Composition for skin care, care for her, a way to simulate exposure of the skin to retinoic acid

 

(57) Abstract:

The invention relates to medicine and relates to a composition for skin care containing fatty amide hydroxy acids in combination with retinol or retinaculum ether complex, which leads to a synergistic inhibition of differentiation of keratinocytes. This action is similar to action of retinoic acid. The invention also relates to a method of simulating exposure of the skin to retinoic acid and to a method of skin care. 3 S. and 2 C.p. f-crystals, 3 tables.

The scope of the invention

The present invention relates to compositions for skin care containing amide and retinol or retinology ester, and cosmetic ways, providing for the application of such compositions to the skin.

Background of the invention

Retinol (vitamin a) is an endogenous compound which is but natural conditions present in the human body and is essential for normal differentiation of epithelial cells. Natural and synthetic derivatives of vitamin A are widely used for treatment of certain skin diseases, and also used as a means to restore the bio is toany skin, for example, acne, wrinkles, psoriasis, aging spots and hyperpigmentation (discoloration). See, for example, Vahiquist, A. et al. , J. Invest. Dermatol., Vol. 94, Holland D. B. & Cunliffe, W. J. (1990), pp. 496-498; Ellis,C. N. et al., "Pharmacology of Retinols in Skin", Vasel, Karger, Vol. 3 (1939), pp. 249-252; Lowe, N. J. et al, "Pharmacology or Retinols in Skin", Vol. 3 (1989), pp. 240-248; Publication of PCT application N WO 93/19743.

Obviously, the use of retinol or retinology esters are preferable to the use of retinoic acid. Retinol is an endogenous compound. Esters of retinol hydrolyzed in vivo by producing retinol. Retinol and retinova esters are considered more secure than retinoic acid. Unfortunately, the beneficial effect on the skin retinol and retinology esters is less effective than retinoic acid. The present invention is partly based on the detection of the fact that the combination of retinol or retinology esters with inorganic salts of fatty hydroxyacids leads to synergistic inhibition of differentiation of keratinocytes. Action amides of fatty hydroxyacids in combination with retinol or retinaculum complex ester analogous to the action of retinoic acid. Thus, the use of a mixture of amide fatty hydroxyacids with is safer to use, than retinoic acid.

In U.S. patent N 5057501 (Thornfeldt) describes a method for the treatment of papular-scaly and exanthematous diseases of the skin using a composition containing sesquiterpene compound, and from about 0,025% to about 35% of monocarboxylic fatty acids of ester or amide. These compositions may also contain a retinoid; and Thornfeldt reports that some retinoids, namely, isotretinoin, tretinoin, etretin (all of them are stereotomy retinoic acid) and etretinate (ester trimethoxyphenylacetic acid) possess effective action against papular-squamous diseases. In published PCT application WO/9325177 (Proctor & Gamble) describes a composition for topical application to the skin, which contain a specific type of acyclic carboxamides refrigerant and may contain retinoids, such as retinoic acid and its derivatives (e.g., CIS - and TRANS-). In published PCT application WO/9403156 (Rhone Poulenc) describes compositions for topical application, containing linoleic acid or its derivative as an active ingredient for the treatment and prevention of impure skin (e.g. skin, prone to the formation of pimples, pustules or blackheads); moreover, this composition can t the La treatment of seborrhea, containing alkylcarboxylic and zinc salt, which can be retinoate zinc.

