Vegetable dyes and use thereof in colour compositions, particularly in cosmetic compositions

FIELD: chemistry.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to vegetable dyes obtained from the coloured part of plant types, the cell tissue of which contains iridisomes that are responsible for colouring of said part. In particular, the invention relates to a blue dye obtained from seed skin of plant type Ravenala madagascariensis. The invention also relate to compositions containing said dye, particularly cosmetic compositions, especially meant for paining skin or external formations on the body.

EFFECT: invention provides cheap and safe production of a natural dye with a bright colour with a possible interference effect from a vegetable ultrastructure without denaturing thereof.

20 cl, 4 ex

 

The technical FIELD

The aim of the present invention are new vegetable dyes and their application in colored compositions, in particular in cosmetic compositions.

In particular, the invention extends to the preparation of colored cosmetic compositions, in particular intended for up skin or outer formations on the body. The invention is also applicable to colored compositions of any type intended for use in other industries such as food industry, industry, pharmaceuticals, printing inks, dyes, coating materials and products used in the field of fine art and decoration in General.

PRIOR art

The term "pigments" in most cases means dyestuffs insoluble in the painted environment.

In the cosmetic industry uses, as a rule, two types of pigments.

More specifically, in the cosmetic industry and especially in decorative cosmetics use pigments, in particular, plant, animal or mineral origin, causing the effect of staining due to selective absorption of certain wavelengths of incident light, when they dispersed the environment, for example, cosmetic compositions.

Among the pigments of vegetable origin should be mentioned Indigo, extracted dye obtained by the fermentation of the leaves of Indigofera suffruticosa or Indigofera tinctoria.

It should be noted that Indigo is practically insoluble in water and alcohol.

I should also mention the connection type anthocyanins, optionally modified with cations of metals.

The color effects produced by such pigments, dispergirovannykh in the environment caused by the phenomenon of selective absorption of such compounds of certain wavelengths of incident light.

Light, additional to the absorbed light is scattered by the material and determines its color.

The color thus obtained, often referred to as "pigment color.

Such pigments are widely used in compositions in many industries, for example, in the manufacture of printing inks or paints, as well as in the cosmetic industry, in particular, in decorative cosmetics.

Article Cary Pirone, entitled "Aril Structure and pigments in the Strelitziaceae (Aryl structure and pigments of plants of family strelitzia) (abstract id: 564), published in the journal of Botany 2006, July 28, 2006, available in the form of excerpts on the Internet at the address http://www.2006.botanyconference.org/engine/search/index.php refers to the pigments extracted from plants Ravenala madagascariensis, the chemical structure of which is uncertain.

When this pigment is identified as pigmentary open complex of proteins that have a blue color.

The second article by the same author Cary Pirone published in the journal of Botany Interbiology 2007, July 7, 2007, an excerpt from her available on the Internet at the address http://www.2007.botanyconference.org/engine/search/index.php.

In this case, it is shown that the study refers, in particular, to the identification of two rare pigments, orange and yellow, found in P. Guayanense and S. Nicolai, the chemical structure of which was determined by mass spectrometry and NMR.

Abstract Database WPI Week 200741, link AN 2007-427 923, refers to the patent application of Japan JP 2007112931 from Toyo Ink Manufacturing Co Ltd relating to the blue pigment obtained by alcohol extraction with an organic solvent, aliphatic ketone, and so forth, added to the extract colors Clitoria ternatea, which can be used as an additive in food, cosmetic products, pharmaceutical products and printing ink.

In addition, article Zhang Lianfu, entitled "Method for fast extracting lycopene (How fast extraction of lycopene)"referenced in the Database WPI Week 2008, AN 2008-M13793, refers to the patent application CN 101121631 name Jiangnan University, published 2/13/08 concerning the extraction of lycopene.

In addition, the abstract published in the Database WPI, link AN 2003-857780, regard is seeking to patent application JP 2003/277641 in the name of Ichimaru Pharcos Inc, concerning the new pigment derivative isolated from the roots of red-which doesn't have any allergic effect when in contact with skin and having improved range of pH stability, good thermal stability and filterability, and used as a colorant in cosmetic compositions. It is established that the pigment is derived from the roots of red-represents the complex formed by adding a solution containing an ion of a metal selected from aluminium, iron, magnesium, zinc, copper and manganese derived dicarboxylic acid and hydrolyzed vegetable protein (see summary of this document).

Patent document EP 1191071 also applies to anthocyanin dye and the method of its production from organic material.

And, finally, the patent document WO 2008/129215 (Diana Naturals) refers to the coloring of food compositions containing the modified colorants of the anthocyanin family and the way bathochromic modification of these dyes.

In the cosmetic industry there is another type of pigments of natural or synthetic origin, consisting of mother of pearl. This second type of pigment acts by a different mechanism dyeing composition as producing the color in this case is connected with the phenomenon of wave interference of the reflected light is on the surface of the pearl.

This is another way of color formation is not associated with the mechanism of light absorption of the chemical substance, and is associated with the phenomenon of wave interference of reflected light on the structures present on the surface of the observed object.

