Perfluorocarbon emulsion for cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations

FIELD: cosmetology, in particular cosmetic and/or dermatological agents.

SUBSTANCE: claimed emulsion contains perfluorocarbons, water, oil phase and emulsifier. Additionally oil phase contains essential oil as agent for increased oxygen utilization by skin. Emulsion of present invention allows skin saturation with oxygen and expedites oxygen utilization interruption by skin.

EFFECT: emulsion increasing oxygen utilization rate in all epidermis layers.

4 cl, 1 ex, 1 tbl, 3 dwg

 

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetology and relates to cosmetic and/or dermatological supplying the skin with oxygen.

Life in the modern metropolis makes our body constantly feel the lack of oxygen, which is reflected primarily in the skin. In the skin, as in the blood and lymphatic systems, the state of hypoxia is associated with a slowdown of biosynthetic reactions, including the synthesis of collagen and elastin. As a rule, in his youth, the oxygenation of body tissues sufficient for normal functioning of cells, however, with age, or under physiological disorders of reduced diffusion of oxygen from blood to tissue, which greatly contributes to biochemical disorders, leading to reduced turgor and elasticity of the skin, thinning, i.e. to the aging process. To compensate for degenerative processes in the skin it needs additional oxygenation.

To this end it is known to use in the cosmetic beauty of ozone therapy. Ozone is injected by the subcutaneous method of microinjection in problem areas, which improves the metabolism and regeneration of skin tissue.

You know the procedure, "Occitania" in a special capsule to create an environment with a high concentration of oxygen. While there is an increase in level, the oxygen in the tissues, the increased circulation of blood enriched with oxygen, which helps to cleanse and regenerate the skin (see http://sellena/ru).

However, such procedures are carried out only in terms of beauty.

Currently used in various cosmetic and dermatological preparations, in which those components that enrich the skin with oxygen. Among the other tools are widely used in cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations containing perfluorocarbons.

In the late 70-ies of the last century it was found that the perfluorocarbons are excellent solvents for vital living organism gases - oxygen and carbon dioxide. These results, as well as chemical and biological inertness of perfluorocarbons, served as the basis for the creation of blood substitutes in the gas transport function "Fluosol-DA (Japan), "Oxygent"(CUIA), "Perftoran" (Russia).

It also turned out that the perfluorocarbons are perspectivnymi compounds for the preparation of drugs? application.

Was patented, in particular, the use of perfluorocarbons as part of improving the metabolism in epithelial tissues, and to stimulate healing of micropores and cracking of the skin (Patent RF 2033163 And 61 To 33/19, 1995).

Known application of stable emulsions lane is Torugart as a tool for biological rejuvenation of skin tissue by sliding the biochemical processes in the direction indicators, typical physiologically younger (RF Patent No. 2119790, class a 61 K 7/00 1996).

Know the use of aqueous emulsions of perfluorocarbons, stabilized by phospholipids, as a means of manifesting hydrating effect on epithelial tissues (RF Patent 2102972, class a 61 K 7/00, 1997).

Known aqueous emulsion of a perfluorocarbon, which is stabilized by phospholipids and contains medicines of various kinds of actions dermatologic agents, cytotoxic agents, immunomodulators, antiviral and antifungal agents, heparin, antibiotics, anesthetics local action, antihistamines and antipsoriatics drugs and others present in the aqueous phase of this emulsion (German Patent 4221256, a 61 K 9/127, 1994).

The obtained aqueous emulsion of a perfluorocarbon containing perfluorocarbons, water, an oil phase and emulsifier (German Patent 4236607, a 61 K 7/48, 1994). The emulsion may be used to obtain the appropriate cosmetic and/or dermatological in various preparative form, is intended to supply the skin with oxygen and is closest to the one proposed.

However, ongoing perfluorocarbon emulsion further transport of oxygen in the skin is no guarantee that all dostavlja is the first perfluorocarbon oxygen can be effectively utilized by the skin cells. Oxygen is necessary for the synthesis of ATP is a high energy compounds in the role of a universal fuel cells, i.e. the energy of ATP is used to carry out the majority of cellular processes with energy. Violation of the bioenergetic function of mitochondria, the reduction in the activity of ATP - syntetycznego complex separation processes of respiration and phosphorylation reduces the production and reserves of ATP in the cells.