Klaus et al. (U.S. patent N 5216148) describe the use of specific complex carboxamido to treat and prevent the formation of tumors, skin and aging skin. Van Scott et al. (U.S. patent N 4380549) and Yu et al. (U.S. patent N 4363815) describe the treatment of acne, dry, rough, scaly skin using a hydroxy acid or its amide. In EP 0582458 described the use of N, N-(1,4 C-alkyl)lauramide. In EP 0559304 described use as softening the skin agent amide containing hydrocarbonous chain, containing at least 25 carbon atoms. Beauquey et al. (U.S. patent N 5308551) describe cleaning and conditioning composition for skin containing, among other ingredients, 1-4C-alkanolamide 8-16C-fatty acids. In the description of the patent in the UK N 1126289 (Hoffman-La Roche) describes a concentrated vitamin preparation containing alcohol vitamin A or ester of vitamin A, an emulsifier and a solvent chosen from ethanol or dialkylamide monocarboxylic acid (for example, N, N-diethylacetamide, N,N-dimethylacetamide or N,N-dimethylformamide). This vitamin preparation has a very high content of vitamin a, that is, it m is eritza or not mentioned melinamide.

In the previously filed application in the European patent EP 0742005 (Unilever; the priority date of may 8, 1995), published on 13 November 1996 (the priority date of this application), describes the combination of amides of fatty acids with retinol or retinolum esters. However, in EP '005 is not specified amides of fatty hydroxyacids.

In the works cited above, is not described compositions for skin care based on synergistic combinations of amides of fatty hydroxyacids with retinol or retinaculum complex ether. None of the above cited works not specified the use of effective compounds that could serve as alternatives to retinoic acid.

Brief description of the invention

The present invention relates in part to compositions for skin care containing

(a) from 0.001% to 10% of a retinoid selected from the group consisting of retinol and retinacula complex ether;

b) from 0.0001% to 50% fatty amide hydroxy acids; and

c) a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method of skin care, providing local application of this composition to the skin. In addition, the present invention relative is giving this composition on the skin.

The term "skin care (conditioning) used in the present description, means the prevention and treatment of one or more of the following skin conditions: dry skin, skin damage from sun rays, wrinkles, aging spots, skin aging, acne, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis. These compositions can also be used for skin whitening, and/or regulating the excretion of sebum, and/or increase the elasticity of the stratum corneum, and mainly, to improve the quality of the skin. This composition can be used to enhance desquamation of the skin and cell proliferation.

The presence of fatty amide hydroxy acids in the product of the present invention significantly improves the efficiency of retinol or retinacula of ester, i.e. amide fatty hydroxyacids, mainly increases the ability of retinol or retinacula of ester to the effects on cell proliferation. Amide fatty hydroxyacids, used separately, no significant enhancing effect on skin or has a slight enhancing effect; and significant beneficial effects on the skin can only be achieved if the amide fatty hydroxyacids obyedinenie in part, based on the discovery of a synergistic interaction between retinol or retinaculum complex air and amidon fatty hydroxyacids.

In accordance with the present invention, the effectiveness of these compositions is significantly enhanced by the inclusion of an effective amount of the amide fatty hydroxyacids in compositions containing retinol or retinology ester. Alternatively, a composition comprising a fatty amide hydroxy acids, can be included lower levels of retinol or retinacula of ester to obtain compositions with performance equivalent to similar compositions not containing amide.

Description of the preferred option of carrying out the invention

Compositions of the present invention contain as the first main ingredient a compound selected from the group consisting of retinol, retinology esters and mixtures thereof.

The term "retinol" includes, among others, the following isomers of retinol: all-TRANS-retinol, 13-CIS-retinol, 11-CIS-retinol, 9-CIS-retinol, 3,4-didehydro-retinol. Of them preferred isomers are all-TRANS-retinol, 13 - CIS-retinol, 3,4-didehydro-retinol, 9-is available.

Retinology ester is an ester of retinol. The term "retinol" was defined above. Retinolum esters, are suitable for use in the present invention are C1-C30-esters of retinol, preferably, C2-C20-esters, and more preferably C2C3and C16-esters because they are the most commercially available. Examples retinology esters include, but are not limited to, retinilpalmitat, retinilpalmitat, reinjected, retailpoint, recidivation, retinacular, reinlasoder, retinyl-hexanoate, retirement, retinostat, retirement, reminiscent, retinologist, retailmart, retinylidene, retailmenot, retailmanagement, reinervation, reminiscent, reinlasoder, retailmanagement, retinylidene, retirement, retailmenot, recinoleic, retinella, retinologist, etinilestradiol, retailgrocers, reinalter.

