Using natural active substances in cosmetic or therapeutic compositions

FIELD: medicine.

SUBSTANCE: invention refers to cosmetology and represents a cosmetic composition containing: hydrolised yeast proteins as an active substance, and at least one acceptable carrier, differing by the fact that the above hydrolised yeast proteins are prepared by exogenic enzymatic hydrolysis and/or acid hydrolysis and/or alkaline hydrolysis of the yeast membranes.

EFFECT: invention provides improved cosmetic activity, excellent time stability.

17 cl, 6 ex, 3 tbl, 2 dwg

 

The SCOPE of the INVENTION

The present invention is the use of natural active substances in cosmetic and therapeutic compositions where these substances are hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained from the insoluble fraction of yeast.

PRIOR art

In the past several years, there is interest in cosmetic and therapeutic applications of protein hydrolysates.

Hydrolysates of proteins can have different origins: they may be of animal origin, in particular fish, vegetable origin, or the source may be fungi, such as yeast.

The presence or absence of biological activity of protein hydrolysates depends, in particular, on the nature of the original proteins.

Thus, the hydrolysis of proteins of fish allowed to obtain hydrolysed proteins with a specific spatial structure, recognizable by certain receptors. This is specially noted hormonal activity and opioid type (Legal and Stenberg, Biofutur, No. 179, 1998, p.61-63).

In some sources of the prior art mentions the use of protein hydrolysates yeast in cosmetic compositions. These hydrolysates of proteins of yeast produced either by hydrolysis of whole yeast cells, either by hydrolysis of soluble fracc and yeast (the contents of the cytoplasm).

Thus, in the patent application EP 0695801 described cosmetic use protein composition obtained by:

- stage heat treatment of the yeast with subsequent treatment of the lytic enzymes of the cell wall of yeast to obtain a mixture,

- stage and treatment and separation of the protein from the above-mentioned mixture to obtain yeast proteins, and

- stage hydrolysis of the proteins.

Lytic enzymes used according to this document, are enzymes that attack glikana and destabilizing the wall and the membrane. Thus, the composition contains hydrolyzed proteins obtained from the soluble fraction of yeast In the patent application EP 0126364 described cosmetic applications not involving histamines that does not cause fever, sterile active product obtained by a process comprising the following stages:

- plasmosis yeast and homogenization at a temperature of less than 0°C,

- processing of a proteolytic enzyme for at least 70 hours,

- processing dimenoxadol to remove substances that contain histamine,

fractional precipitation with a mixture of alcohols to remove residual proteins.

Thus, the final product contains hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained by hydrolysis of proteins of whole yeast. The implementation of such a method floor the treatment has many flaws, in particular, being the length of the process, a large number of stages and the need to work in sterile conditions.

In the patent application EP 0237398 described cosmetic use of biologically active polypeptides, obtained by a process comprising the following stages:

mechanical fragmentation of natural substances, such as yeast, to obtain an aqueous homogenate,

- enzymatic hydrolysis using gidrolizuemye agent consisting of α-chymotrypsin and possibly trypsin to obtain hydrolysate,

- Department of polypeptide fractions of a certain molecular weight.

Thus, the polypeptide fraction comes from protein derived from whole yeast. In particular, the polypeptide fraction has a molecular weight less than 10,000 and more than 1000 Da.

Consumers are increasingly demanding "natural" products, both in food and in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries.

In the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries have a valid need to create a new natural active substances, which are:

- have improved cosmetic or therapeutic qualities, such as moisturizing, anti-aging effect and/or firming effect, and/or

- excellent stability over time, and/or

- the receipt of which is homogeneous, and/or SP is a way to obtain are easy to implement on an industrial scale.

BRIEF description of the INVENTION

The present invention is the creation of natural active ingredients, suitable for cosmetic or therapeutic area.

Also object of the invention is the creation of new therapeutic or cosmetic compositions.

Another object of the invention relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of the skin and/or skin appendages and/or mucous membranes or to the specified substances for therapeutic applications.

The present invention, in particular, is based on the discovery of a new category hydrolyzed proteins with improved cosmetic and/or therapeutic activity, and/or superior stability over time, and/or the receipt of which is homogeneous and/or the method of obtaining are easy to implement on an industrial scale.

The present invention is a cosmetic or therapeutic composition comprising hydrolyzed yeast proteins as active substance, characterized in that the said gidralizovanny yeast proteins obtained from the insoluble fraction of yeast.

According to one embodiment, hydrolyzed yeast proteins get through enzymatic hydrolysis and/or acid hydrolysis and/or alkaline hydrolysis.

According to one embodiment, hydrolyzed proteins drogi the th receive by enzymatic hydrolysis using at least one peptidases, preferably selected from papain, trypsin, chymotrypsin, subtilisin, pepsin, thermolysin, pronase, fluvastatin, enterokinase, protease factor XA, Purina, bromeline, proteinase K, generate I, termites, carboxypeptidase A, carboxypeptidase B, collagenase and/or mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained from such yeast, as yeast of the genus Saccharomyces, Kluyveromyces, Torula, Candida, Hansenula, Pichia, and/or mixtures thereof, predpochtitelno Saccharomyces, more preferably Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

According to one embodiment, hydrolyzed yeast proteins contain at least 40%, preferably at least 45%, more preferably at least 50%, even more preferably at least 55%, even more preferably at least 60% of the yeast proteins having a molecular weight in the range between 1 and 5 kDa.

According to one embodiment, hydrolyzed yeast proteins contain not more than 55%, preferably not more than 50%, more preferably not more than 45%, even more preferably not more than 40%, even more preferably not more than 35% gidrolizovannykh yeast proteins having a molecular weight less than 1 kDa.

According to one embodiment, the ratio AA/AB hydrolyzed yeast proteins is less than or equal to 35%, in particular less than or equal to 30%, in particular less than or equal to 25%, frequent the awns less than or equal to 20%.

According to one embodiment, the composition comprises from 0.001% to 20% gidrolizovannykh proteins of yeast, more preferably from 0.001% to 15% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, even more preferably from 0.001% to 10% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, even more preferably from 0.01% to 3% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, even more preferably from 0.01% to 2% of hydrolysed yeast proteins.

According to one embodiment, the composition contains at least one additive selected from preservatives, chelating agents, dyes, UV radiation, pH Adjuster, improvers consistency, odorants or antioxidant and/or at least one excipient selected from hydrophilic compounds, hydrophobic compounds and surfactants,

The present invention is also a method of manufacturing a cosmetic or therapeutic composition, comprising the following stages:

the hydrolysis of the protein insoluble fraction of yeast to obtain hydrolyzed proteins, yeast, and

- mixing the above hydrolyzed yeast proteins with a suitable therapeutic or cosmetic carrier.

The present invention is also the use of hydrolysed yeast proteins obtained from the insoluble fraction of yeast, as active ingredients in cosmetics / products the definition and/or therapeutic compositions.

Another objective of the present invention relates to a method of cosmetic treatment, comprising a stage of bringing into contact with the skin and/or skin appendages and/or mucous membranes of the composition according to the present invention, or compositions that can be obtained by the process according to the present invention.

Another objective of the present invention also relates to hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained from the insoluble yeast fractions, for use as a medicine, preferably for the treatment and/or prevention of pathological dry skin, pathological problems with healing and/or pathological giperborei, and/or acne.

A BRIEF OPINIE GRAPHIC MATERIALS

Figure 1 shows the percentage distribution by size (kDa) hydrolyzed yeast proteins according to the present invention (white histogram) and hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained by hydrolysis of whole yeast cells (shaded histogram).

Figure 2 presents the profile of molecular weight for the hydrolysed yeast proteins according to the invention (black curve), and hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained by hydrolysis of the intact cells (grey curve). On the axis of ordinate indicates the absorbance recorded at 214 nm, and on the x - axis lie the retention in minutes.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION of EMBODIMENTS of the INVENTION

The present invention is a cosmetic or therapeutic composition comprising hydrolyzed yeast proteins as active substance.

In particular, the present invention is a cosmetic or therapeutic composition comprising hydrolyzed yeast proteins as active substance, characterized in that the said hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained from the insoluble fraction of yeast.

Hydrolyzed yeast proteins are also known as "yeast gelatin" or "proteins of yeast, obtained by hydrolysis"

The term "cosmetic composition" herein refers to a composition that is designed to provide a cosmetic effect.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic effect is achieved by application of topical compositions according to the present invention.

The term "local" means that the composition is active in the place to which it is applied on the skin, skin appendages and/or mucous membranes. According to the invention, the composition can be directed to the superficial layers of the epidermis and/or dermis.

The term "process of the skin" means, in General, anything that covers the skin, in particular, the hair, the nails, oleski, eyelash.

The term "skin" includes the scalp.

The term "skin" includes the dermis and the epidermis and the superficial layers of the epidermis.

