Cosmetic composition for sun protection of the skin and/ or hair, the solubilizer composition and method for protecting the skin and/or hair against uv radiation

 

(57) Abstract:

The proposed cosmetic composition for sun protection of the skin and/or hair, containing in a cosmetically acceptable medium, (i) 4-methylbenzylidene-camphor (compound A) in solubilizing form as active in the UV-region of the filter and (ii) 2-ethylhexyl--cyano-,-diphenylacetate (compound) as the second filter in a quantity sufficient to solubilize it all together the above-mentioned UV-b filter. These compositions can also contain always solubilizing the form of 4-(tert.-butyl)-4-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane (compound C) as active in the field of UV-a filter. Proposed the solubilizer composition and method for protecting the skin and/or hair against UV radiation. The technical result - the creation of a stable composition that gives maximum protection for the entire spectrum of harmful UV radiation. 3 S. and 18 C. p. F.-ly,

The present invention relates to new tinted cosmetic compositions for topical use, intended primarily for sun protection of the skin and/or hair against ultraviolet radiation (song, called in the text a more just as the sun tracks), as well as to their pricey, containing in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a combination of at least two special lipophilic filters, and one of the filters has solubilizers properties relative to the other filter. In addition, the invention relates to a method of solubilization of one or two particular lipophilic particulate filters using another specific lipophilic liquid filter.

It is known that light radiation with wavelengths of 280 - 400 nm causes the Browning of the human epidermis and that rays with wavelengths of 280 - 320 nm, known the name of UV-b, cause eritem and skin burns that can harm the manifestation of a natural tan; therefore, this UV-b radiation should be filtered.

It is also known that UV-a rays, with wavelengths of 320 to 400 nm, which cause darkening of the skin, is able to induce aging. Usually in the case of sensitive skin or of skin continually exposed to solar radiation. UV-a Rays cause in particular the loss of skin elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles, leading to premature aging. They favor the occurrence of erythematous reaction or increase this reaction in some subjects and can even be the cause of the tion.

To date, proposed numerous cosmetic compositions intended for sun protection (UV-a and/or UV-b) of the skin.

For various reasons related in particular with the best usability (tenderness, softness, ease of application, and others), modern tinted compositions are often in the form of emulsions of the type oil-in-water (because cosmetically acceptable carrier, formed of a continuous dispersing aqueous phase and a discontinuous dispersed oil phase, which contains, in varying concentrations, one or more classical organic filters capable of selectively absorbing harmful UV radiation, these filters are chosen depending on the desired protection index (index of protection (IP), which is expressed mathematically by the ratio of the exposure time required to achieve eritematoso threshold with the UV filter, the time required to achieve eritematoso threshold without UV filter). Depending on their lipophilic or hydrophilic nature, these filters can be distributed accordingly or in the fatty phase or in the aqueous phase of the target composition.

It turns out that angampora, which is produced, in particular, to the sale by the company Merck under the trade name "EUSOLEX 6300".

We are talking about a lipophilic, highly efficient in the case of UV-b-radiation filter, which has, however, a feature that is also a disadvantage to be solid at room temperature. Therefore its use in a tinted cosmetic composition causes some difficulties in the formation of this composition and its use, especially when it comes to finding solvents, allowing correctly solubilisate. In this regard, currently the most frequently used oils, such as esters and mainly C12-C15-alkylbenzoates ("FINSOLV TN" by Finetex), or triglycerides and especially triglycerides of fatty acids with 8 to 12 C-atoms ("MIGLYOL 812" by the company Huls), or even a monatomic or polyatomic alcohols, such as ethanol, as well as mixtures thereof. These products, although having solubilities in relation to the above filter properties, however, have the disadvantage that they do not possess any of its own activity in the field of filtering UV radiation as UV-a and UV-b radiation.

