Cream for facial skin

IPC classes for russian patent Cream for facial skin (RU 2246933):

A61K7/48 -

A61K7 -

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FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: the suggested facial cream contains acetylated lanolin, olive oil, cacao oil, ethanol, glycerol, honey, germaben, triethanolamine, flavoring, bee wax, zinc stearate, stearin, methylcellulose, albumin fraction of caprine milk whey, fucoidan hydrolyzate, distilled water. Components should be taken at certain quantitative content. Cream favors wounds healing, improves metabolic processes in skin cells and prevents skin aging and its dryness and desquamation, as well.

EFFECT: higher efficiency.

1 cl, 3 ex, 1 tbl

The invention relates to the cosmetic industry and is intended to generate a nourishing cream for the face.

A method of obtaining nutrient cream (patent RU 2150935 C1, 22.06.1999), which uses the whey proteins. The disadvantage is the technical complexity of the process. A known method of producing cream (patent RU 2161951 C2, 19.01.1999), which uses goat milk. The disadvantage is the use of some expensive components.

Closest to the proposed to the technical essence and the achieved positive effect is the method of production of cream for skin (patent SU 1242190 A1, 17.02.1984), which contains condensed fermented whey. The disadvantage is that the resulting system does not have an antioxidant effect. The lack of cream contained in the patent SU 1503817 A1, 31.07.1985, is that the use of salt from kelp, do not provide wound-healing effect.

The purpose of the invention is to develop a method of producing a multifunctional nutrient cream, stable during storage, providing a protective antioxidant effect using albumen fraction of the whey of goat's milk and promotes healing of small wounds, improve metabolic processes in skin cells, preventing the aging of skin is on the cover due to the introduction of hydrolyzed fucoidan.

For this purpose, the proposed method of producing cream, providing use as a polymeric thickener methylcellulose, as preservative use alcohol, germaben, as a wound healing agent is hydrolyzed fucoidan extracted from brown seaweed Fucus vesiculosus, as a softening agent is glycerin, stearin, and zinc stearate as a means of activating blood circulation, honey, as emulsifying agents triethanolamine, as the amendment is used bees wax, acetylated lanolin and cocoa butter, as a means of providing a moisturizing effect - olive oil, as the basis of water, as biologically active products, providing a protective, restorative and antioxidant effect, albumen fraction of serum goat's milk to make the cream a pleasant smell in the formulation introduced flavoring. In cosmetic tool components introduced in the following ratio, wt.%:

Albumen fraction of the whey of goat's milk 20,0-30,0

Acetylated lanolin 1,0-3,0

Germaben 0,5-0,7

Hydrolyzed fucoidan 10,0-14,0

Glycerin 3,0-5,0

Cocoa butter 2,0-4,0

Olive oil 8,0-10,0

Honey 3,0-5,0

The methylcellulose 3,0-5,0

Odorant 0,8-1,0

Beeswax 1,0-2,0

Ethyl alcohol 0,8-1,0

Stearin 2,0-4,0

Tree anelmin 2,0-3,0

Zinc stearate 1,0-3,0

Distilled water to 100.0

The method of producing cream is as follows.

To highlight serum albumin goat milk conduct fractionation of proteins using methyl cellulose and ammonium sulfate. Methylcellulose is brought into a warm water with a temperature of 50-60°to obtain a 3-5% solution. The mixture was incubated for 1.5-2 hours. Temperature due to the following restrictions. At temperatures below 50°and above 60°With the process of gelation is longer.

The obtained colloidal gel methylcellulose contribute in pre-homogenized and heated for better separation of goat milk to a temperature of 40-45°With, in the ratio of 1:1 by weight, followed by a gradual cooling for 2-3 hours to a temperature of 10-15°and the temperature at 10-15°C for 8-10 hours.

When making a solution of methylcellulose in a smaller number is not complete precipitation of casein, with the increase of the mass fraction of the solution of methylcellulose output casein remains unchanged, and the flow of components increases. Separation of protein and polysaccharide at a temperature below 10°and above 15°is slower.