The preferred ester for use in the present invention are selected from retinilpalmitat, retinella and retailprofiling.com. Retinylidene is also preferred due to its effectiveness.

Retinoid used in the compositions of the present invention in amounts of from 0.001% to 10%, preferably in quantities of from 0.01% to 1%, and more preferably in quantities of from 0.01% to 0.5%.

The second main ingredient of the compositions of the present invention is a fatty amide hydroxy acids. Amide fatty hydroxy acid has the following structure:

< / BR>
where each of R1, R2and R4independently selected from hydrogen and aliphatic saturated or unsaturated, straight or branched hydrocarbon chains, which can be gidroksilirovanii and which contain from 1 to 20 carbon atoms;

R3represents -(CH2)nwhere n denotes an integer from 0 to 18;

Preferably, each of R1, R2, R4independently contain from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 2 to 15 carbon atoms, and most preferably from 3 to 13 carbon atoms.

Amidon hydroxy acid is preferably amide or hydroxy acids, i.e., n=0 or 1.

The most preferred inorganic salts of fatty hydroxyacids, which can bitslice (2-hydroxy-C13-amide), N-hydroxyethyl-2-hydroxy-C16-amide, 12-hydroxy-N- (2-hydroxyethyl)octadecenamide and monoethanolamide castor oil.

Amide contained in the compositions of the present invention in amounts comprising from 0.0001% to 50%, preferably from 0.01% to 10%, and most preferably from 0.1% to 5%.

Cosmetically acceptable medium

The composition of the present invention also includes a cosmetically acceptable carrier, which acts as a diluent, dispersant or carrier for retinol or retinacula of ester and amide fatty hydroxyacids in this composition, so that it facilitates their distribution when applying the composition to the skin.

Anhydrous media or media used in addition to water, can be liquid or solid emollients, solvents, water-retaining agents, thickeners and powders. Especially preferred is anhydrous carrier is a polydimethylsiloxane and/or polymethylphenylsiloxane. Silicones of the present invention can be silicones with a viscosity constituting from about 10 to 10,000,000 mm2/s (CST) at 25oC. Especially preferred are mixtures selektovani signs Vicasil, SE and SF and the company Dow Corning under the serial marks 200 and 550. The amount of silicone that can be used in the compositions of the present invention varies approximately in the range of 5% to 95%, and preferably from 25% to 90% by weight of the composition.

Cosmetically acceptable carrier is usually from 5% to 99.9%, preferably from 25% to 80% by weight of the composition, and can be used in the absence of other cosmetic additives, there may be the rest of the song (in addition to the active ingredients). Preferably, the medium contains at least 50%, and more preferably at least 80% water by mass media. While it is preferable that the water was at least 50% and most preferably at least 60 to 80% by weight of the composition of the present invention.

Optional materials for skin care and cosmetic additives

Oil or oily material may be present in the composition together with an emulsifier to form an emulsion of the type water-in-oil or oil-in-water, mainly depending on the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (products HLB) emulsifier used.

Compositions of the present invention sod is used for protection against exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Typical compounds are derivatives RAVA, cinnamate and salicylate. So, for example, can be used octylmethoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (also known as oxybenzone). Octylmethoxycinnamate and 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone are commercially available compounds, sold under the trademark Parsol MCX and Benzophenone-3, respectively. The exact amount of sunscreen chemicals used in the emulsions can vary depending on the desired degree of protection against solar UV radiation.

Other preferred, but optional ingredients are selected from essential fatty acids (EFA), that is, those fatty acids, which are important for the formation of the plasma membrane of all cells; for example, in keratinocytes lack NLC leads to hyperproliferation of these cells. Adding in these cells NLC allows to correct this phenomenon. In addition, NLC increase of lipid biosynthesis in the epidermis and ensure the availability of lipids for the formation of structures that perform the barrier role of the epidermis. Essential fatty acids are chosen, preferably, from linolevoi acid-linolenovoi acid, Homo--linolenic acid, the second acid, and mixtures thereof.

