The method of obtaining emulsion cosmetics

 

(57) Abstract:

The invention relates to the field of cosmetology and relates to a technology for cosmetic skin care. The method of obtaining cosmetic products includes dispersion in pharmaceutical solvent at room temperature components, and the components are administered simultaneously or sequentially through individual dispensers in rotary cavitation, which produces a dispersion of the components and cavitation homogenization of the emulsion, followed by filling, with the input components of the dosing is carried out directly at the camera sound in the process of going through her complex Myrrh and water solution, with pre-or in the process of dispersion in the camera serves at least one gelling agent and/or thickener to 5% calculated on the total weight and solid powdered ingredient sorbent or abrasive, and the finished product after 2.5-4 minutes served in packing containers through the camera sound. The method allows to obtain the finest monodisperse creamy emulsion with submicron size particles capable of penetrating deep into the skin and provide on the AI and can be used in biology, pharmacology, cosmetics industry, veterinary and food industry, in particular in cosmetics with the development of technology for production of cosmetic products for skin, nails and hair.

Biologically active substances included in the cosmetic and medical devices, have the most effective action only when the penetration into the deeper layers of the skin. So urgent is the problem of effective transdermal transport them nutrients and bioactive components. One of the most effective ways to increase the effectiveness of a cosmetic or dermatological is the inclusion of active ingredients in the emulsion and/or vesicular particles of submicron size.

Preparations based emulsion particles, vesicles, liposomes appeared relatively recently and in a short time became widespread, first in medicine and then in cosmetics. The idea of using liposomes for targeted transfer of biologically active substances (BAS) has been widely used all over the world. Vesicles are generic containers for simultaneous transport of lipophilic and hydrophilic skin.

The most widely emulsion forms of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. Together with globules of the emulsion oil-in-water” biologically active ingredients can penetrate through the layers of the epidermis dissolved in the oil phase of the emulsion, adsorbed at the interface, solubilisation in micelles of surface-active substances (surfactants).

A method of obtaining cosmetic products, including the production of emulsions by temperature effects (80 to 85°C) homogenizing the mixture of low-melting fractions chicken oil, lanolin stearate and PEG-400 with water for 15-20 minutes. The emulsion is cooled to 50-55°C and mixed with biologically active substances, such as oil extract Rowan and cranberry, mineral-vitamin concentrate, kelp, followed by cooling the mixture to a temperature of 20-25°C and ripening of cream for 20-24 hours.with. THE USSR № 1832026, MKI A 61 K 7/48, 1993).

The disadvantage of this method is the considerable energy technologies for the cream and reduce the biological activity of its components in the preparation of the product due to the fact that the process of obtaining the emulsion is accomplished by heating the hours.

There is also known a method of obtaining a liposomal composition comprising mixing components of the liposomal membrane with non-volatile water-soluble physiologically acceptable organic solvent and dispersing the resulting mixture in an aqueous medium using conventional agitators (European patent No. 0130577, MKI7A 61 K 9/50, 1989).

The resulting liposomes are of relatively large size to 2500 nm, which is the main disadvantage of this method.

A method of obtaining cosmetic products for skin care.with. The USSR № 1597192, MKI a 61 K 7/00, 1990), including the production base in the form of an emulsion by temperature effects 70-80°C and homogenization of the mixture of corn oil, lanolin, glycerol and monoglycerides with water for 30-45 minutes. The emulsion is cooled to 45°C and mixed with biologically active substances, such as fruit extracts of chestnut, hladikova and oil extracts of pollen and oil extract of hawthorn fruit. Then cool the mixture to a temperature of 45°C and put the odorant with the subsequent packing of cream.

The disadvantages of this method are the high intensity process the Polybios, the process of obtaining the emulsion is performed depending on the temperature of about 80°C and homogenization framework and biologically active substances at a temperature of 45°C for several hours.

The closest in technical essence of the present invention is a method for cosmetic products in the form of an emulsion, comprising preparing a base by dispersion of vegetable oil, emulsifier and glycerol in the dispersion medium, followed by the introduction in the resulting emulsion in the mixing process of biologically active substances of plant and animal origin. As the emulsifier used gel of polyethylene oxide, and the dispersion was performed at room temperature (patent RF № 2126247, MKI7A 61 K 9/10, 7/48, publ. 2001).