Violation of the bioenergetic function of mitochondria is one of the earliest manifestations of cell damage caused by the decrease in the rate of oxygen consumption by the mitochondria due to the disruption vectors of the electrons. This occurs upon exposure to a variety of adverse exogenous (urbanization, Smoking etc) and endogenous factors (disease, drug therapy, condition after an illness, physiological aging, and so on); the action of many toxic compounds, for example, ions of heavy metals such as mercury or silver, some hydrophobic compounds, derivatives of various hydrocarbons, as well as during the peroxide oxidation of lipids.

Therefore, in such cases delivered emulsion of a perfluorocarbon oxygen cannot be fully used, and for its effective use at the cellular level to eliminate the causes, prepa is concerned disposed.

The search for natural substances that increase the rate of oxygen consumption of the skin cells and eliminating violations, preventing its utilization has led the applicant to the study of the properties of essential oils. Essential oils - volatile liquid mixture of organic substances produced by plants with high biological activity.

It has long been known about the healing properties of essential oils. Essential oils have been used in medicine, cosmetics, just in everyday life (see kN. Rei and other Scents of plants and human health, Togliatti, 1997).

Essential oils are specific herbal extracts, which are based on a special class of vysokoletuchih substances terpenes and their oxygen derivatives. Essential oils are clear, colorless or slightly colored in pale yellow or green liquid, oily to the touch and quickly evaporating in the air.

There are four main methods of production of essential oils: distillation or steam distillation, the method of extraction under pressure (from the peel of citrus fruit), the method of solvation based on the ability of essential oils to dissolve in organic solvents (alcohol, ether) and the enfleurage method, based on the ability of fats to absorb and record essential oils.

Essential oils OK the shows include fitness effect on humans, antiseptic, bactericidal and fungicidal swistami, promote faster healing of wounds, stimulates the immune system, are excellent antioxidants, have analgesic effect.

The present invention is the creation of emulsions of perfluorocarbons, not only provides saturation of the skin with oxygen, but also eliminates the causes of violations of oxygen utilization integumentary tissues; increases the rate of its consumption in all layers of the epidermis, which leads to increased metabolism and regeneration of the skin and accelerates the synthesis of proteins, including collagen and elastin, and, ultimately, ensures the prevention of skin aging and removes its various physiological disorders.

The problem is solved due to the fact that the famous perfluorocarbon emulsion for cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations containing perfluorocarbons, water, an oil phase and an emulsifier, optionally contains an essential oil as a means of contributing to the utilization of oxygen by the skin.

The content of perfluorocarbons in the emulsion may range from 0.2 to 140% weight/volume, preferably 75 to 120% weight/volume, and ultimately it must be such to ensure that the concentration of the perfluorocarbon in the finished cosmetic and/or dermatological medium spans the ve-level from 5 to 30 weight/volume %. The content of oil phase in the emulsion can range 5-40 vol.% of the total volume of the emulsion, and the total content of essential oils in the emulsion is from about 0.001 to 3.5%. Preferably the inclusion of essential oils in the composition of the oil phase.

As essential oils can be used individually or complexes (preferably natural) essential oils, such as essential oils of lavender, lemon, bitter orange, cypress, rose, bergamot, eucalyptus, thyme, mint, coriander, chamomile, lemon balm, sage, rosemary and so on,

As the oil phase can be used natural oils, such as olive, soy, flower, etc. and/or plant nutrient oils of hazelnut, sunflower, jojoba, macadamia, rosehip, flax, black currant, etc. that are essential for the dissolution of essential oils.

As emulsifiers may be used any conventionally used in such cases the connection, but it is preferable to use proxanol is chosen, phospholipids or aqueous solutions of Pemoline, individual or combination of emulsifiers in concentrations of from 0.5% to 12%.

As perfluorocarbons can be used perftoran and cycloalkanes, perfluorinated amines and ethers, various buildings, bis(perfluoroalkyl)ethylene, performancebased, and mixtures thereof.