The term "mucous membranes" or the term "wet epithelial tissue" refers to membranes that cover the open cavity from the external environment, in particular the mucous membranes of the nose, eyes, and genitals, as well as the mucous membranes of the vagina.

In another preferred embodiment, the cosmetic effect is achieved by oral administration.

The term "therapeutic composition" means a composition intended to provide a therapeutic effect.

A preferred therapeutic composition according to the present invention is a dermatological composition.

In particular, therapeutic effect is achieved by local application therapeutic compositions according to the present invention. Thus, the present invention also relates to cosmetic or therapeutic compositions, as defined above, intended for application to the skin or skin appendages and/or mucous membranes.

Another preferred composition according to the present invention is a composition suitable for oral administration.

The terms "active ingredient"or "active components is NT" or "active ingredient" here signify substance, responsible for the cosmetic effect in cosmetic compositions or responsible for terapevticheskii effect in therapeutic compositions.

Cosmetic composition according to the invention includes at least the connection as active substances, and acceptable cosmetic carrier.

therapeutic composition according to the invention includes at least the connection as active substances, and acceptable within a therapeutic medium.

Hydrolyzed yeast proteins according to the invention is obtained from the insoluble fraction of yeast.

The term "insoluble fraction" means shell yeast, that is, simultaneously veils and plasma membrane of yeast.

The insoluble fraction is about 20 to 30 wt.% dry matter of the yeast cell.

The term "soluble fraction" means the contents of the yeast that is different from the membranes of yeast.

Shell yeast have a significant amount of carbohydrates (about 50%). Proteins make up about 10 to 20% of the membranes of yeast, in particular, from 13% to 18% membranes of yeast (relative to the dry mass).

The insoluble fraction can be obtained by heat treatment of yeast within 1 to 3 hours at a temperature in the range between 70°C and 90°C, followed by separation of the soluble and insoluble fractions, in particular, the way the centrifugation. So remove the soluble fraction and produce insoluble.

Gidralizovanny yeast proteins according to the present invention obtained by hydrolysis of proteins derived from the insoluble fraction of yeast.

Hydrolyzed yeast proteins can be subjected to certain types of appropriate processing (e.g., separation of proteins by centrifugation, concentration, filtration or treatment with activated carbon).

Thus, unlike conventional protein hydrolysates, obtained by autolysis or enzymatic hydrolysis of the contents of the entire cell or only the soluble part, gidralizovanny yeast proteins according to the present invention is obtained from a specific fraction of the cells. Proteins insoluble fraction of yeast have different nature than the proteins present in the soluble fraction of yeast. Proteins insoluble fraction of yeast, in particular, include mannoprotein that do not have cellular fraction.

In addition, proteins insoluble fractions are essentially natunae proteins, is not subject to hydrolysis, while blsa part of the protein soluble fraction is already the last full or partial hydrolysis. Thus, the result of the hydrolysis of proteins obtained from whole yeast, less controllable due to heterog the frame status source of proteins.

In addition, the method according to the present invention allows the proteins insoluble fraction more accessible to hydrolysis, among other things, due to the significant concentration of these proteins in comparison with the hydrolysis carried out on whole yeast.

Thus, gidralizovanny yeast proteins according to the present invention are characterized by the specific nature of the proteins identified (homogeneous) distribution profile of the protein mass, and/or a certain ratio AA/AB (with a very small proportion of free amino acids), namely, in particular, less than or equal to 35%, in particular less than or equal to 30%, in particular less than or equal to 25%, in particular less than or equal to 20%.

The term "ratio AA/AB" denotes the mass ratio of the amount of nitrogen in the amino acids (in percent) to the total amount of nitrogen (in percent). The ratio AA/AB characterizes the degree of degradation of the protein, in particular, the degree of hydrolysis of proteins of yeast.

It was unexpectedly found that by being hydrolyzed, this new source of protein and has a cosmetic and therapeutic activity.

Hydrolyzed yeast proteins are presented in dry form, in particular in the form of a powder, or in solution, in particular in aqueous solution.

The present invention relates to cosmetic or therapeutic to the position, as defined above, characterized in that the hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis and/or acid hydrolysis and/or alkaline hydrolysis.

Acid hydrolysis is the hydrolysis is performed in an acidic medium, preferably by heating, for example using strong acids, such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, phosphonic acid and/or nitric acid.

In particular, acid hydrolysis decomposes tryptophan and converts amino acids glutamine and asparagine, respectively, glutamate and aspartate.

Alkaline hydrolysis is the hydrolysis is performed in an alkaline medium, for example, using a strong base such as sodium hydroxide or hydroxide potassium.

In particular, alkaline hydrolysis decomposes amino acids series, threonine and cysteine.

Enzymatic hydrolysis of proteins by yeast using hydrolases.

According to a preferred embodiment, hydrolyzed yeast proteins according to the invention is produced by enzymatic hydrolysis.

The enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out by adding at least one exogenous enzyme. Preferably, the endogenous enzymes of the yeast pre-inactivate, for example, by thermal processing.

In particular, according to the present invention, hydro the basics are hydrolases, acting on peptide bond. Such hydrolases, called peptidases or proteases, or proteolytic enzymes, have number of EU 3.4 classification of the EU. Peptidases catalyze the hydrolytic cleavage of communication C.

In particular, according to the present invention, hydrolases selected from ectopeptidases, in particular, aminopeptidase, dipeptidase, dipeptidyl-peptidases, tripeptidyl-peptidases, peptidyl-dipeptidase, carboxypeptidase serine type, carboxypeptidase cysteine-type, metallocarboxypeptidase, omega peptidases, and endopeptidase (or proteases), in particular, the serine of endopeptidases, cysteine of endopeptidases, aspartic endopeptidase and metalloendopeptidases.

Enzymatic hydrolysis can be combined with the hydrolysis of disulfide bridges, carried out using reducing agents, in particular, 2-mercaptoethanol or dithiothreitol, DER (Tris (2-carboxyethyl) phosphine).

In particular, the present invention is a therapeutic or cosmetic composition, as defined above, characterized in that the hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis using at least one peptidases, preferably selected from papain. trypsin, chymotrypsin, subtilisin, pepsin, thermolysin, pronase, fluvastatin, enterokinase, protease factor XA, the urine, bromeline, proteinase K, generate I, termites, carboxypeptidase A, carboxypeptidase B, collagenase, alcalase®, neutrase® and/or mixtures thereof.

Specialist equipment can easily determine the conditions of application of enzymes (in particular, their concentration, the duration of hydrolysis, temperature).

As an example, the hydrolysis can be done by adding protease for at least 18 hours at a temperature in the range of 45°C and 55°C.

Preferably, solubilizing part containing hydrolysed proteins of yeast, then allocate using centrifugation, after which it may concentrate and then dried.

The preferred enzyme according to the invention is selected from papain, trypsin, pepsin, alcalase®, neutrase®.

According to a specific embodiment, the enzymatic hydrolysis is carried out using at least two different enzymes, in particular, by using at least three different enzymes, in particular, by using at least three different enzymes.

As an example, the hydrolysis can be accomplished using a mixture of papain and alcalase®.

In particular, the present invention relates to cosmetic or therapeutic compositions, as defined above, characterized in that the hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained from yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces, Khiyveromyces, Torula, Candida, Hansenula, Pichia, and/is whether their mixtures, preferably Saccharomyces, most preferably Saccharomyces cerevisiae,

If hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained from yeasts of the genus Hansenula, it is preferably the yeast Hansenula anomala.

If hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained from yeasts of the genus Pichia, it is preferably the yeast Pichia pastoris.

Preferably hydrolyzed yeast proteins according to the present invention obtained from the yeast Saccharomyces, more preferably Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

According to the present invention, the preferred therapeutic and cosmetic compositions contain as active substance hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained from yeasts of the same kind, and preferably the same species and the same species of yeast.

According to another embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention comprise as active substance hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained from yeasts of the same kind, but at least two different species, preferably at least three different types.

According to another embodiment, the cosmetic and therapeutic compositions according to the present invention contain as active substance hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained from a yeast belonging to at least two different genera, in particular at least three different ro the am.

The present invention particularly relates to a cosmetic or therapeutic composition as defined above, characterized in that gidralizovanny yeast proteins contain at least 40%, preferably 45%, more preferably 50%, even more preferably 55%, more preferably 60%, yeast proteins with molecular weight in the range between 1 and 5 kDa.

The present invention relates, in particular, cosmetic or therapeutic compositions, as defined above, characterized in that gidrolizuemye yeast proteins contain not more than 55%, preferably not more than 50%, more preferably not more than 45%, even more preferably not more than 40%, even more preferably not more than 35%, gidrolizovannykh yeast proteins with molecular weight less than 1 kDa.

The present invention particularly relates to a cosmetic or therapeutic composition as defined above, characterized in that the ratio AA/OA for hydrolyzed yeast proteins is less than or equal to 35%, in particular less than or equal to 30%, in particular less than or equal to 25%, in particular less than or equal to 20%.