Therefore, these surface structures create the effect of dyeing, called iridescence, characterized in that the colors change depending on the angle of observation or, depending on the angle of incidence of the illuminating light.

These colors differ from pigmented colors and is often referred to as a "structural color".

This second method of obtaining a color has many animals, including insects and birds.

As an example we can mention certain colors of bird feathers or wings of butterflies.

However, although structural colors are rather widely distributed in the animal world, they are very rare in the plant world and were discovered only recently and has a limited number of plant species.

Thus, the opening of flowers, formed due to the interference of some rare plant species has forced researchers to look at the dyes obtained from plants, and also to wonder about the environmental advantage of plants in the development of such iridimi paints (Lee et al, Nature, 1975, 2445, 50-51).

Although NATO at present the phenomenon of iridescence and structures responsible for it, not well understood, it is possible to establish that the effect of dyeing product resulting from the phenomenon of interference of light on its surface, are responsible ultrastructure, commonly called "iridology".

Among plant species, of which some cellular tissues contain iridotomy, mention can be made of plant species in the family Strelitzias, in particular, plant species Ravenala madagascariensis, plant species of the family eleocarpus, for example, Elaeocarpus angustifolius Blume, plant species of the family kalievyh, in particular, plant species Delarbrea michieana, plant species of the family miralievich, in particular, plant species Danaea nodosa, plant species of the family imanuvilov, in particular, plant species Trichomanes elegans, plant species of the genus Selaginella, for example, Selaginella willdenowii, plant species of the family Kochetygova, in particular, plant species Diplazium tomentosum, plant species family Lindsay, in particular, plant species Lindsaea lucida, plant species of begonia family, in particular, plant species Begonia pavonina, plant species of the family melsomvik, in particular, plant species Phyllagathis rotundifolia.

Researchers have identified and studied the ultrastructure in the epidermal cells of the fetus Australian plants Delarbre micheana (Lee DW, et al., Int. J. Plant Sci, 2000, 161 (2), 297-300).

The authors hypothesized colour, owing to the phenomenon of constructive interference.

This interference phenomenon is called the region of the surface cells of the epidermis of a plant, having the form of a complex multilayer structures based on cellulose.

Thus, the visual effect generated by the plant depends on the thickness of these polymolecular layers, responsible for the mechanism of light interference, and this thickness is several tens of nanometers.

In the case of species Delarbrea micheana these ultrastructure localized in the epidermal cells of plants in the area bordering the environment, and have a thickness, measured approximately 75 nm.

Even though they are not characterized fully, it can be assumed that such plant ultrastructure responsible for the color effects produced by the plant consist of thin layers of hydrated cellulose and/or spirally arranged cellulose fibrils, thus creating the effect of a homogeneous staining that does not depend on the angle of observation, due to their spatial distribution.

Get the colors and tones are natural, so the use of such plant ultra structures, structural pigments may be an alternative to the cent is made to traditional methods of dyeing with dyes or pigments in the form of extracted and purified molecules or aggregates.

However, until the present time the use of such plant ultra structures, as colored pigments, is not widespread due to the fact that the effect of the painting stems from the unstable location of macromolecules, collapsing during the execution of the extraction process.

The PURPOSE of the INVENTION

The main objective of this invention is the provision of dye from painted plant material, including plant ultrastructure, without denaturation.

The second main objective of the invention is the provision of dye from painted plant material, including plant ultrastructure, without denaturation, to integrate it in the composition, in particular in cosmetic compositions, in order to give the last color, which is essentially the color of the painted parts are treated plants.

The third major aim of the invention is the provision of reliable, reproducible, and cost-effective way of obtaining such a dye from painted plant material, including plant ultrastructure, without denaturation.

The invention allows for the first time to resolve these technical problems with unexpected safe and reliable method that can be used in isulan in industry and cosmetics.

A BRIEF DESCRIPTION of the INVENTION

Quite unexpectedly, the authors present invention has been extracted from plant tissues, including such plant ultrastructure, painted product, hereinafter referred to as "dye of the invention", a very bright color which is the color of the painted parts are treated plants.

The term "dye of the invention" means the dyed product obtained by extraction of plant tissue, you need to extract the color. This colored product possesses the characteristic color of the treated plant tissue, with the specified color is due to the presence of plant ultra structures or "iridium", as disclosed above.

Along with the ability to identify data ultrastructure using techniques such as electron microscopy or x-ray fluorescence spectrometry, specialists in this field will be able to visually verify that the data ultrastructure responsible for staining, not destroyed.

Thus, the dye of the invention includes plant ultrastructure, directly responsible for the color effects that make up a significant portion of the dye. However, additionally, it can include a fraction, referred to as "auxiliary faction" or "the sub is th part", extracted from a plant simultaneously with eredicane, and this fraction may be of different nature depending on the plants from which is extracted the dye of the invention. This auxiliary faction, not directly contributing to the effect of dyeing, can play the role of the media, a substrate or a stabilizer and does not necessarily need to be removed at the time of receipt of the painted composition. In fact, it may be that the presence of this auxiliary faction will facilitate the work with the dye of the invention or will give him an additional effect, which would be useful, for example, to improve the texture of the composition, which add dye for coloring

Not wishing to prejudge the results of structural studies of the extracted dyes, at this stage there is no doubt that the color of the product of the invention is associated with the absence of denaturation vegetable ultra structures present in iridium, which consequently contained in the colorant of the invention.