This method of concentration of proteins based on two physico-chemical phenomena: limited thermodynamic compatibility of proteins and polysaccharides in the de, as well as a higher osmotic pressure of a solution of a polysaccharide in comparison with the osmotic pressure of a solution of protein. Mixing solutions of protein and polysaccharide in certain concentrations leads to the formation of two-phase systems: the lower phase - concentrate casein, top - polysaccharide phase. Through the interface is the transfer of water from the protein solution into the solution of the polysaccharide to establish the phase equilibrium, which determines the concentration of casein.

The bottom layer containing the casein is separated in a flow tank. And whey proteins with methylcellulose after separation is subjected to heating to a temperature of 55-60°C. At these temperatures the methylcellulose coagulates, and whey proteins do not undergo denaturation. Clot methylcellulose decanted after cooling again used for the fractionation of milk. To serum proteins add a saturated solution of ammonium sulfate at room temperature in the ratio of 1:1 by weight, when this occurs the precipitation of globulin proteins that are separated by filtration. Remaining in a solution of serum albumin goat's milk is subjected to dialysis against distilled water during the day and thicken.

The hydrolysis of fucoidan from brown algae Fucus vesiculosus. To obtain hydrolyzed fucoidan 10 g tone is about shredded seaweed Fucus vesiculosis is subjected to extraction system of extractants: 1 g potassium phosphate, 1.3 g of sodium pyrophosphate and 0.3 g of sodium hydroxide in 50 ml of water. The mixture is stirred for 3-4 hours at a temperature of 60°C. Pasty mass is diluted four-fold amount of water and filtered. Make 50 ml of 2 M aqueous solution of calcium chloride. This fucoidan is transformed into a soluble calcium salt, and alginic acid remains in the form of insoluble calcium alginate, detachable centrifuge separation. The solution of the calcium salt of fucoidan deleteroute against distilled water for 24 hours

To make the cream a pleasant smell in the recipe entered the perfume with the scent of milk and honey. Introduction odorants low (0.8) and higher (1,0) does not create a favourable smell, which is reflected in the consumer characteristics and product qualities of the cream.

As a preservative is used, germaben (0.5 to 0.7), alcohol (0.8 to 1.0), the introduction of germaben less than the lower limit does not provide a conservation actions, and the introduction above is not optimal for the skin.

As the emulsifier used is triethanolamine. Its inclusion in the formulation is less than the lower limit (2,0) does not create a stable emulsion when introduced above the upper limit (3,0) slows down the process of emulsification.

As a softening agent used stearin (2,0-4,0) and zinc stearate (1,0-3,0), providing data limit is optimal impact.

Introduction acetylated lanolin (1,0-3,0), beeswax (1.0 to 2.0), cocoa butter (2,0-4,0) as the amendment is less than the lower limit leads to a liquid consistency of cream, and maintain higher upper limits creates a rigid structure of cream.

With the introduction below the lower limit of olive oil (8,0-10,0) and glycerol (3,0-5,0) not manifest total optimum performance characteristics of the object, and the introduction above the upper limit of apparent excessive unilateral action.

As a polymeric thickener used methylcellulose, giving cream extra stability and softness.

As a means of activating blood circulation, used honey, providing antiseptic and regenerating effect, increases the protective functions of the epidermis.

The finished product is a dense homogeneous mass of a light beige color, which is packaged in sterile packaging.

This method of producing cream is illustrated by examples of its manufacture.

Example 1. Pre-allocate albumen fraction of the whey of goat's milk and cook hydrolyzed fucoidan.

The process of making cream spend enameled tank with a steam jacket and a stirrer.

In the capacity of the load water, hydrolyzed fucoidan, glycerol and heated to 70-75°and when paramasivan who gradually add the triethanolamine for 25-30 minutes.

The second enamel container with a steam jacket and a stirrer download olive oil, acetylated lanolin, cocoa butter, bees wax, stearin, zinc stearate and heated to 80-85°C, melting with continuous stirring. Pumped into the first boiler and emuleret for 10-15 minutes.

The temperature was lowered to 58-60°download honey, germaben in ethyl alcohol and perfume, emuleret in 3-5 minutes.

Cool to 45-50°and enter the albumen fraction of the whey of goat's milk and emuleret again for 3-5 minutes.

The finished emulsion is served in an enamel pot for cooling with a refrigerator and a stirrer. Mix the mass of 25-30 minutes and cooled to a temperature of 25-30°C.