The term "ratio AA/OA" refers to the mass ratio of the amount of nitrogen in the amino acids (in percent) to the total amount of nitrogen (in percent). The ratio AA/AB characterizes the degree of degradation of the protein, in particular, the degree of hydrolysis of yeast proteins

According to the present invention, the preferred composition contains gidralizovanny yeast proteins, where at least 55% of the proteins have a molecular weight in the range between 1 and 5 kDa, and/or not more than 42% of these proteins have a molecular weight less than 1 kDa, and/or the ratio AA/AB is less than or equal to 35%.

According to the present invention, another preferred composition contains gidralizovanny yeast proteins, where at least 60% of these proteins have a molecular weight in the range between 1 and 5 kDa and/or not more than 37% of these proteins have a molecular weight less than 1 kDa, and/or the ratio AA/AB is less than or equal to 35%.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to cosmetic or therapeutic compositions, as defined above, where gidralizovanny yeast proteins obtained from the product Hydrolyzed Yeast Peptone And Springer®.

The product is Hydrolyzed Yeast Peptone And Springer® includes gidrolizuemye yeast proteins obtained from the insoluble fraction of Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Hydrolyzed protein product Hydrolyzed Yeast Peptone And Springer® include mostly gidralizovanny yeast proteins having a molecular weight greater or equal to 1 kDa and a smaller 5 kDa (about 60%), other gidrol the transferring proteins essentially have a molecular weight less 1 kDa (approximately 32%) (see Example 1).

Hydrolyzed protein product Hydrolyzed Yeast Peptone And Springer® characterized by the ratio of AA/OA in the range between 15 and 28%.

According to the present invention, the composition may contain the product Hydrolyzed Yeast Peptone And Springer® or gidralizovanny yeast proteins obtained by additional stages of extraction and/or purification of the product specified.

According to the invention, the composition may contain hydrolyzed proteins, yeast, specific gidrolizuacy protein fraction isolated from the product Hydrolyzed Yeast Peptone-A.

According to the invention, preferred kosmetyczna or therapeutic composition contains the product Hydrolyzed Yeast Peptone And Springer®.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or therapeutic composition as defined above containing from 0.001% to 20% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, more preferably from 0.001% to 15% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, even more preferably from 0.001% to 10% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, even more preferably from 0.01% to 3% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, even more preferably from 0.01% to 2% of hydrolysed yeast proteins.

The percentages refer to as wt.%.

The present invention relates, the company shall and, to the cosmetic or therapeutic composition as defined above, comprising from 0.01% to 20% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, in particular from 0.01% to 15% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, in particular from 0.01% to 10% of hydrolysed yeast proteins.

The present invention, more specifically, is a cosmetic or therapeutic composition as defined above containing from 0.01% to 3% gidrolizovannykh proteins of yeast, in particular from 0.01% to 2% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, in particular from 0.01% to 1% of hydrolysed yeast proteins.

According to the invention, acceptable cosmetic or therapeutic medium preferably contains at least a compound acting as an additive, and at least the connection, acting as excipient, since such a compound can be used in many ways,

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or therapeutic composition as described above, characterized in that it contains at least one additive selected from preservatives, chelating agents, dyes, UV radiation, pH Adjuster, improvers consistency, odorants or antioxidant, and at least one excipient selected from hydrophilic compounds, hydrophobic compounds and surface-active compounds.

Those who min "additive" refers to an agent, which in cosmetic and therapeutic compositions plays the role of preservative, chelating agent, dye, filter ultraviolet radiation (to protect raw materials), pH Adjuster (acid or base), improver consistency, odorants and/or antioxidant.

The term "raw materials that you want to protect"means any compound in the cosmetic or therapeutic composition, which can be degraded by light.

The term "excipient" means hydrophilic compounds, the components of the aqueous phase, hydrophobic compounds, the components of the oily phase, or surface-active substances.

Surfactants are amphiphilic molecules that are capable of holding together two normally immiscible, reducing interfacial powerhoster tension.

Surfactants are ionic (anionic, cationic or amphoteric or non-ionic.

According to the present invention provides the following list of compounds that can be used as a cosmetic and therapeutic media. This list is provided only as an example and should not be construed as exhaustive.

According to the present invention, the preservatives used in the compositions, in particular, choose from bottled hydroxytoluene (OSH), boutilier the data of hydroxyanisole (BHA), propyl gallate, Attila, dodecyl, α-tocopherol, α-tocopherol acetate, ascorbic acid, insulted palmitate, extracts of rosemary, extracts of Gingko biloba and oryzanol.

According to the present invention, chelating agents used in the composition, in particular selected from citric acid, cyclodextrin, dimitrievo salt add (etilendiamintetrauksusnoy acid), pentetate pentametre, phytic acid, sodium citrate, sodium phytate and add or pyrophosphate tetranitride.

According to the present invention, the dyes used in the compositions, in particular, are selected from agents that have the designation of the metric chroma (Color Index).

According to the present invention, filters ultraviolet radiation in the composition according to the invention, in particular, selected from benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone), benzophenone-4 (sulisobenzone), drometrizole, trisiloxane, benzylaniline, avobenzone, octylmethoxycinnamate (octinoxate), ethylhexylacrylate (octisalate) and titanium dioxide.

According to the present invention, controls the pH (acid or base)used in the composition, in particular selected from aminomethylpropanol, citric acid, fumaric acid, phosphoric acid, sabatinovka acid (octadecanoic acid), sodium acetate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium citrate, hydroxide NAT the Oia, tartaric acid, pyrophosphate, tetranitride or triethylamine (tea).

The term "enhancer consistency" means an agent capable of increasing the viscosity of the aqueous phase, in which it is dispersed, and this increase best way is significant.

Depending on circumstances, improver consistency can be a thickener and/or gelling agent.

The term "thickener" refers to a substance that allows to obtain a viscous solution without the formation of three-dimensional networks, in particular, in contrast to agents gelation.

Improvers consistency, in particular, selected from agar-agar (agar, alginates, carrageenates, the guar gum, gum Tara gum carob, gum karaya, xanthan gum, aloe Vera gel, glycerin, starch, chitosan, silica, silicates, in particular bentonite, hectorite, montmorillonite, aluminium silicate, magnesium silicate, proizvodnyh cellulose, in particular, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose or hypromellose, acrylic and vinyl polymers, in particular carbonero, cyanoacrylate polymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyvinyl alcohols, polyethylene glycols and polyquaterniums.

According to the invention, the odorants used in the compositions, in particular chosen from essential oils,compositions of synthetic origin, solublizing perfumes.

According to the invention, the antioxidant used in the composition, in particular, selected from ascorbyl palmitate, butylated of hydroxytoluene (OSH), tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol acetate.

Hydrophilic compounds of the aqueous phase, in particular, chosen from water, alcohols and polyhydric alcohols.

According to the invention, the alcohols that can be used in the compositions constitute, in particular, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol and hexyl alcohol.

According to the invention, polyhydric alcohols that can be used in the compositions constitute, in particular, glycerin, propylenglycol, butyleneglycol, hexyleneglycol and sorbitol.

Hydrophobic compounds fatty phase, in particular, chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, esters, glycerides, potassium and phosphatides.

Hydrocarbons, in particular selected from a chain containing carbon and hydrogen, unsubstituted and substituted, linear, branched or cyclic, in particular carbon chain containing from 22 to 35 carbon atoms, and, in particular, the following hydrocarbons: paraffins, paraffin oils, vaseline, squalane, silicone compounds and perhydrosqualene.

According to the invention, organosilicon compounds that can be used is omposite, in particular represent a volatile silicone oils, non-volatile silicone oils, modified kremnijorganicheskie oils, silicone waxes, silicone gums, silicone emulsion, kremnijorganicheskie microemulsions. Craniorachischisis connection in particular selected from Polikanov kremniyorganicheskih compounds, polydimethylsiloxane or Dimethicone, phenyltrimethylsilane or phenylmethanol, cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes or cyclomethicone, Dietikon-Kaprielov, iminodiethanol, and dimethiconol PG-betaine.

According to the invention, the fatty acids used in the compositions, in particular, represent a saturated fatty acid and unsaturated fatty acids, in particular, monounsaturated, Dimensione, tentazione fatty acids. Fatty acids, in particular selected from stearic acid, palmitic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid.

Fatty alcohols, in particular, vybiraut of long-chain saturated fatty alcohol is cetyl alcohol or hexadecanol, stearyl alcohol, cetosteatil alcohol, short chain unsaturated fatty alcohols, -oleic alcohol, octyldodecanol and tetrahydrofurfurylamine is Porta.

Esters, in particular, chosen from liquid fatty esters with linear chain - in particular, isopropylpalmitate, myristicaceae, octylpyrimidine, esoteerilisse, butylenediamine, isopropylaniline, isopropylmyristate, glycerylmonostearate, esters of polyhydric alcohols, in particular of glycerol, ethylene, glycol, propylene glycol, diethyleneglycol, and esters of oxyethylene.