The disadvantage of the prototype is that the intensification of the processes of dilution and dispersion, as well as to obtain a fine emulsion and suspension capacity is additionally equipped with high-speed mixers. Also the disadvantages of this method are relative duration (over 1 hour) process and the impossibility of carrying out the process of homogenization (cold emulsification) when odnovremenno particles.

The task of the invention is the production of environmentally friendly high efficient emulsion cosmetic and/or medical devices with maximum preservation of valuable properties introduced into the emulsion thermolabile substances targeted (vitamins, lipids, polysaccharides, and so on) from raw materials of vegetable and biotechnological origin, sea products, metabolites of bifidobacteria by cold emulsification, as well as shortening the time and reducing energy costs for the production of cosmetic products.

In use of the present invention can receive the finest monodisperse creamy emulsion with submicron size particles capable of penetrating deep into the skin and have an effect at the cellular level, as well as building high-performance, automated technology for emulsion while mixing the fat and water phases with biologically active substances at room temperature.

The technical result consists in the fact that the proposed method of producing emulsion cosmetic and/or medical devices may be the basis of UNIFIL the result is achieved by a method for obtaining emulsion cosmetic products, comprising a dispersion in a pharmaceutically acceptable solvent at room temperature oil-soluble components, at least, vegetable oil, emulsifier and biologically active substances of plant and marine origin with subsequent filling, each one of these components is administered simultaneously or sequentially through individual dispensers in rotary cavitation installation with powerful sonar effects, which produce a dispersion of the components and cavitation homogenization of the emulsion with the prior or simultaneous submission of pharmaceutically acceptable solvent.

As the emulsifier used for emulsion complex Mirra No. 1” or “Myrrh No. 2”, or “Myrrh No. 3” - independent ingredients with the sanitary-epidemiological conclusion of the State sanitary-epidemiological service of the Russian Federation on compliance with the state rules and regulations and the Certificate of conformity of Gosstandart of the Russian Federation.

Emulsion complexes “Mirra” before entering into the rotary cavitation installation is made according to the method of cavitation emulsii with the same particle size.

Simultaneously with the above components is introduced into the emulsion, at least one gelling agent and/or thickener directly in the process of cavitation homogenization and at least one insoluble phase emulsion solid powdered ingredient - sorbent or abrasive to achieve the required consumer properties of the finished product.

This ensures the preservation of biological activity of natural ingredients, cosmetic product is obtained in the form of a submicron emulsion, and ecological purity of its components.

The essence of the invention is to use the principle of cavitation homogenization (emulsification) to obtain high-performance organic cosmetic and cosmetic emulsion of the funds.

Rotary cavitation installation is a simple and robust design, which blends the powerful generator of hydro-acoustic oscillations (total sound pressure level in the cavity of the camera sound 150-200 dB), the effective mixer-homogenizer and high-performance pump (water capacity up to 25 m3/h).

The proposed method allows to obtain a cosmetic product in the form of an emulsion with any fat (oil) phase, in the form of an anhydrous emulsion compositions with any acceptable external phase (for example, alcohol or glycerin), in the form of liquid or highly viscous emulsions of any kind (water/oil or oil/water).

The proposed method allows you to enter in the emulsion, at least one gelling agent and/or thickener (up to 5%, based on total weight) directly in the process of cavitation homogenization to achieve the desired organoleptic and/or physico-chemical properties of the finished product.

The proposed method allows you to enter in the emulsion, at least one insoluble phase emulsion solid powdered ingredient (e.g., sorbent or abrasive) for DOS the person received cosmetics which as an emulsifier containing emulsion complexes MIRRA NO. 1”, “MIRRA NO. 2”, “MIRRA NO. 3”, “MIRRA No. 4” and “MYRRH NO. N” for cosmetic products manufactured by CJSC “MIRRA-M - independent ingredients with the sanitary-epidemiological conclusion of the State sanitary-epidemiological service of the Russian Federation on compliance with the state rules and regulations and the Certificate of conformity of Gosstandart of the Russian Federation. Emulsion complexes “Mirra” manufactured by using a method of cavitational emulsification. One of the options includes the following ingredients, at least, grape, coconut oil, distilled monoglycerides, glycerol and distilled wax emulsion.