Another preferred optional ingredient is selected from azoles, such as climbazole, bifonazole, clotrimazole, ketoconazole, miconazole, econazole, Itraconazole, flybase, terconazole, butoconazole, sulconazole, lionsola and mixtures thereof. Azole may be present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of from 0.001 to 50 wt.%, preferably from 0.001 to 10 wt.%, and more preferably from 0.1 to 5%.

In the cosmetic compositions of the present invention often softening agents. The levels of these softening agents may be in the range from 0.5 to 50%, and preferably from 5% to 30% by weight of the entire composition. Softening agents can be classified according to General chemical categories, as esters, fatty acids and alcohols, polyols and hydrocarbons.

Esters can be complex mono - or diesters. Suitable examples of complex diesters of fatty acids are debutylation, diethylsilane, Diisopropylamine and dioctylamine. Suitable esters of fatty acids with branched-chain 2-ethyl-exilerated, isopropylmalate and isostearamide. Suitable esters trekhosnovnykh acids the two are eurylaimidae, myristylated, alilauro and sterilant. Preferred esters are Coco-kaprilat/capret (a blend of Coco-kaprilat and Coco-caprate), acetate miristinovoi ether of propylene glycol, diisopropylamide and tetrachromat.

Suitable fatty alcohols and acids are compounds having 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Especially preferred are such compounds as citylove, ministerului, Piletilevi and stearyl alcohols and acids.

The polyols that can serve as mitigating agents are linear and branched alkylpolyglucoside connection. For example, preferred are propylene glycol, sorbitol and glycerin. Can also be used polymeric polyols, such as polypropyleneglycol and polyethylene glycol. Butylene and propylene glycol are particularly preferred as the intensification of the absorption.

Examples of hydrocarbons that can serve as mitigating agents are hydrocarbon chains having from about 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Specific examples of such compounds are mineral oil, petrolatum, squalene and ISO.

Another one is Italy. The thickener is typically present in amounts from about 0.1 to 20%, and preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight of the composition. Examples of such thickeners are structured polyacrylate materials supplied by B. F. Goodrich Company under the trademark Carbopol. Used resins can be such resins as xanthan gum, Karaganova gum, gelatin, gum karaya, pectin resin, and the resin is false. Under certain conditions, the function of thickening can be performed by using a material that serves as a silicone or a softening agent. So, for example, silicone resin with a viscosity exceeding 10 Centistokes, and esters, such as glycerol stearate, have a dual function.

In the composition of the present invention can be introduced powders. Such powders are chalk, talc, kaolin, starch, smectite clays, chemically modified silicate of magnesium, organically modified montmorillonite clay, hydrated aluminum silicate, finely dispersed silicon dioxide, almaatinskiy starch and mixtures thereof.

In the cosmetic compositions of the present invention may also include other auxiliary the quality of these ancillary components and additives may be approximately in the range between 0.001% and up to 20% by weight of the composition.

Composition

The composition of the present invention is used mainly as a product intended for topical application to human skin, especially as a conditioning and softening the skin agent, and to prevent or reduce the formation of wrinkles on the skin, or improve the appearance of dull skin.

When using a small amount of the composition, for example from 1 to 100 ml, this composition is applied on the treated skin surface from a suitable container or applicator and, if necessary, distribute it and/or rubbed into the skin of his palm or fingers, or by using appropriate tools.

Product form and packaging

The composition of the present invention, intended for the care of the skin by topical application may be made in the form of lotion, cream or gel. This composition can be packaged in a suitable container, which corresponds to the viscosity of this composition is suitable for use by the consumer. For example, a lotion or cream can be packaged in bottles or in ball applicator, or spray aerosol device or a container, sabrea, then it's just stored in a non-vessel or in a tightly closed container, such as a tube or fitting lid cosmetic jar. This composition can also be enclosed in capsules, such as capsules, described in U.S. patent N 5063057.