Glycerides are, in particular, diglycerides and triglyceride. Glycerides, in particular, selected from vegetable oils, in particular olive oil, peanut oil, almond oil, oil of nutmeg, sunflower oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, maize oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, borage oil, evening primrose oil, oil of nutmeg Stam roses, oil, kiwi oil, avocado oil, oil seeds, cereals, oils of Australian walnut, castor oil, poppy seed oil, cotton seed oil, oil of apricot pits, coconut oil, copra oil, oil money, kernel oil coconut oil cártama, butter crab tree oil pumpkin seeds, shark oil, mink oil; oil of fat - in particular, coconut oil, oil from the seeds of the Shea tree, copra oil, babassu oil, palm oil, Tamanu oil, modified vegetable oils, syntheti the ski oil, fats, and taly fat.

According to the invention, the potassium used in the compositions, in particular selected from steroidov, carotene-potassium, lipochrome, waxes, in particular, sperm whale, or spermaceti, lanolin, derivatives of lanolin, lanolin wax, liquid lanolin, hydrogenerating lanolin, ethoxylated lanolin, lanolin alcohols, azetilirovannah lanolin alcohols, ethoxycarbonyl lanolin alcohols, lanolin acids, isopropyl lanolate; jojoba oil, ozokerite, ceresin, Carnauba wax and beeswax.

According to the invention, surfactants are, in particular, emulsifiers, wetting agents, detergents and/or blowing agents.

Cationic surfactants, in particular, chosen from Quaternary ammonium salts, salts of fatty primary amines, Quaternary ammonium starch, alkylpyridinium chloride, alkylammonium of zachariadou, diethylethylenediamine starch or cationic resins.

Non-ionic surfactants, in particular, chosen from esters of glycerin, esters of ethylene glycol, esters sorbitan, ethers of fatty alcohols, lipophilic esters of sugars, complex polyglyceryl esters, copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide, saponins, ethoxylated fatty Speer is s, ethers of glucose, a simple ester ethylglycol or poliatilenglikola, simple ether of ethylene glycol or of polyglycerol, acetylaminophenol simple ether sorbitan, acetyltyrosine ALKYLPHENOLS, lipoxinol, self emulsifiable bases (esters of polyethylene glycol), derivatives of methylglycosides, monoethanolamine, derived monoethanolamide, decanolide or derivative diethanolamides.

Anionic surfactants, in particular, chosen from alkaline malausa substances, amine malausa substances, acylcarnitines, alkylsulfonates, alliterative, alkyl sulphates of sodium and potassium, ethers of alkyl sulphates of sodium and potassium, paraffins, reincorporates, isocyanato, alkylphosphates sodium, ethers of alkylphosphates sodium.

Amphoteric or zwitter-ionic surfactants, in particular, choose from alkylbetaine, alkylamidoamines, alkylamino mono - and dipropionato, derivatives of imidazoles, such as cocoamphodiacetate, and lauroamphodiacetate sodium.

According to the invention, the cosmetic or therapeutic composition may contain, in addition to hydrolyzed yeast proteins, as defined above, other components of the yeast.

According to a preferred embodiment, a cosmetic or therapeutic composition according to the present invention, does not contain any other components of the yeast in addition to gidrolizovannykh yeast proteins according to the present invention

The present invention relates, in particular, to cosmetic or therapeutic compositions, as defined above, in which the active substance has a moisturizing effect and/or reparative effect, and/or a reinforcing effect, and/or anti-aging effect, and/or effect against seborrhea, and/or effect against acne, and/or the effect of dandruff and/or the effect of restoring hair, and/or effect in respect of gloss and/or smoothness and/or hair growth.

The term "hydration" means the reduction of evaporation of the skin due to occlusive phenomena or due to fixation of water on the active substance, moisturizing or hygroscopic effect of the active substance and/or property commit glycerides "intercellular cement".

The moisturizing effect of the composition according to the invention is shown, in particular, on the level of the epidermis as activitiea synthesis of lipids, in particular phospholipids and neutral lipids, and synthesis of hyaluronic acid.

The moisturizing effect of the composition according to the invention can be demonstrated in vitro when analyzing the synthesis of lipids and hyaluronic acid keratinocytes, as described in Example 3.

The moisturizing effect of the composition agreement is but the invention also leads to the effect, directed against dandruff appearing when applying the composition to the scalp.

The effect of dandruff can be demonstrated by reducing the amount of dandruff for a subject, subjected to treatment composition according to the present invention, for example as described in Example 5.

The terms "repair effect" and "healing effect" refers to the effect in relation to the repair and/or restoration of the epidermis and/or dermis. In particular, the effect of reparations is useful to repair damage and/or burns.

In particular, the repair effect of hydrolysed yeast proteins associated with activation of the synthesis of hyaluronic acid. Reparatory effect can be demonstrated by the number released hyaluronic acid and analysis of its expression in recovering human epidermis, as described in Example 3.

The term firming effect" refers to smoothing and toning effect on the skin due to its mechanical substrate, in particular, the fibers of collagen and elastin.

According to the invention, the composition allows, in particular, to improve the compression of the collagen network, activate the synthesis of elastin and maturation of collagen.

The collagen network corresponds to the aggregate of collagen fibers and fibrils.

According to the invention, firming the effect of the composition can be shown t vitro, as described in Example 3.

The term "anti-aging effect will oznachaet simultaneously preventive effect, delaying the appearance of signs of skin aging, and immediately manifested the effect of reducing the signs of aging. According to the present invention, the composition, in particular, shows anti-aging effect, associated with age, and may also show the effect directed against photo-induced aging.

The visible signs of aging, age-related, are, in particular, dry skin, appearance of wrinkles and wrinkles, reducing the strength of the skin and loss of flexibility of the skin.

Aging, age-related, also leads to a decrease in the amount of collagen, its solubility and synthesis, reduction of elastin and microfibrils, reduction glycosaminoglycans and inactivation of fibroblast

According to the invention, an anti-aging effect of the composition leads, in particular, to increase the proliferation of fibroblasts of the dermis and their activity towards the synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycan.

Antwortet effect associated with age, can be demonstrated in vitro by increasing synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycan fibroblasts of the dermis, as described in Example 3.

In particular, the signs of photo-induced aging is the appearance of depth is such wrinkles, thickened and rough skin.

In particular, photo-induced skin aging leads to a decrease in the amount and solubility of collagen, increase in the number of elastin and microfibrils, increase the amount of glycosaminoglycan, the increase in the number of inflammatory cells.

The present invention relates also to a cosmetic or therapeutic composition as described above, characterized in that the active substance has a reparative effect.

The term "effect against seborrhea" refers to the effect of regulating the secretion of the sebaceous glands, regulating the adsorption of sebum and/or providing astringent effect, allowing you to close the skin pores.

According to the invention, the composition can reduce the secretion of sebum.

In particular, according to the invention, the composition allows you to adjust the adsorption of sebum by adsorption of lipids.

Thus, according to the invention, the composition is particularly useful in the context of giperborei face and/or giperborei scalp, leading to the so-called "fat" hair.

According to the invention, the cosmetic composition has antiseborrheic effect, useful for oily skin and/or the tendency to develop acne.

The term "effect against acne" means a beneficial effect on acne.

In particular, according to the invention, favourable is th effect terapevticheskii composition regarding acne is associated with regulation of the secretion of sebum.

Effect against seborrhea and effect against acne can be demonstrated as described in Example 4. For example, according to the invention, the composition applied to the skin or scalp of subjects demonstrating Hyperborea level, respectively, of the skin and scalp. Then determine the secretion of sebum, causing the plaster, absorbent sebum, on the part of the body undergoing treatment. The patch is then analyzed to quantify the secretion of sebum. Secretion after treatment compared with the secretion from the same subject prior to therapy.

The term "regenerative effect" means the effect of smoothness of the hair. The outermost layer of the hair, called the cuticle, is formed overlapping scales. Rejuvenating effect leads to a smooth elevation of the cuticle, while damaged hair has a rough terrain.

In particular, according to the invention, the composition has a tonic effect on hair.

Regenerating effect on the hair can be demonstrated by measuring the topography of the hair, as described in Example 5.

The term "glare effect" refers to the ability of the hair to reflect light and give your hair the Shine effect.

The term "soft" means feeling the softness of her hair touching.

The term 'effect against the growth of the hair" means improving the growth of hair.

The effect on hair growth can be demonstrated in tests that measure the dynamics of the hair growth, as described in Example 5.

The present invention relates, in particular, to cosmetic or therapeutic compositions, as defined above, in the form of a solution (single phase), dispersion (in particular, emulsion, suspension, foam, or aerosol, gel, oil, pencil, powder, wipes, masks or patch.

The term "emulsion" refers to all types of emulsions, in particular, microemulsion, microemulsions, nano-emulsion, simple emulsions and multiple emulsions.