Thus, the authors of the present invention was able to extract the dye from colored plant material, including plant ultrastructure, without denaturation and integrate it into the composition in order to give the last color which is the color of the colored part of processing the aqueous plants.

Thus, extraction of the dye of the invention of the painted plant material, including iridotomy enables innovative way of colouring compositions of various types, such as cosmetic compositions, pharmaceuticals, food products, printing ink, paints, coating materials and products used in the field of fine arts and art design in General.

The dyes obtained in this way can make the compositions in which they are incorporated, new shades.

In addition, these dyes exhibit stability and safety, which is an additional guarantee that the properties inherent in the compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions in which they are dispersed, will be saved.

And finally, they are insoluble in water and all commonly used solvents and are compatible with non-aqueous additives usually used in cosmetic compositions, which makes particularly preferred their use as colored pigments dispersed in cosmetic compositions.

Thus, the invention relates to colored vegetable extract, and specified the extract is obtained from plant material is formed from or contains painted the gunning fabric, themselves contain iridotomy.

In particular, the invention relates to a new dye, obligated its coloring and coloring properties that the authors of the present invention were able to develop a method of extraction patterns responsible for the staining of plant material, without its destruction, leading to a stable colored product that can be used as a pigment, in particular in the cosmetic industry.

The invention also relates to a method used for extraction of this plant-dye, without denaturation.

The invention also relates to cosmetic compositions, in particular intended for decorative cosmetics containing such dyes.

The invention also relates to a method for dyeing compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, in particular intended for decorative cosmetics.

In addition, the invention relates to method up, comprising applying a cosmetic composition containing such a dye.

DETAILED description of the INVENTION

More specifically, in accordance with the first object, the invention relates to dyes of vegetable origin, obtained from the painted parts plant species, cellular tissue which contain iridi the ohms, responsible for staining the specified part. Such a dye may be waxy, solid or pasty form. In the case of receiving a blue dye last successfully obtained from the rind of the plant family Ravenala madagascariensis.

In accordance with the second object, the invention relates to pigmented compositions, particularly cosmetic compositions, in particular, to colored cosmetic compositions intended for up skin or outer formations on the body, containing a dispersion of a dye plant origin in accordance with the first object.

In accordance with the third object, the invention relates to a method of extraction of dyes of vegetable origin, in accordance with the first object.

In accordance with the fourth object, the invention relates to a method for preparing colored or ink compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, comprising an introduction to the specified composition at least one dye in accordance with the first object of the invention or obtained by a method in accordance with the third object of the invention.

In accordance with the fifth object, the invention relates to method up skin or outer formations on the body, such as the eyelashes, the hair or the nails, comprising caused the e for at least part of the skin or outdoor education on body cosmetic compositions in accordance with the second object or obtained in accordance with the fourth object or containing a dye in accordance with the third object.

According to a particularly preferred variant of all these aspects, the plant material from which to obtain the dye of the invention, is a peel seed plants Ravenala madagascariensis.

It is clear that the second and fourth objects of the invention defined above are applied to colored or coloring the cosmetic compositions can, without much difficulty for experts in a given field of technology to be used for compositions in many other areas, such as pharmaceuticals, food products, printing ink, paints, coating materials and products used in the field of fine arts and art design in General.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will be understood when reading the following detailed description and examples.

As was previously disclosed, the invention stems from the discovery of its authors preparation of the dye from the colored part of the plant species, the cellular tissue which contain iridotomy responsible for the colouring of this plant part.

As was previously disclosed, iridotomy responsible for painting plants, from which is extracted the dye of the invention, as it is known, is formed extremely fragile ultra structures. Due to the fact obtaining a dye of the invention requires the use of a very soft way, do not destroy the structure iridotomy.

The authors of the present invention have found that to achieve this effect proved to be particularly favorable to expose part of the plant containing iridotomy responsible for painting, stage, during which plant cells included in the cell tissues containing iridotomy at least partially decompartmentalized in the presence of a liquid medium for the release of the painted product and capture this liquid medium.

Apparently, for producing these eredicane color effects requires that these iridotomy after extraction had the structure not changed in comparison with the structure of those same iridium in the cellular tissue of plants or parts of plants, in which they produce the effect of dyeing.

Iridotomy present in the liquid medium in which they accumulate, while maintaining their Undenatured and functional status, produce coloration of the same order or the same color cellular tissue, from which the extracted data structure.

To at least partially decompartmentalizing plant cells, it is preferable to use at least one external energy source.

According to one particularly preferred variants of the invention, the at measures the partial decompartmentalization plant cells is carried out using at least one external energy source, in particular, by mechanical mixing, for example, with a magnetic stirrer, homogenizer or the mill.

