at least one dye, chosen from neutral, acidic or cationic nitrobenzene direct dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic direct azo dyes or marinovich dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic quinone, in particular antrahinonovye, direct dyes, azine stains direct dyes, triarylmethane direct dyes, indinavir direct dyes, and natural direct dyes and mixtures thereof.

In the case of oxidation dyeing dyeing composition containing at least one oxidizable base.

Oxidized bases are selected from oxidized bases conventionally used in oxidation dyeing, among which, in particular, to call o - and p-phenylendiamine, double base, o - and p-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and their salt adducts with acids.

Usually the oxidation dye compositions contain one or more of the actual pigment substances.

Suitable for use the actual pigment substances are actual pigment substances conventionally used in oxidation dye compositions, i.e. m-phenylenediamine, m-aminophenol and m-diphenolate, mono - or polyhydroxyalkane derivatives of naphthalene, sesamol and its derivatives, and heterocyclic compounds such as indole, the actual pigment substances, the Indus is linovia the actual pigment substances, pyridine actual pigment substances and their salt adducts with acids.

The nature of the used oxidizing agent for lightening direct dyeing (direct staining with an oxidizing agent or oxidising colouring is not decisive.

The oxidizing agent is chosen mainly from the group comprising hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, bromates or ferricyanides alkali metals, Persol, such as perborates and persulfates. As the oxidizing agent can also be used one or more oxidoreductase enzymes, such as laccase, peroxidase and two-electron oxidoreductase (such as uricase), in some cases in the presence of the donor or of the corresponding cofactor.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention. The latter, however, is not limited to these options for implementation.

EXAMPLES

Prepared following 3 songs for pre-treatment: A, B, C (composition expressed in grams of active substance (AB))

The composition was applied to a lock of hair with 90% white hair.

After exposure for 5 min and without intermediate rinsing, the hair was dyed oxidative dye MAJIRREL® company L'OREAL.

Were then estimated the porosity of the hair and their alkali solubility by using the techniques described above.

The following results are obtained:

Staining with MAJIRREL®:

The porosity of 24±1

Alkaline solubility of 9.4±05

Pre-treatment with subsequent staining with MAJIRREL®:

The porosity of 19±4

Alkaline solubility 5,8±0,5

Control (untreated and undyed hair):

The porosity of 17±1

Alkaline solubility 6,3±0,7

Thus, the hair is subjected to pre-treatment according to the invention, were less shattered.

The composition was applied on the hair of the eight models.

Then without rinsing was applied dye KARIZMA CRÈCOLOUR ME® firm SOFT SHEEN.

It was found that after the treatment the hair is soft, light and easily combed.

The results were better than those that were obtained for comparison with pre-treatment prior to staining of gamma KARIZMA CRÈME COLOUR representing a ready means for pre-processing that does not contain aminosilicone formula I or II according to the invention.

The composition was also applied for 15 min at 60^aboutWith moderately bleached hair. The hair was then subjected to palasciano.

Then on the hair were applied:

on the one hand, a means for direct staining EXPRESSION® company L'OREAL (duration 15 min);

on the other hand, a mixture of p-phenylenediamine (3•10^-3mol/100 g), and hydrochloride of 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol (3•10^{-3 mol/100 g) in a traditional basis for oxidative dyeing RECITAL® company L'OREAL, which before use, mix with an equal weight of hydrogen peroxide solution with a titer of 20 volumes (the duration of a mixture of 30 min).}

^{After that evaluate the development of painting using colorimetric parameter L* L*a*b*. The following results are obtained:}

^{EXPRESSION®: pre-treatment with silicone: L*=38}

^{pre-treatment with water: L*=40}

^{RECITAL ®: pre-treatment with silicone: L*=38}

^{pre-treatment with water: L*=40}

^{These indicative results suggest the best course of the process with pre-treatment according to the invention (the intensity is higher, the smaller L*).}

^{The composition is applied for 10 min on natural hair, then rinse. After that put a traditional remedy for oxidative dyeing. As a result, the condition of the hair was satisfactory, and cosmetic properties - good (soft and smooth).}

^{1. A method of coloring keratin fibers of human rights, particularly the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying, in the first stage, the fiber composition for pre-treatment, containing at least one aminosilicone the following formulas I or II:}

^{in which (formula )}

^{m and n denote the numbers, giving the sum (n+m), which varies from 1 to 1000, mostly from 50 to 250 and, more preferably, from 100 to 200,}

^{while n denotes a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 249, more preferably from 125 to 175, a m denotes a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1 to 5;}

^{R₁, R₂and R₃identical or different, denote a hydroxy radical or₁-C₄-alkoxy, and at least one of the radicals R₁-R₃denotes an alkoxy radical;}