Emulsions are dispersions of a liquid in another liquid, where the two liquids are immiscible. The emulsions contain lipophilic and hydrophilic phase and emulsifier.

In particular, emulsions include lotions, lotions, creams, etc.

Nano-emulsion is a dispersion in which the diameter of the dispersed particles is less than 1000 nm, particularly from 10 nm to 100 nm.

Micro-emulsions are dispersions in which the diameter of the dispersed particles is less than 1000 μm, in particular from 10 μm to 100 μm.

Panamoney and microemulsions are transparent environment.

In particular, according to the invention, the cosmetic or therapeutic composition suitable for application to the skin or an ox is si.

In particular, according to the invention, the composition for application to the hair in the form of shampoos, lotions, masks, or sprays.

The present invention relates to cosmetic or therapeutic compositions, as defined above, in the form of tablets, plates, coated tablets, capsules, granules, pills, powder, syrup, suspensions for drinking and emulsion for drinking.

According to the invention, the cosmetic or therapeutic composition may contain as active substance hydrolyzed proteins of yeast and at least one additional active substance.

As an example, additional(s) ActiveE(s) substance(s) may have a moisturizing effect and/or firming effect, and/or anti-aging effect, and/or effect against seborrhea, and/or the effect of restoring hair, and/or effect in respect of gloss, and/or softness, and/or hair growth, and/or repair, and/or weight loss, and/or cleansing and/or antioxidant and/or depigmentary, and/or protects the blood vessels, and/or anti-inflammatory and/or antibacterial and/or antifungal effect.

According to the invention, in a preferred cosmetic composition at least one additional cosmetic substance has the same cosmetic effect, as hydrolyzed proteins, yeast.

According to the invention, preferably therapeutic composition of at least one additional active substance has the same therapeutic effect, as hydrolyzed proteins, yeast.

As hydrolyzed proteins, yeast and at least one additional active substance have the same cosmetic or therapeutic effect, the resulting effect is preferably synergistic.

Thus, according to the invention, hydrolyzed yeast proteins represent a new natural agent, particularly suitable for the manufacture of cosmetic and therapeutic compositions.

The present invention also relates to a method of manufacturing a cosmetic or therapeutic composition consisting of the following stages:

the hydrolysis of proteins insoluble fraction of yeast to obtain hydrolyzed proteins, yeast, and

- mixing the above hydrolyzed yeast proteins with a suitable cosmetic or therapeutic media.

In particular, acceptable cosmetic or therapeutic media vybiraut of the above additives and/or excipients.

The present invention also relates to a method of obtaining, as defined above, cosmetic or therapeutic composition consisting of the following stages:

the hydrolysis of the protein insoluble fraction of yeast to obtain hydrolyzed proteins, yeast, and

- mixing the above hydrolyzed yeast proteins with at least the stage is nitelines active substance and an acceptable cosmetic or therapeutic media.

The present invention also relates to the use of hydrolysed yeast proteins obtained from the insoluble fraction of yeast, as active substances in cosmetic and/or therapeutic compositions.

The present invention applies in particular to the use as defined above, characterized in that the said hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained from the insoluble fraction of yeast.

The present invention applies in particular to the use as defined above, characterized in that the said hydrolyzed yeast proteins produced by enzymatic hydrolysis and/or acid hydrolysis and/or alkaline hydrolysis.

The present invention relates to the use as defined above, characterized in that the said hydrolyzed yeast proteins produced by enzymatic hydrolysis using at least peptidases, preferably selected from papain, trypsin, chymotrypsin, subtilisin, pepsin, thermolysin, pronase, fluvastatin, enterokinase, protease factor XA, Purina, bromeline, proteinase K, generate I, termites, carboxypeptidase A, carboxypeptidase B, collagenase, alcalase®, neutrase® and/or mixtures thereof.

The present invention applies in particular to the use as defined above, characterized in that the said hydrolyzed b is the CTL yeast obtained from yeasts of the genus Saccharomyces, Kluyveromyces, Torula, Candida, Hansenula, Pichia and/or their mixtures, predpochtitelno Saccharomyces, more preferably Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

The present invention also relates to the use as defined above, characterized in that the said hydrolysed proteins contain at least 40%, preferably at least 45%, more preferably at least 50%, even more preferably at least 55%, even more preferably at least 60% of the yeast proteins having a molecular weight in the range between 1 and 5 kDa.

The present invention also relates to the use as defined above, characterized in that the said hydrolysed proteins contain not more than 55%, preferably not more than 50%, more preferably not more than 45%, even more preferably not more than 40%, even more preferably not more than 35% of hydrolysed yeast proteins having a molecular weight less than 1 kDa.

The present invention also relates to the use as defined above, characterized in that the ratio AA/AB these hydrolyzed yeast proteins is less than or equal to 35%, in particular less than or equal to 30%, in particular less than or equal to 25%, in particular less than or equal to 20%

The present invention applies in particular to the use as defined above, characterized in that the said hydrolysed proteins constituted the forms specified therapeutic or cosmetic compositions with a content of from 0.001% to 20% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, more preferably from 0.001% to 15% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, even more preferably from 0.001% to 10% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, even more preferably from 0.01% to 3% of hydrolysed yeast proteins, even more preferably from 0.01% to 2% of hydrolysed yeast proteins.

The present invention also relates to the use as defined above, characterized in that the cosmetic or therapeutic composition contains at least one additive selected from conseravtive, chelating agents, dyes, UV radiation, pH regulator, improvers consistency, odorants or antioxidant and/or at least one excipient selected from hydrophilic compounds, hydrophobic compounds and surface-active substances.

The present invention relates to a method of cosmetic treatment, comprising a stage of bringing into contact with the skin and/or skin appendages and/or mucous membranes of the cosmetic composition, as defined above, or which can be obtained by the process defined above.

The term "contact" hereinafter will be called "application".

Therapies may include one or more application per day, preferably from one to three applications per day.

The frequency of application of the cosmetic composition can be reduced with t is for time.

Method of cosmetic treatment may consist of a short period of therapy for one or more weeks, or long-term therapy for several years. The method of treatment may also consist of a number of repeated courses of therapy every year or several times a year.

The present invention relates, in particular, to a method of cosmetic treatment, as defined above, intended to moisturize the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or skin appendages, and/or improve the repair of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or skin appendages, and/or improve the strength of the dermis, and/or to combat skin aging, and/or regulating the secretion of sebum, and/or reduce the amount of dandruff and/or hair restoration and/or improvement of hair growth.

Hydration of the epidermis is directed simultaneously to restore the quality of the skin barrier, namely, tightness, limiting the evaporation of water, and the creation of favorable conditions for the presence of molecules, exciting water, for example, glycosaminoglycans, in particular, hyaluronic acid.

According to the invention, a method of cosmetic treatment is particularly useful in the treatment and/or prevention of dry skin or dandruff.

Repair of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or skin appendages has the purpose to promote physical healing, in particular,by activating the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.

Skin tightening has the purpose to support and enhance skin density, in particular, by activating the synthesis of elastin synthesis and maturation of collagen and contraction of the collagen lattice.

Fighting skin aging refers to the delay and/or reduce the signs of aging.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a therapy designed to combat the signs of aging associated with the hydration of the skin.

According to the invention, a method of cosmetic treatment intended for subjects 20 years, in particular from 30 years, in particular from 40 years, in particular from 50 years.

In particular, regulation of secretion of sebum is to reduce the secretion of sebum.

According to the invention, a method of cosmetic treatment is particularly useful in the treatment of oily or oily skin types, particularly oily skin types, called "problem skin" or "skin with tendency to acne and/or hair, called "fat".

Repair hair is hair restoration, in particular, by smoothing the hair cuticle and/or restore Shine and/or softness of her hair,

According to the invention, a method of cosmetic treatment is especially suitable for the subject with damaged hair, in particular, due to solar irradiation, contact with the sea, too private washing, staining, scratching, Henichesk the second wave and so on

Improved hair growth has a goal to increase centerice hair growth, also known as hair growth.

According to the invention, a method of cosmetic treatment, in particular, is suitable for the subject of slow hair growth and/or in the case of normal hair loss.

In particular, the normal hair loss is called caused by androgenic alopecia, endocrine alopecia or baldness associated with age.

According to a preferred embodiment, a method of cosmetic treatment according to the invention is suitable for use on the face, in particular, on the contour of the eyes, nose, forehead, chin, body, particularly on the arms, legs, back, and/or the scalp.

The present invention also relates to hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained from the insoluble fraction of yeast, for use in medicine, in particular for the treatment and/or prevention of pathological dry skin, pathological problems with healing and/or pathological giperborei, and/or acne.

In particular, the present invention relates to hydrolyzed yeast proteins, as defined above, or obtained through defined above method of obtaining for the treatment and/or prevention of pathological dry skin, pathological problems with healing and/or pathological giperborei, and/or acne and/or pathological hair loss. This is the invention is directed to their use for the manufacture of pharmaceutical compositions as specified above.