According to another particularly preferred variant of the invention, at least a partial decompartmentalization plant cells carry out under the action of ultrasound in the presence of a liquid medium.

It was found that the use of ultrasound is particularly effective in the context of the present invention.

In particular, under the action of ultrasound in the liquid micro-bubbles are formed due to the known effect of cavitation.

These micro-bubbles pulsate under the action of ultrasonic waves and as a result grow to a critical size, after which explode inside and then during this collapse restore its energy in the form of acoustic waves.

Specialists in this field of technology is not difficult to adjust the frequency ultrasound using standard tests, in particular, by regulating the colors carry out the liquid. Of course, the optimum frequency will depend on the processed plant material.

Thus, in the case of the preferred plant material used in accordance with the invention, namely, the seed husk Ravenala madagascariensis, preferably will be selected frequencies in the range of 27 kHz.

For the more efficient separation of plant cells can also be treated plant material mechanical stirring, combined with the use of ultrasound.

Purpose of the use of ultrasound or any other means for at least partial decompartmentalization plant cells is the release of the ultra structures responsible for staining, without denaturation for release of a colored product.

Thus, the liquid medium captures the released structure, separating it from the pulp, which then can be removed, for example, by filtering.

Fluid then subjected to stage filtration to release the product of the invention from at least part of the pulp remnants kept on the filter.

Generally speaking, the dye according to the invention are prepared in accordance with the method allows to allocate iridotomy from plant material without denaturation their structure responsible for the effect of staining due to constructive interference.

In accordance with the optional variant of this method, the plant material is treated by a suitable method at the stage of extraction such as to remove part of the waxy material contained in the specified plant material. Such pre-processing of plant material preferably can be carried out with the use of CO2in the supercritical or decrit the logical condition. Partially deparaffinizing plant material was further subjected to extraction as described above, to accumulate iridium and the remaining paraffin fraction. Optional stage pre-treatment allows to obtain the dye, the visual properties of which differ essentially from the properties of the product obtained without the use of a pre-processing stage, by changing the respective ratios of iridium and waxy material in the final dye.

Thus, the invention also relates to a method of extraction iridium responsible for the effect of dyeing, the method is not denaturised their structure.

As is evident from the foregoing disclosure, iridotomy can be extracted together with auxiliary fraction of plant material.

The presence of iridium painted in plant tissues can be demonstrated by various means known to the experts in this field, in particular, by using electron microscopy or x-ray fluorescence spectrometry.

According to one of the preferred embodiments, colored tissue cell of plant origin, including the above structure, is exposed to ultrasound in a liquid medium, the result of this stage is Deco is partmentalized plant cells under the action of micro bubbles, produced by cavitation.

Under the action so produced microbubble structure responsible for the staining off of plant cells in which they are not being denaturirovannyj.

As has been disclosed previously in the literature a number of plant species, part of the tissue which contains iridotomy.

All these plant parts can be treated using the method according to the invention for the preparation of the dye of the invention.

Thus, plant species, preferably selected from the group consisting of vegetable species Strelitzias, in particular, plant species Ravenala madagascariensis, plant species of the family eleocarpus, for example, Elaeocarpus angustifolius Blume, plant species of the family kalievyh, in particular, plant species Delarbrea michieana, plant species of the family miralievich, in particular, plant species of Danaea nodosa, plant species of the family hymenophyllum, in particular, plant species Trichomanes elegans, plant species of the genus Selaginella, for example, Selaginella willdenowii, plant species of the family Kochetygova, in particular, plant species Diplazium tomentosum, plant species family Lindsay, in particular, plant species Lindsaea lucida, plant species of begonia, in particular, plant species Begonia pavoina, plant species family melsomvik, in particular, plant species Phyllagathis rotundifolia.

Of course, part of the plant selected for the preparation of the dye of the invention depends on the plant species.

Thus, the plant material may be part of the plant or the whole plant, but may, in particular, to be a part fruit, part of the seed, or part, of the sheet, or may be the whole fruit, whole seed or whole sheet, provided that the plant material includes or is formed from colored tissue containing iridotomy.

Cellular fabric preferably formed cell surface layers of parts of the plant, with the effect of staining due to the interference, and in particular, cellular layers on the outer surface parts of the plant, for example, epidermal cells of a plant.

The fabric can be formed as a non-limiting example, the epidermis of the fruit, the seed's shell or surface with a cloth sheet.

For Malaysian tropical plants, Lee studied the above-mentioned publications, the fabric was formed leaves.

Liquid medium in which the extraction is formed by a solvent or mixture of solvents in which iridotomy insoluble, but which will allow to capture them alone or together with faction is th plant material, as such separated from the main pulp plant tissue under the action of ultrasound.

Specialists in the art will understand that the composition of the liquid medium in which are decompartmentalization cells of a plant tissue, chosen in accordance with the nature of the plant tissue, and is chosen so that it has captured the painted product, not necessarily associated with a part of the plant material.

Specialists in the art will also understand that any part of the plant material, not contributing to the effect of dyeing and exciting during extraction, should not adversely affect the effect of dyeing or should be able to subsequently be removed during at least one stage of purification of the dye of the invention before applying it.