^{in which (formula II):}

^{p and q represent the numbers, giving the sum (p+q), which varies from 1 to 1000, mostly from 50 to 350, and more preferably from 150 to 250,}

^{while p denotes a number from 0 to 999, in particular from 49 to 349, more preferably from 159 to 239, and q denotes a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more preferably from 1 to 5;}

^{R₁and R₂identical or different, denote a hydroxy radical or a C₁-C₄-alkoxy, and at least one of the radicals R₁and R₂denotes an alkoxy radical;}

^{then in the second stage after rinsing the fibers with or without rinsing in applying direct or oxidative colouring composition, leaving it on long enough DL the color development, subsequent rinsing of the fibers or without rinsing and drying of the fibers.}

^{2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the radical With₁-C₄-alkyloxy is a methoxy radical.}

^{3. The method according to any of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the molar ratio of hydroxy/alkoxy in aminosilicone formula I is 0.2:1-0,4:1, preferably from 0.25:1-0,35:1, more preferably equal to 0,3.}

^{4. The method according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the molar ratio of hydroxy/alkoxy in aminosilicone formula II is predominantly 1:0.8 to 1:1,1, preferably 1:0.9-1:1, even more preferably 1:0.95 to.}

^{5. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that aminosilicone formula I is srednevekovoy molecular weight predominantly 2000-1000000, preferably 3500-200000.}

^{6. The method according to any one of claims 1, 2 and 4, characterized in that aminosilicone formula II has srednevekovoy molecular weight predominantly 2000-200000, preferably 5000-100000, even more preferably 10000-50000.}

^{7. The method according to any of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that aminosilicone formula I or II is in the form of an emulsion of the “oil-in-water containing surface-active agents.}

^{8. The method according to claim 7, wherein the emulsion further comprises at least one cationic and/or nonionic surface-active agent.</>}

^{9. The method according to any of claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the particle size of the silicone in the emulsion is in the range 3-500 nm, mainly 5-60 nm, more preferably 10-50 nm.}

^{10. The method according to any of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that aminosilicone formula I or II are chosen so that the contact angle with water of a hair treated with a composition called silicone containing 2% AB (active substance), was in the range of 90-180° (inclusive).}

^{11. The method according to claim 10, characterized in that aminosilicone formula I or II are chosen so that the contact angle with water of a hair treated with a composition called silicone according to the invention containing 2% AB (active substance), was in the range of 90-130° (inclusive).}

^{12. The method according to claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the composition contains at least one aminosilicone formula I or II, are chosen so that the contact angle of the hair treated with this composition was in the range of 90-180° (inclusive).}

^{13. The method according to any of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that aminosilicone formula I or II are contained in the composition for pre-treatment in an amount of 0.01-20% by weight of the total composition.}

^{14. The method according to item 13, wherein aminosilicone formula I or II are contained in the pre-treatment composition in an amount of 0.1-15% by weight of the total composition.}

^{15. The method according to 14, characterized in that aminosilicone formula I or II are contained in the composition for pre-treatment in the amount of 0.5-10% by weight of the total composition.}

^{16. The method according to any of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the composition for pre-treatment is in the form of lotions, gels, creams, shampoos, sticks, foams, sprays.}

^{17. The method according to any of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the composition for pretreatment Packed in a bottle with a pump or aerosol container.}

^{18. The method according to 17, characterized in that the composition for pre-treatment comprises at least one propellant selected from the group comprising alkanes, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, carbon dioxide and halogenoalkane.}

^{19. The method according to any of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the composition for pre-treatment comprises at least one surface-active agent, nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric nature.}

^{20. The method according to claim 19, characterized in that the composition for pre-treatment contains a blend of surface-active agents, comprising at least one anionic surface-active agent, while the other surface-active agents are nonionic or amphoteric.}

^{21. The method is of any of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the composition for pre-treatment comprises at least one additional polymer, different from the silicones of formula I or II.}

^{22. The method according to item 21, wherein the polymer is non-ionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric nature.}

^{23. The method according to item 22, wherein the polymer is aminosilicone different from the silicones of formula I or II.}

^{24. The method according to any of the preceding paragraphs, characterized in that the composition for pre-treatment has a pH in the range 2-11, mainly 4-9.}

^{25. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that it allows you to improve color.}

^{26. The method according A.25 to improve the development of painting on sensitised hair.}

^{27. The method according to p to improve the condition of the fibers, in particular, after staining with the use of an oxidizing agent.}

^{28. The method according to item 27 to decrease the porosity of the fibers.}

^{29. The method according to item 27 to reduce the alkali solubility of the fibers.}

^{30. The method according to claim 1 to improve the stability of colouring to the shampoo.}

^{31. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 30, characterized in that the exposure time of the composition for pre-treatment ranges from a few seconds up to 60 minutes, mainly from 30 s to 15 min}