It should be noted that well-known source of information is AI (RF Patent 2143263, class a 61 K 9/10 from 1998), which contains the text mention of the fact that the oil phase of the emulsions of perfluorocarbons, which represents the oil extracts of plant material, may contain essential oils. However, they traditionally serve as extracts of plants and herbs, the only source of biologically active substances and it is for this purpose applied in known emulsion.

Thus, neither of the above sources, nor in any other known to the applicant not disclosed and are not described perfluorocarbon emulsion for cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations, optionally containing essential oils as a means of increasing the rate of oxygen consumption of the skin and promotes its disposal.

The applicant conducted research on the utilization of oxygen by the skin after application of the emulsion of a perfluorocarbon emulsions of perfluorocarbons containing various compositions of essential oils, by determining changes in transcutaneous oxygen tension (tc pO2after local application of these cosmetics. As control was used lecithin emulsion.

In the description and in the experiments of examples of the use of the composition of the following essential oils:

- Rosmarinus officinalis - EM rosemary

- Origanum heracleoticum - EM oregano

- Eugenia caryophyllus - EM is vasdeki

- Thymus vulgaris - EM thyme

- Origanum majorana - EM marjoram

- Curcuma zedoaria - EM turmeric and

- Oil rosemary extract (Helianthus annuus Seed Oil + Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract)

composition V of the following essential oils:

- Mentha arvensis - EM mint

- Citrus medica limonium - EM lemon

- Cupressus sempervirens - EM cypress

- Lavandula hybrida - EM lavender

- Cistus ladaniferus - EM incense

composition R of the following essential oils:

- Cinnamomum camphora - EM camphor

- Lavandula angustifolia - EM lavender

- Citrus reticulata - EM petitgrain

- Michelia alba - EM Magnolia

- Citrus aurantium - EM neroli

- Anthemis nobilis - EM chamomile

- Cananga odorata - EM ylang-ylang

the composition A1 of the following essential oils:

- Citrus bergamia - EM bergamot

- Menthe piperita - EM mint

- Citrus Limonium - EM lemon

- Lavandula officinalis - EM lavender

- Thymus vulgaris EM - thyme

- Eucaliyptus globulus - EM eucalyptus

and composition A4 of the following essential oils:

- Coriandrum sativum - EM coriander

- Salvia Sclarea - EM sage

- Melissa officinalis - EM Melissa

- Camomille romaine - EM chamomile

Were studied the following structures:

1. 10% perfluorocarbon emulsion + 1% composition on lecithin emulsion.

2. 10% perfluorocarbon emulsion + 1% composition V lecithin emulsion.

3. 10% perfluorocarbon emulsion + 1% composition A1 lecithin emulsion.

4. 10% perfluorocarbon emulsion + 1% composition A4 lecithin emulsion.

5. 10% emulsion is of afteroperation on lecithin emulsion.

6. Lecithin emulsion.

For the study were recruited 10 volunteers - healthy women aged 40 to 50 years. It should be noted that each of them had expressed in varying degrees (depending on the specific person and the selected point) disorders of energy metabolism of the skin due to impaired utilization of oxygen, so they have a lower (compared with young subjects) values of oxygen tension in the skin (to Rho2).

Measurement of oxygen tension was carried out using oxygenate SCI 4 ("Radiometer, Denmark). For analyses were selected 4 typical point corresponding to the most frequent application of cosmetics:

1. "Cheek" - corresponds to the middle of the cheeks.

2. "The forehead" - corresponds to the point in the fronto-temporal region of 5-6 cm from the midline, and 2.5-3 cm above the eyebrow.

3. "The girdle" is located at the intersection of srednechrochnoy line and the upper edge of the trapezius muscle.

4. "Neckline" is located on 5-6 cm below the clavicle on srednechrochnoy line.

After selecting the point of the study it was determined the source voltage of the oxygen by the standard method. Next to the square 10-11 mm2a thick layer is deposited studied composition and exhibited within 10 minutes. Then it remains completely removed marl the new tampon then at the same point re-measured voltage of the oxygen. Next, we calculated the rate of change of oxygen tension, expressed in percent of the original value. For example: the source voltage of the oxygen at the selected point was at the level of 40 mm Hg After application of the composition, it fell to 35 mm Hg as a result of calculations we get that decreased oxygen tension by 12%.