Part, kept in the end, is that in the context of the invention is called without distinction, "support" or "support group, as disclosed previously. The liquid medium preferably is the environment in which the cellulose is not soluble and not denaturised, while the liquid medium is chosen in particular from aqueous solutions of alkali, acetone, ethyl acetate, vegetable essential oils, liquid alkanes, typically used as EXT the promotional solutions in particular, cyclohexane and heptane.

This liquid medium may be, in particular, selected from environments that are experts in this field of technology is used for extraction in thin layers, as the above-mentioned liquid medium does not destroy the cellulosic substrate.

A method of obtaining a dye of the invention also preferably includes a stage in which process fluid separated in the late stages of decompartmentalization, filtered to remove residues and allow the accumulation of structures responsible for the effect of dyeing (iridium), optionally in the presence of an auxiliary fraction, as defined previously.

After removal of plant residues coloring vegetation structure (essentially representing iridotomy) accumulate and purified in accordance with standard methods of obtaining vegetable extract used as a pigment in the compositions of any type, which may include such.

Under the first alternative, this stage is performed by direct distillation of the solvent or solvent mixture, forming a liquid for extraction.

According to the second possible variant implementation, the liquid medium consisting of an organic phase, cool and add cold water. Okresu the matter of patterns are released from the organic phase and flocculent (fall cereals) in the aqueous phase. These staining patterns are easily separated by filtering.

Then optionally perform the purification stage of the dye, for example, by removal of solvent (solvents), forming a liquid medium, which is extracted with the specified color.

Of course, given the diversity of the considered plant material, extraction according to the above definition can be described only in General terms.

Specialists in the art will easily understand that this method will be adapted in accordance with the processed plant material, to obtain a dye that can be used as a pigment in colored compositions, in particular in cosmetic compositions.

As was previously disclosed, it may be preferable that the liquid medium captures not only the structure responsible for the staining, but also one or more other substances from plant material, called auxiliary faction.

In particular, this is the case when iridotomy part of the waxy fraction of the painted parts of plants.

In this case, the method can be adapted by choosing as a liquid medium of a suitable solvent or mixture of solvents, allowing the simultaneous extraction of the structure is at, responsible for staining, i.e., the dye, which can be waxy, solid or pasty form, and waxy product, use of the mixture or of the dye directly into cosmetic compositions generated in the future.

Thus, as is evident from the subsequent detailed description, in the particular case of the dye extracted from the peel of seeds of plant species Ravenala madagascariensis, which represents a preferred dye according to the invention, the advantage is the fact that iridology contained in the waxy plant part.

Ravenala madagascariensis (also called palm travelers, ravenala Urania speciosa or Urania madagascariensis) is a herbaceous plant with lacunar stem, the stem of which when ripe is about ten meters in height, which makes it a total height of approximately 20 meters.

The fruits are very hard capsules with 6 cavities, containing numerous seeds, each surrounded by a membrane, called the skin, bright blue color which is quite rare among plants.

This peel contains about 50 wt.% waxy fraction, which is still very little is known.

In this particular case, the method preferably adapted to one of the belt can be extracted and the structure, responsible for the blue coloration (iridotomy), and wax.

The following description is given for the case of the preferred example (peel the seeds of Ravenala madagascariensis). The described method, however, can be directly adapted for different plants, in which the part containing iridotomy also contains wax.

According to a preferred variant of the invention, the dye extracted from the peel of seed plants Ravenala madagascariensis, is a blue pigment.

In particular, this preferred variant of the present invention is based on the proof of the presence of iridium painted in plant tissues derived from species Ravenala madagascariensis, which is a tropical plant species belonging to the family of strelitzia.

Thus, according to a preferred variant, the invention relates to colored vegetable dye obtained from the plant material, formed with, or includes, a peel of seeds of plant species Ravenala madagascariensis.

This is the preferred dye of the invention receive under way to extradite iridotomy of the cellular tissues of the seed coat without denaturation indicated by iridium.

Thus obtained extract has a blue color.

According to this preferred variant of the method of obtaining such a dye, plant material, formed with or includes peel plants Ravenala madagascariensis, is subjected to mechanical stirring and/or the impact of micro bubbles generated due to the use of ultrasound in a liquid medium.

For all such plant materials that have a waxy nature, the way decompartmentalization perform, in particular, under the action of ultrasound in the presence of a liquid medium selected so that it has captured waxy material and painted patterns (iridotomy) in the form of a colored product.

According to the first preferred variant of this method, the selected liquid medium is a solvent-waxy material.

Especially preferred medium is acetone.

According to one preferred options, the method includes a stage of deposition of a colored product, in particular, by cooling the liquid medium.

According to this variant, in a liquid organic medium, in particular, acetone, water is added to cause the release of the wax, after which the mixture is cooled. Then wax flocculent and captures the colored pigment.

After that painted wax extract is filtered, washed and dried.

Another particularly preferred variant of the method is also applicable to the vegetative Mat is riyals, containing waxy material.

This option proved to be particularly preferable in that it avoids the use of solvent, the complete removal which can sometimes be difficult.