According to the invention, therapeutic composition is particularly useful for the treatment of pathological dry skin, also called xerosis, in particular, in the case of acne, dry skin associated with eczema or psoriasis, or pathologic dryness of the scalp, in particular, is associated with dandruff.

According to the invention, therapeutic composition is particularly suitable for the treatment of pathological healing, for example, hypertrophic wound healing, keloid healing, scarring and tightening and/or delays healing, in particular, delays associated with poor disinfection, as well as delays vascular and neurological origin.

According to the invention, therapeutic composition is also suitable for the treatment of pathological giperborei, with particular associated with disorders of hormonal regulation, particularly in adolescents, pregnant women and women in menopause

According to the present invention, therapeutic compositions are also suitable for therapy of pathological acne, in particular, juvenile acne associated with hyperseborrhea.

According to the invention, a therapeutic composition suitable for the treatment of pathological hair loss, also called pelada resulting emotional turmoil, disorder of the thyroid zhelezy/or therapy, when alopecia is a side effect (e.g., cancer therapy).

In particular, the use as defined above, directed to the local application of specified therapeutic composition to the skin and/or skin appendages and/or mucous membranes.

The use as defined above, may consist of one or more applications per day, preferably from one to three applications per day.

The frequency of application of therapeutic composition may decrease during therapy.

Therapy may consist of emergency treatment, from several days to several weeks, and long-term therapy for several years. Therapy can also consist of repeated courses repeated every year or several times a year.

The present invention also relates to the use of cosmetic compositions or therapeutic compositions, as defined above, aiming at the treatment of side effects or adverse events when other therapies.

In particular, these side effects or unwanted signs lead to dryness of the skin, for example, associated with eczema. EXAMPLES:

Below the invention is illustrated by the following non-limiting examples:

Example 1: Getting gidrolizovannykh yeast proteins according to the present invention

Equipment and methods

Aqueous suspension of the driven the s cells Saccbaromyces cerevisiae, having a dry matter content of from 12 to 30 wt.%, subjected to heat treatment for 1 to 3 hours at a temperature of from 70°C to 90°C (to inactivate endogenous cellular enzymes). This heat treatment causes plasmas yeast, then it becomes possible to separate the insoluble fraction from the soluble because it is limited to the soluble fraction. Department solubilizing fraction from the insoluble fraction is carried out by several successive stages of centrifugation and washing with water (at least 2 successive stages, preferably at least 3).

Dedicated insoluble fraction having a dry matter content of from 12 to 25 wt.% further subjected to hydrolysis by adding at least one exogenous protease for 18 hours at a temperature from 45°C Yes 65°C. for Example, the protease is a papain used in a concentration of from 0.01 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%.

Solubilizing gidralizovanny fraction is separated from the hydrolyzed insoluble fraction by means of several successive stages of centrifugation and washing with water (at least 2 successive stages, preferably at least 3).

Solubilizing gidralizovanny fraction is concentrated by at least one stage of evaporation for receiving the Oia concentrated fraction.

The concentrated fraction, possibly cleanse by filtering or clarification before spray drying.

Solubilization hydrolyzed and possibly concentrated and/or purified and/or dried fraction obtained in this way corresponds hydrolyzed yeast proteins according to the present invention.

The molecular weight and the profile of molecular weight hydrolyzed yeast proteins determined by liquid gel permeation chromatography with detection by ultraviolet radiation at 215 nm using a column for gel filtration SEPHADEX Pharmacia HR 10/30 Calibration is carried out using protein standards of known size, which allow you to calibrate the system and to estimate the molecular weight of the mixture.

The ratio of AA/OA determined by measuring the total nitrogen and the amount of nitrogen in amine groups.

Total nitrogen (OA) is determined according to the method of kildala established on the basis of the "official methods of analysis of diet products" (JO dated 3 November 1979).

The nitrogen in the amino (AA), are determined by a derivation with 1-2 naphthoquinone-4-sulfonate (NHS) (N. NEHRING, A. HOCK, improved method for determination aminonitrogen, Pharmazie, 1971, 26, 616-619).

Results

According to the invention, hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained from the concentrated solubilizing the Nana faction, cleaned and dried, and then mark the letter "a". They have a slightly beige color.

Table 1 and Figure 1 demonstrate the molecular mass distribution of hydrolyzed yeast proteins according to the invention in comparison with those for hydrolyzed yeast proteins (B), obtained by hydrolysis of whole yeast cells.

Hydrolyzed yeast proteins (C) is obtained by heat treatment of a suspension of Saccharomyces cerevisiae cells for 1 to 3 hours at a temperature between 70°C and 90°C followed by the addition of at least one exogenous protease for at least 18 hours at the temperature from 45°C to 65°C. for Example, the protease is a papain used in concentrations of from 0.01 wt.% to 0.5 wt.%. Solubilizing gidralizovanny fraction is separated from gidrolizovannogo insoluble fraction through several successive stages of centrifugation and washing with water (at least 2 successive stages, preferably at least 3). Solubilizing gidralizovanny fraction is concentrated by at least one stage continuous or batch evaporation to obtain a concentrated fraction. The concentrated fraction, possibly cleanse by filtering or Svetlaya before spray drying to obtain hydrolyzed protein a is x yeast (In).

According to the invention, a large part of hydrolysed yeast proteins is a protein with a molecular mass of greater than or equal to 1 kDa and less than or equal to 5 kDa (64,2%), other hydrolyzed proteins have a molecular weight, essentially a smaller 1 kDa(31,6%).

As for proteins obtained from whole cells (C), then they have a molecular weight distribution is completely different: most of hydrolysed yeast proteins has a molecular weight less than 1 kDa (67,3%), while the other hydrolyzed proteins essentially have a molecular weight greater or equal to 1 kDa.

Table 1
Molecular mass (in kDa)Distribution (%)
AndIn
≥100,31,1
≥5 and<10a 3.92,0
from ≥1 to<564,229,6
<131,667,3

According to the invention, once the Itza between the profile of molecular weight of the hydrolyzed proteins and yeast protein yeast the resulting hydrolysis of whole cells, clearly visible in figure 2.

In figure 2 the products presented first, have a higher molecular weight. Hydrolyzed yeast proteins are more concentrated in the field of higher molecular weight with greater intensity. Hydrolyzed proteins compositions demonstrate concentration peaks in the area of lower molecular weight, which means a greater degree of degradation.

With regard to the relations AA/OA, Table 2 shows that the hydrolysed yeast proteins according to the present invention (A) are relevant AA/OA in the range between 15 and 28%, while the ratio for gidrolizovannykh yeast proteins obtained from whole cells (C), is in the range between 32 and 40%.

Table 2
AndIn
AA/OA (%)15-2832-40

The ratio of AA/OA allows to evaluate the degradation of protein: less than it is expressed, the greater the number of proteins represented in the native form, and Vice versa, than it is more pronounced, the more proteins are presented in a degraded form.

N the table 3 shows that hydrolyzed yeast proteins according to the invention (A) actually have a very small amount of free amino acids compared to gidralizovanny yeast proteins obtained from whole cells (C).

Thus, hydrolyzed yeast proteins according to the invention (A) show less degradation than hydrolyzed yeast proteins in the composition of the Century

In addition, Table 3 shows that the composition of amino acids in hydrolyzed yeast proteins according to the present invention (A) differs from hydrolyzed proteins obtained with whole cells (C).

Table 3
A (% yoy)In (% yoy)
Free amino acidsThe total number of amino acidsFree amino acidsThe total number of amino acids
ASPH/oto 7.590,76
SERN/a3,621,4 2,8
GLU0,4710,515,513,2
GLYN/a30,63
HISN/a1,610,51,3
ARGN/a2,381,23,4
THRN/a4.26 deaths1,13,2
ALAN/a4,752.95,1
PRON/a2,930,5the 3.8
CYSN/a0,20,10,3
TYRN/a189 0,31,5
VALN/a41,33,6
METN/a0,560,40,8
LYSN/a6,231,55
ILEN/a3,4213
LEUN/a5,522,14,6
PHEN/a2,941,12,5
Total0,4765,412263,1
N/a: Not determined (the values are too small)

Example 2; the Effect of hydrolysed yeast proteins according to the invention in relation to the prof who La the expression of keratinocytes and fibroblasts

Equipment and methods

The effect of hydrolysed yeast proteins according to the invention in respect of the expression profile of normal keratinocytes of the human epidermis and normal fibroblasts of the dermis person is judged on DNA chips.

The first chip contains 164 gene in human keratinocytes, in particular, are involved in growth, differentiation, adhesion, communication and cell death.

The second microchip contains 143 gene in human fibroblasts, in particular, are involved in growth, differentiation, adhesion, communication, and death of cells, the synthesis and degradation of extracellular matrix and stress.

Normal keratinocytes of the human epidermis and normal fibroblasts of the dermis person kept in culture for 24 h to 96 h in the presence or in the absence of hydrolysed yeast proteins according to Example 1. Cells are then washed and the RNA extracted and okimawin this RNA receive cDNA using reverse transcription. The obtained cDNA labeled before hybridization on the chip corresponding to the same cell type.

