Method for preparing biologically active base for cosmetic agents

FIELD: cosmetic industry, cosmetics.

SUBSTANCE: invention relates to a method for preparing a base for cosmetic agents used in skin care. Method for preparing biologically active base for cosmetic agents comprises fermentation of cultures of strains lactobacilli and bifidobacteria in hydrolyzate-milk medium containing lactulose. The ferment of lactobacilli and bifidobacteria in the amount 3-5% of nutrient medium volume is plated and fermented for 6-8 x up to formation of suspension with acidity value = 70°-100° and with titer value 1010 CFU followed by its heating at temperature 80-85°C for 10-15 min and cooling. The content of lactulose in medium is 1.5-2 wt.-%. The base prepared by proposed method provides reducing loss of biologically active substances to minimal value and allows conferring to the base high nutrient activity and producing regenerating, softening, bactericidal and anti-inflammatory effects on skin.

EFFECT: improved preparing method, improved and valuable medicinal and cosmetic properties of base.

2 cl, 1 tbl, 4 ex

 

The invention relates to the cosmetic industry and can be used as a universal basis for any remedy for skin care: creams, cosmetic creams, gel, balm, lotion.

Ensuring proper skin care, which is the main physiological barrier of the body from the adverse effects of the environment largely determines the normal functioning of the organism as a whole. The main task of the modern cosmetic skin care is to create compositions that allow the skin to best fulfill their functions and primarily protective. Due to the increasing in the last decade, the deterioration of the ecological situation of particular urgency is the development of cosmetic products, allowing you to save and maintain high functional capacity of the skin.

From the patent literature known method of obtaining biologically active substances (BAS)used in cosmetics (the Federal Republic of Germany patent No. 3016141, class a 61 K 7/48, publ. 14.10.82). The method includes the simultaneous holding of lactic acid fermentation of skim milk using bacteria of lactic fermentation and destruction of casein by proteases at 35-40°C for 12-48 hours the mixture is Then heated for 30 minutes to 75°, separated solids, and the pH of the resulting filtrate generic is it up to 6,0-6,1.

The disadvantage of this method is that as the environment of the cultivation in the preparation of BAS use milk, which after fermentation and heating forms solid particles of a substance (casein). These particles of casein is removed by centrifugation or filtration, which complicates the process of obtaining biologically active substances for cosmetic purposes. When this happens, you lose a certain amount of BAS. In addition, substances obtained by using these strains of bacteria to lactic acid fermentation, have little nutritional value and regenerating the skin's ability.

As a prototype of the invention taken way obtaining cosmetic preparations for skin care, which includes the preparation of a basis in the form of a gel and preparation of biologically active components by cultivation of bifidobacteria in the corn-lactose medium, and inaktivera these bacteria and mixing basics with biologically active components obtained (patent RF №2088211, class a 61 K 7/42, 1994).

The disadvantage of this method is the complexity of the preparation of media for culturing, duration of cultivation (24-32 hours), introduction to the composition of the medium milk sugar (lactose), which is not fully utilized by the bacteria, the inconvenience of inaktivirovanie biomass in the autoclave when sterility.

It is known that Bo is isinto cosmetic products do not have the versatility in terms of use in individuals with different skin types, and their allergenic properties. Object of the invention is the creation of biologically active basis to obtain any cosmetic products (cream, balm, lotion, cream)that would enhance the protective properties of cosmetic products associated with direct antimicrobial activity included in the framework of substances, increased nutritional activity of cosmetic products and contributed to the restoration of damaged skin cells.

The implementation of the tasks is due to the fact that sourdough lactobacilli and bifidobacteria 3-5% of the volume of the nutrient medium make hydrolization environment and cultured in a bioreactor, for 6-8 hours prior to the formation of a suspension having a pH equal to 70°-100°T with title 109SOME, then, it is heated at a temperature of 80°-85°C for 10-15 minutes, cooled, and the content of lactulose in hydrolization environment is 1.5-2 wt.%. The process of fermentation is carried out at the following ratio, wt.%:

Hydrolyzed milk43,8 up 44.2
L-cysteine hydrochloric acid1,8-2,2
KN2RHO4or NaClrespectively
(0,031-0,035)-(0,38-,42)
0,8-0,95
WaterRest

Use as the basis for the preparation of cosmetic products resulting suspension of inactivated lactobacilli and bifidobacteria, as well as their life together with the residual components of the environment, allows you to get funds with high nutritive and protective activity.