According to this variant, the liquid medium is an alkaline environment, allowing omelet waxy material, to remove colored alkaline solution containing waxy material in saponified form and painted patterns.

In this case, for stage saponification is preferably used an aqueous solution of ammonia.

A liquid medium consisting of colored alkaline solution containing the dye of the invention, is subjected to a further stage of leaching acidic solution to cause occulation waxy material.

This second type of method is essentially aimed at the extraction of the colored wax, containing a dye of the invention.

Saponification of the wax alkaline solution facilitates the extraction of ultra structures.

Thus, according to this method, colored wax produced in two stages:

the first stage, during which the alkaline solution to extract the "complex" wax/colored compound, which is filtered off, and

the second stage, during which the alkaline medium with the previous phase is acidified with an organic acid, for example acetic acid, for deposition of an "integrated" product containing waxy material, insoluble in the acidic environment, which captures during the deposition of thin layers, responsible for the phenomenon of coloring; this complex is washed, then filtered and dried.

In the case of plant species Ravenala madagascariensis enriched wax shell is preferably treated in accordance with the method, which allows to extract iridotomy simultaneously with wax: shell preferably is treated with ultrasound in a water solution of ammonia. Preferably use 1 ml of aqueous ammonia with a concentration of 20% (22°Be) per liter of water, the temperature of the support is approximately 60°C for 10 minutes Such extraction may be repeated once. Wax its shades and is captured along with eredicane. The liquid is filtered and then neutralized with acetic acid.

During the above stage acidification amount of acetic acid is preferably selected so as to bring the pH to a value of around 4 or below 4 that allows you to adjust the size of the precipitated wax flakes and facilitates their removal.

Deposited waxy mass of blue color filter; it is washed on the filter and dried at a moderate temperature.

According to an optional variant of this method, peel avenala madagascariensis is treated with CO 2in the supercritical or subcritical condition before extraction as such.

Another object of the invention is the use of the dye of the invention as a pigment in colored compositions that can include it.

Thus, the invention relates to pigmented compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions containing a dispersion of a dye as defined above, performs the function of pigment.

The composition identified as composition, in which a coloring agent retains its coloring properties in the absence of other compounds, denaturing its individual structure.

In the cosmetic field, such a composition may take the form of, for example, serum, lotion, emulsion, such as a care cream, a hydrogel, such as a mask or mascara, cream foundations, eyeshadow or eyeliner, cosmetic pencil or patch.

Preferred are compositions comprising fatty excipients or non-aqueous or essentially anhydrous excipients.

Cosmetic composition containing the dye of the invention preferably include at least one cosmetically acceptable agent and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient.

Colored cosmetic HDMI is tion can be used for skin care, and ink cosmetic composition is a product for up skin or outer formations on the body.

Colored cosmetic composition comprising a coloring agent in accordance with the invention may contain at least one cosmetically active agent selected from substances that have depigmentation or brightening effect on the skin; substances with activity in terms of weight loss; substances with hydrating activity; substances having a soothing, softening or relaxing activity; substances active against stimulation of microcirculation in the skin to improve skin color, in particular, face; substances with activity against regulation of sebum discharge, for oily skin; substances intended for purification or cleansing of the skin; substances which possess the ability to trap free radicals, substances intended to reduce or eliminate the effects of skin aging, in particular the formation of wrinkles due to activity aimed at helping to maintain the structure of the skin and/or reduce the destruction of the extracellular matrix of the surface layers of the dermis to the epidermis and/or obtaining a protective, corrective or restorative action on the skin; substances with protivovesa is sustained fashion activity.

In addition to the dye according to the invention composition preferably may include at least one filler selected from pigments, pearl, dyes, polymers, surfactants, rheological agents, fragrances, electrolytes, pH modifiers, antioxidants, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

The dyes of the invention is particularly suitable for use as pigments in cosmetic compositions and in particular in cosmetic compositions intended for up skin or outer formations on the body.

In addition, the invention particularly preferably relates to the use of the dye of the invention, prepared from the skin of the seed plants Ravenala madagascariensis, as a coloring agent in the colored or coloring compositions can include any, in particular in compositions intended for up skin or outer formations on the body, such as eyelashes.

It should be noted that in the case of cosmetic compositions the presence of the wax can be an advantage, and in this case you will not need to separate it from the rest of the painted product. In particular, in the case of peel Ravenala madagascariensis accumulated wax is very fine and can be useful for some compositions, in particular cosmetic to the positions.

Specialists in the art will understand that the amount of dye contained in the compositions according to the invention, depends largely on the type of composition and the desired effect.

In most cases, and, in particular, in cosmetic industry, the dye of the invention can be used to produce colored compositions or coloring compositions. Specialists in the art will understand that the amount of dye in these two types of songs will be different and will of course depend on the nature of the dye.

For example, in particular in the cosmetic industry, you will try to guess the color of the composition, for example, cosmetic compositions for the care, the purpose of which is not staining of the skin.