The expression level of each gene in the absence of gidrolizovannykh yeast proteins compared with that in the presence of these hydrolyzed proteins, yeast.

Results

Among the genes activated by the chip fibroblasts of the dermis, there are genes involved in cell proliferation and synthesis of unclutch the second matrix.

The results obtained on the chip of epidermal keratinocytes show that yeast proteins according to the invention stimulate the differentiation of the keratinocytes of the epidermis and inhibit expression of the genes encoding the proteins of the cell matrix, which implies moisturizing effectivley differentiation of keratinocytes in fact involved in strengthening the skin barrier and allows you to limit water loss. Inhibition of expression of genes encoding proteins of the cellular matrix has a similar effect.

Example 3: Moisturizing, optionnally and restorative properties hydrospanner yeast proteins according to the invention. Equipment and methods

Used hydrolyzed yeast proteins are proteins described in Example 1.

(i) a Moisturizing effect

Tests are conducted on normal keratinocytes of the human epidermis (NHEK, Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes), planted in the wells of 96-hole tablet in KSFM medium (medium for keratinocytes without serum - keratinocyte serum-free medium). Synthesis Lindow, FLG (filaggrin), SK10 (cytokeratin), TGK (transglutaminase K) and hyaluronic acid appreciate the presence of various concentrations of hydrolysed yeast proteins (from 0.04 mg/ml to 1 mg/ml). In three holes with a culture of support conditions.

During the synthesis of lipids and the synthesis FLG, SK10, TGK as a positive con the Rola use calcium, and the synthesis of hyaluronic acid as a positive control using retinoic acid.

Negative control is empty cultural environment.

A synthesis of lipids analyzed by imaging fluorescent phosphor coating, and the synthesis of hyaluronic acid evaluated by measuring the concentration of hyaluronic acid released in the environment.

Synthesis of FLG and SK10 assessed by immune labeling of cells after 72 hours of content in the culture, and the synthesis G by immune labeling of cells after 48 hours

(ii) anti-Aging effect.

Normal fibroblasts of the dermis person (NHDF, Normal human dermal fibroblasts) and aged normal fibroblasts of the dermis person (AgNHDF normal human dermal aged fibroblasts) are planted in the wells of 96-hole tablet in DMEM (Dulbecco''s modified Eagle medium - modified Dulbecco Wednesday Needle)+10% SVF (stromal vascular fraction - the fraction of the vascular stroma). Tests carried out in DMEM+1% SVF.

Test on the proliferation of fibroblasts and test on collagen synthesis and glycosaminoglycan carried out at different concentrations of hydrolysed yeast proteins. In three holes with a culture of support conditions.

Negative control is empty cultural environment.

Test on the proliferation carried out after 24 h after plating cells. In the culture medium was added [3H-thymidine. As a positive control, use the EGF (epidermal growth factor - epidermal growth factor).

Synthesis glycosaminoglycan and collagen appreciate in confluent 80% of the cells, to which, respectively, add [3H]-glucosamine or [3H]-Proline. Then use retinoic acid as a positive control.

After 24 hours incubation macromolecules extracted and measured by incorporation of radioactive precursors.

(iii) a Firming effect

Tests performed on aged normal fibroblasts of the dermis person (AgNHDF).

The synthesis and maturation of collagen assessed after pre-culturing of the cells in the flask for 8 days in the presence of various concentrations of hydrolysed yeast proteins. The negative control is an empty culture medium, and the positive control is a TGFβ (transforming growth factor β transforming growth factor β) and vitamin C. the Cells are then seeded into the chamber for culturing. Immediately before the merger, the cells fixed in methanol and determine the presence of collagen immunochemical methods using specific antibodies to collagen I and fluorescent secondary antibodies. The level of expression of intracellular and extracellular collagen and its localization in the matrix is assessed through a microscope.

p> The contraction of collagen lattices evaluated after culturing cells in the flask for 8 days in the presence of various concentrations of hydrolysed yeast proteins. The negative control is an empty culture medium, and the positive control is a TGFβ. The resulting suspension of cells is then injected into a solution of collagen type I at a controlled pH. A few hours later, the solution turns into a gel so what is the equivalent of the dermis with a definite contour. The diameter and number of cells of each equivalent dermis is measured through a defined kinetics.

Synthesis of elastin evaluated after 8 days of culturing cells in the flask in the presence of different concentrations gidrolizovannykh proteins of yeast. The positive control is an empty cultural environment, and the negative control is a vitamin Skladki then seeded into the culture chamber. Directly before the merge cells fixed in methanol and the presence of elastin determine immunochemical methods using specific antibodies to elastin and secondary fluorescent antibodies. The level of expression of elastin analyzed using a microscope.

(iv) Reparatory effect

Tests performed on reconstructed human epidermis. Samples of the reconstructed epider the ISA cultivated. On the fifth day of culture process gidrolizovannykh proteins of yeast, tested at three different concentrations for local application.

The negative control represents untreated culture, the positive control is a retinoic acid applied locally. Processing resumes on the seventh day, and stop maintaining cultures on the tenth day.

The release of hyaluronic acid is quantitatively determined in the culture supernatant with special modified ELISA test (enzyme linked immunosorbent assay enzyme - linked immunosorbent assay). The results are expressed in mg/ml released hyaluronic acid and the percentage of stimulation relative to the untreated control.

Espresso hyaluronic acid in samples of epidermis appreciate immunohistological method.

(v) Statistics

Comparison between groups conducted by analysis of variance (ANOVA) using the criterion of multiple comparisons of Dunnet.

Results

(i) Evaluation of moisturizing effect of the epidermis.

In the presence of a solution of hydrolysed yeast proteins, the synthesis of lipids and hialuronowy acid is activated in comparison with the negative control.

In addition, in the presence of a solution of hydrolysed yeast proteins observed with kalinovaya secretion FLG, CK10 and TGK-effect dose.

(ii) to assess the anti-aging effect on the dermis

In the presence of a solution of hydrolyzed proteins, yeast activation observed cell proliferation and increased synthesis of the main components of the extracellular matrix (compared with a negative control).

(iii) evaluation of therapeutic effect

In the presence of a solution of hydrolysed yeast proteins observed increase in the expression level of collagen and maturation of collagen, which is indicated by its location in the matrix, compared with the negative control. Increasing the density equivalent of the dermis (the ratio of the diameters of a number of weaker cells compared to negative control) means better compression of the collagen network. In addition, the synthesis of elastin is activated compared with the negative control. All these factors indicate that hydrolyzed yeast proteins improve the biomechanical properties of the dermis (in particular, in respect of elasticity and compressibility).

(iv) Evaluation of reparative effect

In the presence of a solution of hydrolysed yeast proteins observed increase in expression of hyaluronic chilcote (compared with a negative control).

Example 4: Properties that inhibit the seborrhea and acne

Equipment and methods

A solution of hydrolyzed proteins to be applied on the skin is or the scalp of subjects, demonstrating Hyperborea, respectively, at the level of the skin or scalp.

The secretion of sebum is then assessed, applying plaster, absorbent sebum on the part of the body undergoing treatment. This patch is then subjected to analysis in order to quantify the secretion of sebum.

The secretion of sebum compared with the secretion from the same subject prior to therapy. Results

A solution of hydrolysed yeast proteins can reduce the number of secreted sebum.

Example 5: applying to the hair

Equipment and methods

(i) Hydrolyzed yeast proteins

A solution of hydrolysed yeast proteins such as described in Example 1.

(ii) the Effect of dandruff

The solution of gidrolizovannykh proteins of yeast applied to the scalp of subjects suffering from dandruff. After treatment with a solution of hydrolysed yeast proteins to the site exposed therapy, applied the patch to collect dandruff from the scalp.

Compare the amount of dandruff collected on the patch before and after therapy.

(iii) Growth bands

Growth of hair is determined as follows: prior to therapy a lock of hair of the patient's paint 2-3 cm from the root to the scalp put a solution gidrolizovannykh proteins of yeast and measure the distance between the root and the beginning of the painting.

The dynamics of R is a hundred after therapy in group subjected to treatment subjects compared with growth, obtained in the group of subjects not exposed to the treatment.

(iv) Shine

Shine determined by measuring the amount and intensity of light reflected from the surface for this purpose, make pictures using crosspolarization and without polarization. Two pictures convert to grayscale and define the hair by subtracting the light between the two photos.

The Shine of the hair after application of the solution of hydrolyzed yeast proteins compared to the Shine of the hair, certain prior therapy.

(v) the Softness of the hair

The softness of the hair assessed through sensory analysis by a group of experts consisting of three qualified specialists evaluating the softness of the hair touching.

The softness of the hair mark on a scale from 0 to 10, where 0 corresponds to no softness, and mark 10 corresponds significant softness.