In another embodiment, a cosmetic product contains in the emulsion composition of the complex, at least, soybean oil, beeswax, stearate PEG and stearin. As the pharmaceutically acceptable solvent cosmetic product contains 2-10% ethyl alcohol, glycerin distilled or distilled water.

Emulsion medium may contain any additive usually used in cosmetics or pharmaceuticals, such as antioxidants, Kras is iskusstvennogo tan, agents gelling and thickening agent, sorbent, solar filters, etc., These additives may be present in the composition 0-10 wt.% calculated on the total mass.

For emulsion as the vegetable oil used oil coconut, palm, grape, soybean, sunflower, olive, castor, apricot, jojoba, sesame, nutmeg oil of roses, Alexandrian Laurel, milk Thistle or a mixture of these oils. As the essential oils used oils of geranium, monarda fistular, orange, peppermint, lavender, myrrh, ylang-ylang, rosemary, tea tree, clove, lemon, Basil, bergamot, cypress, sandalwood, patchouli, frankincense, Jasmine, or a mixture of these oils. As biologically active extracts used are water, water-alcohol, water-alcohol-glycerol, carbon dioxide and oil extracts and/or the juices of plants.

Effect of the acoustic oscillations in the process of homogenization are formed monodisperse emulsion particles of submicron size, which leads to qualitatively new results regarding the effectiveness of the obtained cosmetic products.

Biologically active substances present in receptozine oxidation (antioxidant effect), fill fat loss when washing, adverse atmospheric influences, and also have a mild deodorizing, antiseptic and promote fast healing of minor injuries.

Example 1. Cream-balm for dry skin “Sargassum”

Composition, wt.%:

Emulsion complex Mirra No. 2 70,0

Laminaria extract 4,5

Olive oil 4,0

Milk Thistle oil 2,0

Aloe 2,0

Fucus extract 1,5

Extract of clover 1,2

Extract of alfalfa 1,2

Basil essential oil 0,2

Essential oil of bergamot 0,1

Essential oil of cypress 0,1

Salt ocean 0,07

Distilled water the Rest

In the receiving hopper of a rotary cavitation installation (RKU) is loaded prescription quantity of emulsion complex and water with the dissolved sample oceanic salt and sorbent. In individual dispensers loaded: a mixture of olive oils and milk Thistle; a blend of essential oils of Basil, bergamot and cypress; a mixture of extracts of laminaria, fucus, clover, alfalfa and aloe juice. The input components of the individual dispensers is neposredno. From the camera sound of the finished emulsion, the tool is fed into the hopper of the filling machine. Cycle time - 2.5 minutes for 50 kg of the finished product.

Example 2. the hydrating eye cream

Composition, wt.%

Emulsion complex Mirra No. 1” 76,0

Jojoba oil 4,0

Extract herbal collection 3,4

Grape 2,5

Oil rosehip extract 2,0

Yarrow extract 2,0

Lavender essential oil 0,2

Essential oil of myrrh 0,15

Essential oil of Jasmine 0,1

Essential oil of rosemary 0,1

Essential oil ylang-ylang 0,07

Essential oil of mint 0,05

Salt ocean 0,03

Distilled water the Rest

In the receiving hopper of a rotary cavitation installation (RKU) is loaded prescription quantity of emulsion complex and water with the dissolved sample oceanic salt. In individual dispensers loaded: a mixture of oil and grape, jojoba oil and rosehip extract; blend of essential oils of lavender, myrrh, peppermint, ylang-ylang, Jasmine and rosemary; mix of milfoil and herb gathering. The input components of the it mix emulsion complex and aqueous solution. From the camera sound of the finished emulsion, the tool is fed into the hopper of the filling machine. Duration of cycle 3 minutes to 50 kg of the finished product.