In particular, in the case of using the dye bright blue color, extracted from the peel of plants Ravenala madagascariensis, specialists in the art will be able to choose the amount of this dye, sufficient to obtain the effect of a bluish shade in white compositions for care, such as cream.

You can also paint a cosmetic composition, which function is the staining of the skin or outer formations on the body, in order to obtain dye compositions, in particular compositions intended for Dec the dispensing cosmetics.

In the particular case when the dye is obtained from the peel of seeds species Ravenala madagascariensis, the dye is preferably used in compositions containing oily phase and intended to color the skin or outer formations on the body. Such compositions will represent, for example, mascara or lipstick.

The invention also relates to a method up skin or outer formations on the body, in particular, eyelashes, hair or nails comprising applying to at least part of the skin or external entities on body composition as described above.

Example 1

Preparation of the dye of the invention in the form of dyed wax from the peel of seeds Ravenala madagascariensis

The dye according to the invention are prepared in accordance with the following stages:

1 - 100 g peel seeds Ravenala madagascariensis is placed in the tank of the ultrasonic extractor, equipped with 4 piezoelectric devices (= 400 W) with two liters emozionalnoe water, to which was added 2 ml of an aqueous solution of ammonia 20% (22°Be).

2 - For decompartmentalization plant cells perform processing of plant material by ultrasound. Specified sonication is carried out at a temperature of 55°C (initial temperature) for about 10 minutes at a frequency of 27 kHz. During this operation no for the maintain temperature change does not occur (the phenomenon of cavitation ultrasound creates an increase in temperature, which compensates for the loss due to spontaneous cooling).

3 - After this stage, perform the first filtering sieve or mesh fabric for removing the bulk of the cellulosic residues. The aqueous filtrate has the appearance of milk blue that contains saponified wax.

4 - Peel held by the filter, remove and repeat the ultrasound in the same conditions as described above (time, temperature, proportion of aqueous ammonia and so on).

5 - After filtration of the aqueous phase from this additional processing ultrasound filtered extracts pooled.

6 - Next, the thus obtained aqueous phase is acidified to approximately pH 4 by addition of 9 ml of 75% acetic acid. The effect is immediate: color, wax falls cereals, grasping with a blue pigment, and precipitates upon cooling.

7 - the Process faster in the refrigerator (temperature about 4°C). The supernatant water is drained, and waxy blue precipitate washed twice emozionalnoe water to remove traces of the formed ammonium acetate and residual acid.

8 - Then waxy residue of blue in the cold is separated by filtration on filter paper using the paper Joseph. Get a clear filtrate.

9 - Filter, which catches the wax blue, dried at a temperature which e 25°C for maximum water removal.

This way you can get approximately 30 g of dyed wax from 100 g of initial peel.

This colored wax consists of a dye in accordance with the invention. Its color is bright blue.

It can be used as a pigment or coloring agent for coloring compositions according to the invention.

Example 2

The method of preparation of the dye of the invention in the form of dyed wax from the peel of seeds Ravenala madagascariensis

According to a method different from that described above in Example 1, the peel of seeds Ravenala madagascariensis is covered with ethyl acetate or acetone and then all put together in a tank ultrasonic extractor of this type, as described in Example 1. Then they are subjected to the influence of ultrasound for holding decompartmentalization cells at a frequency of about 27 kHz for several minutes before complete decomposition of plant material, after which the extract is filtered. Ultrasound treatment lasts for approximately 10 minutes. Released the wax is dissolved in an organic solvent.

Then, the thus obtained organic phase is supplemented with water to half of its volume. The addition of water causes the release of wax, which at this point flocculent in the aqueous phase, grasping with a blue pigment. The aqueous phase containing flocculating okras the config wax, then separated by settling.

To enrich this aqueous phase blue dye perform the following procedure.

Extraction with a new portion of the peel performed as described above. The organic phase obtained after ultrasonic treatment, filtered and then added to the previously obtained aqueous phase. Colored waxy extract contained in the aqueous phase in flokulirovannym condition, thus enriched, and the color becomes more vivid. The operation may be repeated up to four times, always with the same aqueous phase.

At the end of stage enrichment colored wax is separated from the aqueous phase by filtration on extra fine paper, such as commercially available paper called "paper of Joseph".

It should be noted that in this case get a waxy residue that is significantly brighter color than that obtained in accordance with the method of the previous example. This residue is actually more concentrated blue pigment, since, in particular, a significant portion of the wax is dissolved in the solvent, whereas essentially all the blue pigment is captured flocculating wax.

And finally, dyed waxy residue, thus obtained, free from solvent and residual water by evaporation.

This is very I had to colored waxy residue, obtained in the described way, is a dye in accordance with the invention.

Example 3

Slow aging cosmetic composition comprising a pigment in accordance with the invention

The dye obtained according to Example 1, add in the oil phase of the emulsion of the type oil-in-water to prevent aging of the skin, the formulation of which is described below:

The percentages are expressed by weight relative to the final composition:

- Plant extract Centella asiatica0,1
Blue dye in accordance with Example 12
- The surface-active agent (Arlacel®165 VP)5
- 95% cetyl alcohol1
- Stearyl alcohol1
- Beeswax1,5
Butter (Perleam®)8,5
- Tricaprate/capillary3
- Silicone oil (Dimethicone 100 CS)1
- Polymer (Keltrol®)0,35
- Sodium hydroxide0,04
- Powder tetranitro ETC0,1
- Preservatives0,5
- Waterqs
enough100

The composition is a bluish-colored cream anti-aging skin care, which is aimed at preventing or slowing the signs of aging skin.