The softness of the hair after application of the solution of hydrolyzed yeast proteins compared with that measured before the treatment.

(vi) hair Restoration

Hair restoration determined by measuring the surface topography of hair using interferometric microscope.

Parameters that help determine the condition of the cuticle scales on the hair surface, the following:

- opening scales

length scales

- surface topology, in private the minute roughness

The size of the analyzed surface is 120 30 microns.

Restore hair after applying the solution of hydrolyzed yeast proteins compared with the status of the hair before the treatment.

Results

Applied to the scalp solutions of hydrolysed yeast proteins can achieve the effect aimed dandruff and increase hair growth

A solution of hydrolyzed proteins, yeast also has the effect of restoring hair, and helps to improve the Shine, softness, and hair restoration. In particular, a decrease in the number of places not covered by the cuticle scales, increasing the length scales and reduce roughness.

Example 6: Examples of cosmetic compositions and therapeutic compositions according to the invention

The following compositions are non-limiting examples of the present invention.

Composition 1: moisturizing cream (oil in water)

IngredientsPercentage (wt.%)
Hydrolyzed yeast proteins (composition A)1,5
Caprylic and capric triglyceride4
Mineral oil 2
Stearyl alcohol3
Isopropyl palmitate2
Glycerol stearate PEG-1006
Dimethicone4
Glycerin8
Preservative0,3
Water69,2

Composition 2: lotion (oil in water)

IngredientsPercentage (wt.%)
Gidralizovanny proteins of yeast (composition A)2,50
Paraffin oil2,60
Propylene glycol1,40
Triglyceride1,0
PEG-751,0
Coconut kaprilat/karinat1,0

Glycerol stearate 0,6
Dimethicone0,5
Polyacrylic acid0,3
Sodium hydroxide0,11
Perfume0,10
EDTA0,03
Glycerin5,00
Dye0,32
Preservative1,50
Purified water82,04

Composition 3: dandruff shampoo

IngredientsPercentage (wt.%)
Hydrolyzed yeast proteins (composition A)1.5
Sodium lauryl sulfate30
Esterified lauryl disodium
Cocoamphodiacetate
Hexyleneglycol
Cocomidopropyl oxide
Extarct Indian ajiqizhy1
Preservative0.2
Citric acidpH 6
Water100

Track 4: moisturizing mask

IngredientsPercentage (wt.%)
Gidralizovanny proteins of yeast (composition A)4,00
Timemoney glitter4,00
Propylene glycol3,00
Glycerin3,00
Urea3,00
Murinova acid0,30
Perfume0,30
Resin acacia0,50
Xanthan gum0,10
EDTA0,10

Allatoin0,10
Hydroxide sodium0,06
Polyvinyl alcohol : 10,00
Talc10,00
95% alcohol15,00
Purified water46,54

1. Cosmetic composition comprising hydrolyzed yeast proteins as active substance and at least one acceptable carrier, characterized in that the said hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained by exogenous enzymatic hydrolysis, and/or acid hydrolysis, and/or alkaline hydrolysis of the membranes of yeast.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis using at least peptidases, preferably selected from papain, trypsin, chymotrypsin, subtilisin, pepsin, thermolysin, pronase, fluvastatin, enterokinase, protease factor XA, Purina, bromeline, proteinase K, greasy I, termites, carboxypeptidase A, carboxypeptidase B, collagenase and/or mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained the C shell yeast belonging to the genus Saccharomyces, the genus Kluyveromyces, the genus Torula, the genus Candida, the genus Hansenula, the genus Pichia, and/or mixtures thereof, preferably to the genus Saccharomyces, more preferably mean Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

4. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydrolyzed yeast proteins contain at least 40%, preferably at least 45%, more preferably at least 50%, even more preferably at least 55%, even more preferably at least 60% of the yeast proteins having a molecular weight in the range between 1 and 5 kDa.

5. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the hydrolyzed yeast proteins contain not more than 55%, preferably not more than 50%, more preferably not more than 45%, even more preferably not more than 40%, even more preferably not more than 35% of hydrolysed yeast proteins with molecular weight less than 1 kDa.

6. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the ratio AA/OA hydrolyzed yeast proteins is less than or equal to 35%, in particular less than or equal to 30%, in particular less than or equal to 25%, in particular less than or equal to 20%.

7. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains at least one additive selected from preservatives, chelating agents, dyes, UV radiation, pH Adjuster, improvers consistency, odorants and antioxidant, and/or measures at the one excipient, selected from hydrophilic compounds, hydrophobic compounds and surface-active substances.

8. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that (a) hydrolyzed yeast proteins contain at least 40%, preferably at least 45%, more preferably at least 50%, even more preferably at least 55%, even more preferably at least 60% of the yeast proteins having a molecular weight in the range between 1 and 5 kDa; and
(b) hydrolyzed yeast proteins contain not more than 55%, preferably not more than 50%, more preferably not more than 45%, even more preferably not more than 40%, even more preferably not more than 35% of hydrolysed yeast proteins with molecular weight less than 1 kDa.

9. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that (a) hydrolyzed yeast proteins contain at least 40%, preferably at least 45%, more preferably at least 50%, even more preferably at least 55%, even more preferably at least 60% of the yeast proteins having a molecular weight in the range between 1 and 5 kDa; and
(b) hydrolyzed yeast proteins contain not more than 55%, preferably not more than 50%, more preferably not more than 45%, even more preferably not more than 40%, even more preferably not more than 35% of hydrolysed yeast proteins with molecular weight less than 1 kDa and
(C) the ratio of AA/OA hydrolyzed yeast proteins is less than or equal to 35%, in particular less than or equal to 30%, in particular less than or equal to 25%, in particular less than or equal to 20%.

10. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that (a) hydrolyzed yeast proteins contain at least 40%, preferably at least 45%, more preferably at least 50%, even more preferably at least 55%, even more preferably at least 60% of the yeast proteins having a molecular weight in the range between 1 and 5 kDa; and
(b) hydrolyzed yeast proteins contain not more than 55%, preferably not more than 50%, more preferably not more than 45%, even more preferably not more than 40%, even more preferably not more than 35% of hydrolysed yeast proteins with molecular weight less than 1 kDa; and
(C) the ratio of AA/OA hydrolyzed yeast proteins is less than or equal to 35%, in particular less than or equal to 30%, in particular less than or equal to 25%, in particular less than or equal to 20%; and
(g) hydrolyzed yeast proteins obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis using at least peptidases, preferably selected from papain, trypsin, chymotrypsin, subtilisin, pepsin, thermolysin, pronase, fluvastatin, enterokinase, protease factor XA, Purina, bromeline, proteinase K, greasy I, termites, CT is exopeptidase And, carboxypeptidase B, collagenase and/or mixtures thereof.

11. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that (a) hydrolyzed yeast proteins contain at least 40%, preferably at least 45%, more preferably at least 50%, even more preferably at least 55%, even more preferably at least 60% of the yeast proteins having a molecular weight in the range between 1 and 5 kDa; and
(b) the ratio AA/OA hydrolyzed yeast proteins is less than or equal to 35%, in particular less than or equal to 30%, in particular less than or equal to 25%, in particular less than or equal to 20%.

12. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that (a) hydrolyzed yeast proteins contain not more than 55%, preferably not more than 50%, more preferably not more than 45%, even more preferably not more than 40%, even more preferably not more than 35% of hydrolysed yeast proteins with molecular weight less than 1 kDa; and (b) the ratio AA/OA hydrolyzed yeast proteins is less than or equal to 35%, in particular less than or equal to 30%, in particular less than or equal to 25%, in particular less than or equal to 20%.

13. A method of obtaining a cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising the following stages:
hydrolysis of the protein shells of yeast by exogenous enzymatic hydrolysis, and/or acid hydrolysis, and/or alkaline hydrolysis to obtain the guide is risovannyh proteins of yeast, and mixing these hydrolyzed yeast proteins with a suitable cosmetic carrier.

14. The method according to item 13, wherein the hydrolysed yeast proteins obtained by enzymatic hydrolysis using at least peptidases, preferably selected from papain, trypsin, chymotrypsin, subtilisin, pepsin, thermolysin, pronase, fluvastatin, enterokinase, protease factor XA, Purina, bromeline, proteinase K, greasy I, termites, carboxypeptidase A, carboxypeptidase B, collagenase and/or mixtures thereof.

15. The use of hydrolysed yeast proteins obtained from membranes of yeast, as active substances in cosmetic compositions according to claim 1.

16. Method of cosmetic treatment, comprising contacting the skin and/or skin appendages and/or mucous membranes with a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, or composition, which is obtained by the method according to item 13 or 14.

17. Method of cosmetic treatment according to article 16, that is designed to moisturize the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or skin appendages, and/or to improve the repair of the skin and/or mucous membranes and/or skin appendages, and/or to increase the strength of the dermis, and/or to fight against skin aging, and/or for regulating the secretion of sebum, and/or to reduce the amount of dandruff.



 

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