Similar actions were carried out simultaneously (using the second oxygen sensor) at the symmetric point. As reference compounds used lecithin emulsion.

We then conducted the calculation of average value changes of oxygen tension in the skin for each of the compositions (including changes in oxygen tension in the skin, called lecithin emulsion). Just made 240 dimensions 120 points.

Applications of perfluorocarbon emulsion was caused by the increase of oxygen tension in the skin in an average of 6.7 mm Hg or 14.3%, which indicates the saturation of the skin with oxygen (see figure 1).

Applications of perfluorocarbon emulsions with different essential oils have led to small changes in the measured characteristics of the oxygen tension (see table 1 and figure 2), due to the fact that essential oils help to improve the absorption of skin brought perfluorocarbons and oxygen, which leads to the decrease of its diffusion through the membrane of the sensor Clark and reduction of values to Rho2registered by the apparatus. However, regardless of the type used essential oils, each of them in varying degrees, contributed to the improvement of the absorption of oxygen by the skin, i.e. to improve its utilization.

To illustrate the conducted research shows characteristic curves of transcutaneous oxygen tension before and after application of various cosmetic products (see figure 3).

The results of the study indicate that applying to the skin emulsions of perfluorocarbons containing essential oils, leads to a small decrease in tc pO2, while the applique one emulsions of perfluorocarbons in the reference point causes a significant increase in oxygen tension, which once again confirms the presence of a perfluorocarbon emulsion, containing essential oils, a new quality - while transport more oxygen to the skin - strengthening its utilization by skin cells that leads to activation of the metabolism and regeneration of the skin and accelerates the synthesis of proteins, including collagen and elastin, and ultimately ensures the prevention of skin aging and fixes various physiological disorders skin.

The perfluorocarbon emulsion according to the present from which retenu prepared as follows:

Mix perfluorocarbons (or a mixture of perfluorocarbons) and water, adding a solution of the emulsifier. The mixture is intensively stirred in ultrameal. The resulting mass is homogenized at high pressure. Separately prepare an oil phase, is combined with the mixture, add the preservative, for example, Germaben, in the amount of 0.8-1.0%, and again homogenized. After obtaining a homogeneous mass it is cooled to 40-45°With enter the essential oil and additionally stirred.

The following example serves only to illustrate the invention without limiting it in spirit.

Example.

Separately prepare the oil phase by mixing 8.6 kg isopropyl myristate; 8,0 kg of paraffin oil; 7,0 kg Polawax 200 GP; 8,0 kg glyceryl of monostearate SE; 10,0 kg PEG-7 glyceryl of Cocoate; then heat the mixture in a melting pot to 65-70°and mix until smooth. Add 20 kg pre-cooked mixture of perfluorocarbons (containing PERFLUORO decalin and parfocality P-216), 9,0 kg of glycerin, 2.0 kg of Germaben, the required amount of filtered water and homogenize the mixture. The obtained homogeneous mass is then cooled to 40-45°With injected 2.0 kg of essential oils and additionally stirred.

As the composition of essential oils using essential oils of neroli, petitgrain, Magnolia, ylang-ylang and get the night cream for who is astoi skin, has soothing and antiseptic action. The cream nourishes the skin with oxygen and, due to the presence of essential oils, provides an intensive absorption of his skin. Increases skin elasticity and strengthens capillary walls, the metabolism is increased cellular nutrition and respiration. The cream is especially recommended for dull and tired skin.

1. The perfluorocarbon emulsion for cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations containing perfluorocarbons, water, an oil phase and an emulsifier, characterized in that it further contains an essential oil as a means of contributing to the utilization of oxygen by the skin.

2. The perfluorocarbon emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the essential oil is included in the oil phase.

3. The perfluorocarbon emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains individual essential oils and/or composition.

4. The perfluorocarbon emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the content of essential oils in it is from 0.001 to 3.5%.



 

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