The present invention also relates to container tightly closed, containing cosmetically acceptable composition described in this application.

The present invention is illustrated in more detail in the following specific examples. Retinoids were obtained from the company Sigma.

Materials and methods

Cell culture:

The human keratinocytes isolated from neonatal foreskin by treatment with trypsin, were cultured on modified according to the method of Dulbecco environment Needle (DME) and the Hemse F12 (1:1)/10% fetal calf serum in the presence of irradiated mouse fibroblasts ZTZ to create colonies dividing keratinocytes. Cells were cultured in the above conditions until the second passage (inclusive) and kept frozen for further use. Frozen keratinocytes of the second passage were thawed, seeded on the above medium and were cultured for five days, Porgy from Clonetics Corporation, San Diego, CA and containing 0.15 mm Ca, or serum-free medium (KSFM) for cultivation of keratinocytes obtained from Gibco, containing 0.09 mm Ca. On the 7th day, when the cells reached 80-90% confluently, they were treated with trypsin and seeded in serum-free environment for various experiments.

Analysis transglutaminase

Analysis transglutaminase and differentsirovku keratinocytes

In the process of terminal differentiation in the epidermis on the inner surface of the peripheral cell layer is formed protein layer thickness of 15 nm, known as the Horny layer (CE). This keratinized layer consists of many different proteins that cross-stitched with each other through education N--glutamyl)lysine estimating linkages catalyzed by the action of at least two different transglutaminase expressed in the epidermis. Transglutaminase I (TGasa 1) is expressed in abundance in the differentiated layers of the epidermis, especially in the granular layer, but not in undifferentiated basal epidermis. Thus, transglutaminase I can be used as a marker of epidermal differentiation of keratinocytes SNIA differentiation of cultured keratinocytes was performed using ELISA using antibodies against transglutaminase I, as described in the Examples below.

For example 1 used the following procedure:

Keratinocytes (cultured as described above) were seeded in 96-well tablets at a density of 3000 cells per well in 200 μl medium. After incubation for four days, the medium was replaced with medium containing test compounds (6 duplicates on the test). Cells were cultured for another 72 hours, after which the medium was aspirated, and the tablets were stored at -70oC. Then, the tablets were removed from the refrigerator, and the cells were washed in PBS. After adding 100 µl of sterile water cells are destroyed by freezing at -70oC, and then thawing. Cells were incubated for another hour at room temperature (To/T) with PBS/3% BSA (buffer for washing, bovine serum albumin), and then washed with fresh aliquot of the buffer to flush. Cells were incubated for 1 hour at 37oC with 50 µl of mouse monoclonal primary antibodies (IgG) against transglutaminase person obtained from Biomedical Industries and diluted 1:2000 in buffer for washing, and then twice washed with buffer for washing. After that, cells were incubated for 1 hour at 37oC with 50 μl of secondary antibody (Fab fragment; the con is in the ratio of 1:4000 buffer for washing, and then twice washed with buffer for washing. Cells were incubated with substrate solution (4 mg o-phenylenediamine and 3,3 ál of 30% H2O2in 10 ml of 0.1 M citrate buffer, pH 5.0) for five minutes at room temperature in the dark (under aluminum foil). The reaction was stopped by adding 50 μl of 4 N. H2SO4. The optical density of the samples was read at 492 nm on a tablet reader. Of the six four duplicates duplicate was treated with both antibodies, and two duplicate was treated with only secondary antibody (i.e., to determine background binding of the antibody conjugated with the enzyme). Levels transglutaminase I was determined by subtracting background values from the values obtained after each treatment, and determining the mean square error average square Osh.) for duplicates, processed by both antibodies.