Example 3. Cream for skin care body Cosmetic sour”

Composition, wt.%:

Emulsion complex Mirra No. 3” 54,0

Soybean oil 4,0

Oil apricot 2,8

Extract of melilot 2,5

Celandine extract 2,5

Calendula extract 2,0

Glycerin 2,0

Castor oil 1,3

Ascorbic acid 0,25

Essential oil of myrrh 0,2

Essential oil of geranium 0,15

Essential oil of Jasmine 0,1

Lemon essential oil 0,1

Vitamin E 0,1

The succinic acid 0,1

Essential oil patchouli 0,03

Essential oil of frankincense 0,02

Distilled water the Rest

In the receiving hopper of a rotary cavitation installation (RKU) is loaded prescription quantity of emulsion complex and water with dissolved by weight of glycerin, ascorbic acid, and succinic. In individual dispensers loaded: a mixture of oils, soy, apricot, castor and vitamin E; a blend of essential oils of myrrh, geranium, the material dispenser directly into the camera sound during the passage through it of the mixture of emulsion complex and aqueous solution. From the camera sound of the finished emulsion, the tool is fed into the hopper of the filling machine. Cycle time is 4 minutes for 70 kg of the finished product.

In the production method of the emulsion cosmetics:

- no thermal decomposition of biologically active substances (BAS), the reduction in their activity at high temperatures;

- homogenization is exposed to the mixture of emulsion complex with a full set of BAS, with BAS included in the droplets (globules) of the obtained emulsion, along with surface-active substances (surfactants) are embedded in a shell on the interfacial surface;

- BAS are in the dispersion medium of the emulsion, i.e., in a pharmaceutically acceptable solvent;

emulsion turns out fine and homogeneous with droplets (globules) of the same size, i.e., monodisperse;

- the proposed technology increases the efficiency of cosmetics.

Due to the use of the proposed method obtained the finest emulsion that provides deep penetration into the skin active mineral components, essential for normal functioning of skin cells, improves to anaysis effect, therefore it is especially suitable for the care of very dry and has a tendency to dry the skin, but also to care for aging skin.

The sanitary-epidemiological certificates, certificates of compliance, clinical trials on the effectiveness of the obtained emulsion funds.

Wide possibilities of cavitation homogenization allow you to use the method to improve the efficiency of existing serial and newly established production lines.

The proposed method can be applied in an independent line for the production of personal cosmetics or in total production line of cosmetic products.

Using the method of cavitational emulsification CJSC “Mirra-M” produces more than 60 types of cosmetics since confirmed by independent organizations effectiveness. High efficiency and competitiveness awarded platinum and gold symbols “all-Russian mark (III Millennium). Quality mark of XXI century”, Honorary diplomas “Moscow quality”, medals of the national competition of perfumes and cosmetics, prizes “Golden Incheba” and “Blue planet” kiuchumi dispersion in a pharmaceutically acceptable solvent at room temperature soluble components, such as vegetable oil, emulsifier and biologically active substances of plant and marine origin, and the components are administered simultaneously or sequentially through individual dispensers in rotary cavitation installation with powerful sonar effects, which produce a dispersion of the components and cavitation homogenization of the emulsion, followed by filling, characterized in that the input components of the individual dispensers are carried out directly at the camera sound during the passage through it of the mixture of emulsion complex Myrrh and water solution that is produced in the rotary cavitation installation by way of cavitational emulsification, while previously or simultaneously in the process of dispersion in the camera sound serves at least one gelling agent and/or thickener to 5% calculated on the total weight and in the process of cavitation homogenization enter at least one insoluble in the phases of the emulsion, solid powdered ingredient sorbent or abrasive, and the finished product with high organoleptic properties after 2.5-4 min serves in packing containers through the camera sound.

3. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that the emulsifier used for emulsion complex Mirra, including grape, coconut oil, distilled monoglycerides, glycerol and distilled wax emulsion or a containing soybean oil, beeswax, stearate PEG and stearin.

4. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that as BAS use of water, water-alcohol, water-spiroperidol, carbon dioxide or oil extracts and/or the juices of plants.

5. The method according to p. 1, characterized in that as an acceptable solvent chosen solvent from the group of 2-10% ethyl alcohol, glycerin distilled or distilled water.



 

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