After this cream stand 24 hours and serves on packing.

The components introduced in the ratio, wt.%:

Acetylated lanolin 1,0

Olive oil 9,0

Cocoa butter 4,0

Ethyl alcohol 0,9

Glycerin 4,0

Honey 4,0

Germaben 0,5

Triethanolamine 2,0

Odorant 0,8

Beeswax 1,0

Zinc stearate 2,0

Stearin 2,0

The methylcellulose 4,0

Albumen fraction serum

goat's milk 20,0

Hydrolyzed fucoidan 14,0

Distilled water up to 100

Example 2. Carried out as in example 1, except that the specified components are taken in the following ratio, wt.%:/p>

Acetylated lanolin 2,0

Olive oil 10,0

Cocoa butter 3,0

Ethyl alcohol 0,8

Glycerin 3,0

Honey 5,0

Germaben 0,6

Triethanolamine 2,5

Odorant 0,9

Beeswax 1,5

Zinc stearate 3,0

Stearin 3,0

The methylcellulose 3,0

Albumen fraction serum

goat's milk 25,0

Hydrolyzed fucoidan 12,0

Distilled water up to 100

Example 3. Carried out as in example 1, except that the specified components are taken in the following ratio, wt.%:

Acetylated lanolin 3,0

Olive oil 8,0

Cocoa butter 2,0

Ethyl alcohol 1,0

Glycerin 5,0

Honey 3,0

Germaben 0,7

Triethanolamine 3,0

Odorant 1,0

Beeswax 2,0

Zinc stearate 1,0

Stearin 4,0

The methylcellulose 5,0

Albumen fraction serum

goat's milk 30,0

Hydrolyzed fucoidan 10,0

Distilled water up to 100

Clinical trials of funds for volunteers aged 18-30 years show that the cream is effective, well tolerated, safe, does not cause allergic reactions.

The composition of the cream, the examples presented in the table.


The cream composition	Examples
1	2	3
Acetylated lanolin	1,0	2,0	3,0
Olive oil	9,0	10,0	8,0
Cocoa butter	4,0	3,0	2,0
Ethyl alcohol	0,9	0,8	1,0
Glycerin	4,0	3,0	5,0
Honey	4,0	5,0	3,0
Germaben	0,5	0,6	0,7
Greenalien	2,0	2,5	3,0
Perfume	0,8	0,9	1,0
Beeswax	1,0	1,5	2,0
Zinc stearate	2,0	3,0	1,0
Stearin	2,0	3,0	4,0
The methylcellulose	4,0	3,0	5,0
Albumen fraction of serum goat milk	20,0	25,0	30,0
Hydrolyzed fucoidan	14,0	to 12.0	10,0
Distilled water	100	100		100

1. Cream for the face, containing a softening agent, amendment, emulsifier, biologically active agent, a preservative, a perfume, characterized in that it further contains a thickener - 3-5%solution of methylcellulose in water, wound healing agent is hydrolyzed fucoidan extracted from brown seaweed Fucus vesiculosus, the tool activates the blood circulation and metabolism - honey moisturizer - olive oil, ethyl alcohol, zinc stearate, water, as a softening agent use glycerin stearate, amendment - bee wax, acetylated lanolin and cocoa butter, emulsifier - triethanolamine, preservative - Germain, and as biologically active funds - albumen fraction of the whey of goat's milk in the following components in wt %:

Albumen fraction serum

goat's milk 20,0-30,0

Acetylated lanolin 1,0-3,0

Germaben 0,5-0,7

Hydrolyzed fucoidan 10,0-14,0

Glycerin 3,0-5,0

Cocoa butter 2,0-4,0

Olive oil 8,0-10,0

Honey 3,0-5,0

The methylcellulose 3,0-5,0

Odorant 0,8-1,0

Beeswax 1,0-2,0

Ethyl alcohol 0,8-1,0

Stearin 2,0-4,0

Triethanolamine 2.0 to 3.0

Zinc stearate 1,0-3,0

Distilled water To 100.0

2. The cream according to claim 1, characterized in that as a means to give the cream a pleasant odor using a perfume with the scent of milk and honey.