For example 2 used the following procedure:

Keratinocytes (cultured as described above) were seeded in 96-well tablets at a density of 3000 cells per well in 200 μl of media for culturing cells. After incubation for four days, the medium was replaced with medium containing test compounds (6 duplicates on the test). Cells were cultured for another 7 the refrigerator, cells are destroyed by freezing at -70oC and thawing, and then three times washed with PBS. Cells were incubated for another hour h at room temperature (To/T) with TBS/5% BSA. Then cells were incubated for 2 hours at 37oC with 100 µl of mouse monoclonal antibodies (IgG) against transglutaminase person (primary antibody) obtained from Biomedical Technologies Inc. and diluted 1:2000 in TBS buffer/1% BSA, and then washed six times with buffer for washing (TBS/1% BSA/0.05% tween-20). After that, cells were incubated for 2 hours at 37oC with 100 μl of Fab fragment conjugated to peroxidase antibodies against mouse IgG (secondary antibody) obtained from Amersham and diluted in the ratio of 1:4000 buffer for washing, and then three times washed with buffer and rinsing three times in PBS. Cells were incubated with substrate solution (4 mg o-phenylenediamine and 3,3 ál of 30% H2O2in 10 ml of 0.1 M nitrate buffer, pH 5.0) for five minutes at room temperature in the dark (under aluminum foil). The reaction was stopped by adding 50 μl of 4 N. H2SO4. The optical density of the samples was read at 492 nm on a tablet reader. Of the six four duplicates duplicate was treated with both antibodies, and two duplicates is checked with the enzyme). Levels transglutaminase I was determined by subtracting background values from the values obtained after each treatment, and determining the mean square error average square Osh.) for duplicates, processed by both antibodies.

Analysis of DNA

Level transglutaminase I found after treatment of the cells should depend on the number of cells, that is, the greater the number of cells, the greater the level of detectable transglutaminase I. Level transglutaminase 1 was normalized to the DNA content in the cells in the same well, which helped to bridge the gap caused by the difference in the number of cells. Quantitative assessment of DNA can be, in particular, used as an indicator of the number of cells, including keratinocytes, since each cell is, in essence, identical to the genome, and therefore the same amount of DNA. Hence, the complete DNA content of cells in the well is directly proportional to the number of cells in the well. Quantitative assessment of DNA was used for data normalization levels transglutaminase 1 to the number of cells.

Keratinocytes were seeded in 96-well tablets at a density of 3000 cells per well in 200 μl medium. After incubation for four days Wednesday replacements is what the medium was aspirated, and the tablets were stored for at least 1.5 hours at -70oC. Then, the tablets were removed from the refrigerator and thawed for 30 minutes. After this was added 100 μl/well of Hoechst dye (final concentration 1 μg/ml) and incubated for 15 minutes, after which the tablets were coated and read on fluorimeter (excitation at 360 nm and emission at 460 nm). The dye solution was removed, and the wells were washed in PBS in preparation for analysis on transglutaminase.

Example 1

Retinoic acid is more effective than retinol, changing the state of differentiation of the keratinocytes

It was investigated the effect of retinoic acid (RA) and retinol (ROH) on the levels transglutaminase, normalized to cellular DNA content, after addition of retinoic acid (RA) and retinol (ROH), and the results of this study are presented in table 1.

At all concentrations tested retinoic acid, 2,5 10-7M, 2.5 10-8M and 2.5 10-9M, contributed to the decrease in the differentiation of keratinocytes compared to control (ethanol), and this decrease was significantly greater extent than that which was achieved by treatment with the use of each of the respective end awiseman for retinoic acid, and for retinol. This suggests that retinoic acid has a stronger inhibitory effect on epithelial differentiation of keratinocytes than retinol.