The main feature of biologically active basics is a protective effect associated with direct antimicrobial activity included in the framework of substances. Antimicrobial activity associated with lactic acid and other organic acids, as well as the antibiotic substance lysozyme, Lectionary and bacteriocins, which are products of the metabolism of lactic acid bacteria. Acid reaction on the skin surface, the so-called acid mantle, prevents the development of pyogenic bacteria - staphyloccocus, Streptococcus and other pathogens infectious processes and medicine. Lactic acid produced by lactobacilli in the process of their cultivation, ranges from 0.5 to 0.8% of all organic acids bases. Experimentally proved, that the addition of 0.05% lactic acid to bacterial suspensions leads to inhibition of growth of pathogenic bacteria. The base composition is Phi is Biologicheskie complementary components of the skin and contains substances that involved in the implementation of protective, excretory, respiratory and gas exchange function of any skin types. Organic fatty acids, proteins (peptides), essential amino acids contained in the Basis when applied to the skin surface as part of any cosmetic products create a protective film, which in addition to the pronounced protective effect gives elasticity limits the evaporation of moisture from the skin, thereby preventing it from drying out, leaving it soft and supple.

In addition, the acid reaction of the Framework supports the skin's ability to cleanse itself.

The proposed basis for the cosmetic contains a large number of biologically active substances on the effects on the skin - vitamins, enzymes, amino acids, organic acids, essential amino acids. These substances are of natural origin and constitute the essence of the basics, as produced by the lactobacilli and bifidobacteria in the process of growth in a nutrient medium. It distinguishes the proposed remedy available, produced by a simple mixing and combining elemental composition of substances, often synthetic origin.

Vitamin composition Framework presented in vitamin C and b vitamins (B2 - Riboflavin, B5 - Pantothenic acid, B6 - pyrid the Xin, 12 - ciankobalamin Niacin). Known the importance of these vitamins for good physiological activity (ability) of the skin. B vitamins are involved in cell metabolism, a number of biochemical processes in the formation of keratin and melanin, increase the resistance of blood and lymphatic vessels, protect the sebaceous glands from the onset of atrophy. Lack of vitamins of this group leads to the formation of cracks and other skin damage, and can also lead to the development of diseases such as dermatitis and eczema.

Vitamin C regulates oxidative processes in tissues and the metabolism of carbohydrates, exhibits anti-inflammatory and antiallergic effect, activates the immune system. It is required for collagen synthesis. The lack of vitamin C leads to dryness, roughness and pallor of the skin, reduces the protective forces.

Another important feature of the Framework is the presence in its composition of lactulose (galactosyl-fructose), a component of 1.5-2.0% by weight of dry residue. This biologically active substance provides long-lasting skin protection from pathogenic bacteria, and also gives extra moisturizing effect.

Impact on other protective mechanisms is present in the Base components resemble teichoic acids and composition, including muramyldipeptide cleto is different walls of lactobacilli and bifidobacteria. These biologically highly active substances are known polyclonal inductors and Immunostimulants, causing adjuvant effect that activates phagocytic and enzymatic activity.

Specially developed technology fermenting strains of producers ensures to minimize the loss of biologically active substances, which are metabolites of lactobacilli and bifidobacteria nutrizionali components of the environment of cultivation.

Thus, the proposed Framework shows a complex effect: a pronounced protective effect (bactericidal and anti-inflammatory properties, immunostimulatory effects); nourishing and moisturizing action; regenerating and cleansing effect.

Biologically active basis obtained as follows.

First, cook hydrolization environment: mixed hydrolyzed milk with water and injected pre-dissolved in water lactulose 1.5-2 wt.%, L-cysteine hydrochloric acid, NaCl or KN2RHO4and agar-agar in a quantitative ratio, wt.%:

Hydrolyzed milk43,8 up 44.2
L-cysteine hydrochloric acid1,8-2,2
KN2RHO4or NaClrespectively (0,031-
0,035)-(0,38-0,42)
Agar-agar0,8-0,85
Lactulose1,5-2,0
WaterRest

Sourdough lactobacilli and bifidobacteria 3-5% of the volume of the nutrient medium sow and fermented in hydrolization environment in the bioreactor for 6-8 hours prior to the formation of a suspension having a pH equal to 70°-100°T with title 109SOME. Inactivate in the bioreactor by heating at a temperature of 80°-85°C for 10-15 minutes, then cooled. The obtained culture liquid is biologically active base for cosmetics sterile packaged in vials. Storage is provided by the tightness of the packing. Per liter of culture medium contains the following components ml/l:

0,2-0,5
Peptidoglycan1,5-1,8
The resemble teichoic acid1,6-2,8
Polysaccharides, including muramyldipeptide4,8 -8,8
Lactulose1,5-2,0
Fatty acids, % of dry residue:
- Milk0,5-0,8
- Acetic0,2-0,4
- Propionic0,3-0,5
- Aminobutyric
Amino acids:

Tryptophan, Cysteine, Lysine, Glutamine, Leucine, Methionine, Isoleucin, Penicillin
15,3-18,4
Vitamins (mg/100 g: B2, B5, B6, B12, PP0,75-1,28
2,30-4,70
Trace elements, % of dry residue: P, CA, Na, Mg, K, Fe, S,2-14
CA12-130 mg/100 g
P95-105 mg/100 g
Enzymes, % of dry residue: Lactase, Amylase, Lipase, Protease0,4-0,9
Lysozyme0,20-0,84
Bacteriocins:0,10-0,58

On the basis of biologically active basis in a production environment can be obtained from different on purpose cosmetics: creams, lotions, or balms, cosmetic cream.

Examples of specific formulations of cosmetic products for skin below.

Example 1.

Cream with 12% content of biologically active principles:

a) Alcohol ester of citric acid5%
Vegetable oil10%
White petrolatum15%
Preservative toolEnough
b) the Biological is active ski base 70%

Preparation of cosmetics is made as follows: melt ingredients subgroup a) by heating to a temperature of 70°C. In the resulting melt gradually add the ingredient subgroup b), preheated to a temperature of 70°C. Is stirring the mixture until a temperature of 35°C. Example 2 Lotion with biologically active basis:

a) Ethanol 96%15,0%
b) Citric acid0,3%
1,2-Propylene glycol3,0%
Biologically active base81,7%

Making lotion is as follows: ingredients subgroup b) is the solution. Then add components subgroup a)

Example 3.

Gel-mask with biologically active basis:

This cosmetic gel mask provides high cosmetic effect (nourishing, regenerating, protective) when using cheap raw materials for its production in the following ratio, wt.%:

The complex of active ingredient10-50
Polymeric thickener (Carbopol) 0.3 to 1.0
Preservativeof 0.2-0.4
Waterrest

Example 4.

Cream-balm

Olive or soybean oil contains triglycerides, lecithin, linoleic acid. The composition is very close to the fat component of the hydro-lipid mantle of epidermal.

Lanolin is purified fat of sheep's wool, lubricates and eliminates peeling and easily penetrates the skin

Oil- 60%
Lanolin- 10%
Biologically-active basis- 30%

Because cosmetics on biologically active basis differ from the foregoing water-based, were collected from two groups of subjects: a group of twenty women used a similar formula is water-based and 30 women from 30 to 60 years old with oily, dry and normal skin used above means.

Daily observation showed that the use of the above funds effectively protects skin from harmful environment and provides for the release of the skin from conditionally pathogenic flora. Allergic reactions in the second group of subjects was not observed. Absorption is good, because of increased lymph and blood circulation turgor of the skin increased the 60% of women. 40% of women were observed wrinkles, all the subjects from the second group improved complexion, the skin has acquired a fresh look. Daily, long-term, up to three weeks for the application of cosmetics biologically active basis did the skin smooth, elastic and stretchy 80% of women. Regenerating effect on the skin due to exfoliate old skin and new epithelium in 50% of women. In the first group of subjects phenomena of regeneration was absent. Cosmetic products, prepared on biologically active basis, representing a complex in which the active beginning are not only the microbial cells and their producers, in particular vitamins, amino acids, enzymes and antibiotic like substances, its effect is several times greater than existing masks and creams based on vegetable raw materials, dairy products and bee products.

1. The method of obtaining biologically active bases for cosmetics, comprising fermenting cultures of strains of lactobacilli and bifidobacteria in hydrolization medium containing lactulose, characterized in that lactobacilli and bifidobacteria 3-5% of the volume of the nutrient medium sow and fermented in hydrolization environment bioreactor for 6-8 h before about the education of the suspension with acidity, equal 70-100° title 1010SOME, then, it is heated at a temperature of 80-85°C for 10-15 min, cooled, and the content of lactulose in hydrolization environment is 1.5-2 wt.%.

2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the process of fermentation is carried out in hydrolization environment in the following ratio of components, wt.%:

Hydrolyzed milk43,8 up 44.2
L-cysteine hydrochloric acid1,8-2,2
KH2PO4or NaCl
respectively(0,031-0,035)-(0,38-0,42)
Agar - agar0,8-0,95
Purified waterThe rest of it.



 

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