Example 4

Decorative cosmetic composition containing the dye according to the invention

The dye obtained according to Example 1, added to the fatty phase of the mascara composition of which is given below:

Blue dye in accordance with Example 110
Triglycerides C18-369,9
Literallayoutto 12.0
Other dyes9,5
Beeswax 4,6
Carnauba wax2,2
Triethanolamine1,9
Shellac1,9
Stearic acid1,9
Palmitic acid1,9
Hydrogenated glycerinated1,5
The copolymer PVP/VA (vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate)0,95
Lecithin0,95
Preservatives0,6
Xanthan gum0,4
Phenoxyethanol0,2
Hydrolyzed keratin0,15
Tetranitro ETC0,05
Flavorsqs
Waterqs 100

Thus obtained mascara has a bright blue color.

1. The dyes of vegetable origin is I, characterized in that it is produced under the action of ultrasound in the presence of a liquid medium of the painted parts plant species, cellular tissue which contain iridotomy responsible for staining the specified part.

2. The dye according to claim 1, characterized in that it is obtained by the method, according to which the specified part of the plant is subjected to the operation, during which the plant cells, included in the cellular tissue containing the specified iridotomy at least partially separated in the presence of a liquid medium with the release of the painted product and capture it using the specified liquid medium.

3. The dye according to claim 1, characterized in that the method also includes filtering operation for releasing the product from at least part of the pulp residue.

4. The dye according to claim 2, characterized in that the method also includes filtering operation for releasing the product from at least part of the pulp residue.

5. The dye according to claim 1, characterized in that said plant is chosen from the group consisting of a plant species of the family Strelitzias, in particular plant species Ravenala madagascariensis, plant species of the family eleocarpus, such as Elaeocarpus angustifolius Blume, plant species of the family kalievyh, in particular flora is wow species Delarbrea michieana, plant species family miralievich, in particular plant species Danaea nodosa, plant species of the family hymenophyllum, in particular plant species Trichomanes elegans, plant species of the genus Selaginella, such as Selaginella willdenowii, plant species of the family Kochetygova, in particular plant species Diplazium tomentosum, plant species of the family Lindsay, in particular plant species Lindsaea lucida, plant species of begonia, in particular plant species Begonia pavonina, and plant species of the family melsomvik, in particular plant species Phyllagathis rotundifolia.

6. The dye according to claim 5, characterized in that the colored part of the specified plant species contains waxy material.

7. The dye according to claim 5, characterized in that it is obtained from the peel of seeds of plant species Ravenala madagascariensis.

8. The dye according to claim 6, characterized in that it is obtained by the method, according to which the specified colored part is subjected to the operation, during which plant cells included in the cell tissues containing iridotomy at least partially decompartmentalized using at least one external energy source, in particular, by mechanical mixing, for example, with a mechanical stirrer, homogenizer or mill; or under the action of ultras is indicated in the presence of a liquid medium, selected so that it has captured the specified waxy material, in the form of a colored product.

9. The dye of claim 8, characterized in that the liquid medium is a solvent specified waxy material.

10. The dye according to claim 9, characterized in that the solvent is an acetone.

11. The dye according to claim 9, characterized in that the method includes a stage of deposition of the specified colored product by cooling the specified liquid medium.

12. The dye of claim 8, characterized in that the liquid medium is an aqueous alkaline medium, allowing omelet specified waxy material emitting colored alkaline solution containing a specified waxy material in saponified form and painted patterns.

13. The dye indicated in paragraph 12, characterized in that said method also comprises the stage of washing the specified colored alkaline solution, an acidic solution to cause flocculation of the specified waxy material.

14. The dye according to claim 1, characterized in that the colored part of the specified plant species may be waxy, solid or pasty form.

15. The blue dye of claim 8, characterized in that it is obtained from the peel of seeds of plant species Ravenala madagascriensis.

16. Colored composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it contains a dispersion of a dye according to any one of claims 1 to 15.

17. The composition according to item 16, characterized in that it is a cosmetic composition, in particular, designed for up skin or outer formations on the body.

18. The composition according to 17, characterized in that it is a serum, a lotion, an emulsion, such as a care cream, a hydrogel, such as a mask, mascara, cream Foundation, eyeshadow, eyeliner, cosmetic pencil or patch.

19. The composition according to item 16, characterized in that the dye is obtained from the peel of seeds Ravenala madagascariensis, in particular, as indicated in any of PP-15.

20. Way up skin or outer formations on the body, in particular eyelashes, hair or nails, characterized in that the method comprises applying to at least part of the skin or outer formations on the body of the composition according to any one of PP-19, in particular according to claim 19.



 

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Nanoemulsion // 2491917

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