Example 2

Amides of fatty hydroxy acids and retinol denied synergistic inhibitory effect on the differentiation of keratinocytes

The effect of test compounds on the levels transglutaminase I, normalized to the DNA content in cells was assessed in response to the 72-hour treatment with these compounds. Amide was obtained from the company Quest International. Amide C13--hydroxy acids had the following structure:

< / BR>
The concentration of 2.5 to 10-8M retinoic acid very effectively suppresses the levels transglutaminase I keratinocytes (up to 6% of the control level). The concentration of 2.5 to 10-8M retinol is less effective than retinoic acid (79%), and the concentration of 10-9M amide C13--hydroxy acid, used alone, has no inhibitory effect on the level transglutaminase I keratinocytes. However, concentration of 2.5 to 10-8M retinol +10-8M amide C13--hydroxy acids inhibited transglutaminase I keratinocytes to 62% of control levels. Therefore, amide C13

The effect of test compounds on the levels transglutaminase I, normalized to the DNA content in cells was assessed in response to the 72-hour treatment with these compounds. The term "lactamide MEA" means monoethanolamide-lactamide. This compound was obtained from the company Croda Chemicals. Lactamide MEA has the following structure:

< / BR>
The concentration of 2.5 to 10-7M retinoic acid effectively inhibits the levels transglutaminase I keratinocytes (up to 73% of control level). Concentration of 2.5 to 10-7M retinol and 10-6M lactamide-DEA used separately, less effectively inhibit transglutaminase I keratinocytes. However, concentration of 2.5 to 10-7M retinol + 10-6M lactamide-DEA inhibited levels transglutaminase I keratinocytes to 72% of control levels. Therefore, Lactaid-MEA and retinol synergistically inhibit differentiation of keratinocytes similar to the action of retinoic acid.

In examples 1 and 2 demonstrated that retinoic acid inhibits differentiation of keratinocytes dose-dependent manner. In examples 1 and 2 was carried out by analysis, where retinoic acid was used as positive control and reference compound used for ASS="ptx2">

But the unexpected results obtained in examples 1 and 2 indicate that the effect of retinol on cultured keratinocytes can be amplified to levels approaching the level of action of retinoic acid by combining retinol or retinacula of ester with Amida fatty hydroxyacids, that is with the connection, which in itself has little impact or do not appear to have any effect on keratinocytes. The results obtained above indicate that the amide fatty hydroxyacids, taken in combination with retinol or complex retinaculum ether, acts synergistically reducing the differentiation of keratinocytes, imitating the action of retinoic acid.

In examples 3-8 illustrates the composition for local application in accordance with the present invention. These compositions can be obtained in a standard way. They are suitable for use in cosmetics. In particular, these compositions can be used for drawing on wrinkled, rough, dry, scaly, faded and/or UV-damaged skin to improve its appearance and sensitivity, as well as for application to healthy skin in order Pres is aspersa emulsion type water in oil", including composition of the present invention, wt.%:

Retinol - 0,5

Fully gidrirovannoe coconut oil - 3,9

Amide fatty C13--hydroxy acid - 5

Brij 92*- 5

Benton 38 - 0,5

MgSO47 H2O - 0,3

Bottled hydroxytrol - 0,01

Odorant - Hon. No.

Water up to 100

*Brij 92 - alerby ether of polyoxyethylene (2).

Example 4

This example illustrates the cream-type oil-in-water, including composition of the present invention, wt.%:

Retinilpalmitat - 0,15

Mineral oil - 4

Lactamide MEA - 1

Brij 56*- 4

Alfol 16RD*- 4

Triethanolamine - 0,75

Butane-1,3-diol - 3

Xanthan gum - 0,3

Odorant - Hon. No.

Bottled hydroxytrol - 0,01

Water up to 100

*Brij 56 is cetyl alcohol POE (10)

Alfol 16RD is cetyl alcohol.

Example 5

In this example, illustrated alcohol lotion comprising a composition of the present invention, wt.%:

Retinilpalmitat - 0,15

N-hydroxyethyl-2-hydroxy-C13amide - 0,1

Ethanol - 40

Odorant - Hon. No.

Bottled hydroxytrol - 0,01

Water up to 100

Example 6

%:

Retinol - 0,15

N-hydroxyethyl-2-hydroxy-C13amide - 0,1

Ethanol - 40

Antioxidant - 0,1

Odorant - Hon. No.

Water up to 100

Example 7

This example illustrates sunscreen, including composition of the present invention, wt.%:

Retinol - 0,01

12-Hydroxy-N-(2-hydroxyethyl)octadecanoid - 0,1

Silicone oil 200 cSt - 7,5

Glycerylmonostearate - 3

Sitosterolemia alcohol - 1,6

Polyoxyethylene-(20)-cetyl alcohol - 1,4

Xanthan gum - 0,5

Parsol 1789 - 1,5

Octylmethoxycinnamate (PARSOL MCX) - 7

Odorant - Hon. No.

Dye - Hon. No.

Water up to 100

Example 8

This example illustrates the anhydrous composition for skin care, which includes a combination of compounds of the present invention, wt.%:

Retinoic acid - 0,15

Monoethanolamide castor oil - 1

Silicone gum SE-301- 10

Silicone fluid 3452- 20

Silicone fluid 3443- 55,79

Squalene - 10

Linoleic acid - 0,01

Cholesterol - 0,03

2-hydroxy-n-octanoic acid - 0,7

Linoleate vitamin E - 0,5

Oil from herbal raw materials - 0,5

Ethanol - 2

1Diamox at 25oC and delivered by the company GEC

2Dimethylsiloxane circular pentamer supplied by the company Dow Corning Corp.

3Dimethylsiloxane tetramer supplied by the company Dow Corning Corp.

1. Composition for skin care containing: (a) from 0.001% to 10% of compounds selected from the group consisting of retinol, retinacula of ester and mixtures thereof; (b) from 0.0001% to 50% fatty amide hydroxy acids; and (c) a cosmetically acceptable carrier.

2. The composition according to p. 1, where retinology ether selected from the group consisting of retinilpalmitat, retinella, retailpoint, retinylidene and mixtures thereof.

3. The composition according to p. 1, where ingredient (a) is retinol.

4. The way of skin care, involving applying to the skin a composition under item 1.

5. The way to simulate exposure of the skin retinoic acid, involving applying to the skin the composition of p. 1.

 

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The invention relates to medicine and can be used for the prevention and relief of manifestations of herpes infection on the skin and mucous membranes
Cosmetic // 2173985
The invention relates to cosmetic and applies to products containing biologically active substances
The invention relates to cosmetic and concerns methods and means of care of skin
The invention relates to cosmetic and concerns methods and means of care of skin
The invention relates to the field of cosmetology and dermatology and AIDS skin care

The invention relates to cosmetic compositions of cold cream to clean skin, including water, C2-C6polyhydric alcohol, a hydrocarbon polymer, formed from 6 to 1000 repeating units alkinoos monomer C4-C20and silicone softner
The invention relates to cosmetic and dermatology

FIELD: food industry.

SUBSTANCE: method involves the separate protonation of purified drinking water by addition to its 0.05-0.2 wt.-% of proton donors that are stronger than water and ethyl alcohol, by addition to its 0.1-0.5 wt.-% of proton donors that are stronger than ethyl alcohol, additional protonation of water and alcohol. For this purpose water and ethyl alcohol are fed by separate flows into two cylindrical glass or porcelain vessels wherein stirring is carried out for 1-5 min using, respectively, glass or porcelain mixers rotating at the rate 1000-3000 rev/min followed by separate filtration of water and alcohol flows and their mixing. Alcoholic product comprises the solution prepared by the proposed method as an aqueous-alcoholic solution. Pharmaceutical product contains effective dose of curative substance and pharmaceutically acceptable medium wherein product comprises an aqueous-alcoholic solution prepared by indicated method. Cosmetic product contains effective dose of active substance and cosmetically acceptable medium wherein it comprises an aqueous-alcoholic solution. Invention provides enhancing quality of the end product. Invention can be used for manufacturing alcoholic production and in pharmacology and cosmetology.

EFFECT: improved preparing method.

6 cl, 1 tbl, 8 ex

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