So, the applicant is currently an unexpected and surprising way a great solvent for 4-methylbenzylidene-camphor, and this last connection, in fact, has a very high solubilities in octocrylene and in any case clearly higher than those achieved with all other solvents commonly used at the present time, in the same amount of solvent to use larger quantities of the filter. It should be noted that octocrylene is a liquid lipophilic filter, already known for its activity in the UV-b region, but its solubilizing in relation to the first specified filter properties has never been documented. Interest in this opening thus dual, in the sense that it is now possible, on the one hand, to effect solubilization (dissolution) of 4-methylenedinitramine in the solvent, other than those of the prior art, which is always in itself is of interest and all this, on the other hand, the significant increase, at the same concentration of this filter in the target sun composition, level of protection inherent in the latter. In addition, also found that octocrylene has excellent solubilizers ability in relation to special mixture of two solid lipophilic filters, namely smasse a 4-(tert. -butyl)- 4'-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane that makes it possible for tinted formulations, giving maximum protection in the entire spectrum of harmful UV radiation (280 - 400 nm), and these latter compositions, in addition, have excellent stability.

All these discoveries form the basis of the present invention.

Thus, according to one of the objects of the present invention, now offers new cosmetic compositions, especially the sun, which differ in that they contain cosmetically acceptable medium, (i) 4-methylbenzylidene in solubilizing form as active in the UV-region of the filter and (ii) 2-ethylhexyl--cyano-,-diphenylacetate in a quantity sufficient to solubilize (dissolve) is the number of the above-mentioned UV-b filter.

According to another aspect of the present invention, the above compositions contain, in addition, also in solubilizing form active in UV-a is the filter area, which is 4-(tert.-butyl)-4'-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane.

The object of the present invention is also the use of such compositions as, or for cooking, beauty is its radiation.

Still another object of the present invention is a method of cosmetic treatment to protect the skin and/or hair against ultraviolet radiation, in particular solar radiation, which consists essentially in applying to the skin and/or hair an effective amount of the composition according to the invention.

The object of the present invention, finally, is the use of 2-ethylhexyl--cyano-,-diphenylacetate to solubilize (dissolve) 4-methylbenzylidene, if necessary in combination with 4-(tert.-butyl)-4'-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane contained in tinted cosmetic compositions.

Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention follows from the following detailed description.

As mentioned above, 4-methylbenzylidene (primary connection) represents itself known filter, active in the UV-region and which is in a solid form, which is available on sale especially by the company MERCK under the trade name "EUSOLEX 6300" or by the company GIVAUDAN under the trade name "PARSOL 5000". This product meets the following formula (I):

(I)

Similarly, 2-ethylhexyl --cyano-,- diphenylacetate, also known as n is i.i.d. available in the sale by the company BASF under the name "UVINUL N 539". He answers to the following formula (II):

(II)

in which f denotes the phenyl radical.

Finally, 4-(tert.-butyl)-4'-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane (possible connection C), which is active in the UV-a region, in itself known filter, which preferably can be included in compositions according to the invention, from the side is produced especially in the sale by the company GIVAUDAN under the trade name "PARSOL 1789" and corresponds to the formula (III):

(III)

Compound a (solubilities UV-b filter) in the composition according to the invention can be in a concentration of 0.5 - 10 wt.% calculated on the total weight of the composition. According to a significant difference in the present invention, this connection should be in the composition in a completely or essentially completely, solubilizing form.

Connection (solubilizers) may be present in the compositions according to the invention in quantities of 2 to 15 wt.%, calculated on the total weight of the composition. According to an essential characteristic of the compositions according to the invention, this connection should be used in such a quantity that is sufficient to solubilize it all, or essentially all, of the connection And, prisutstvuyuschee temperature), connection And the connection shows that the above conditions solubilization is achieved when the mass ratio [(compound) / (compound (A)] is 0.3 - 30. Preferably, this ratio, according to the present invention, select above 0.5 and below 25, even more preferably below 10. For information, the solubility of the compounds And in combination In amounts of about 60 wt.%.

When you want, in addition, to use the connection With (solid UV-a filter) in the composition according to the invention, then you need to have that connection, or was this song in a completely or essentially completely, solubilizing form, caring, therefore, in this case that either use the number of connections, which remains compatible (i.e., able to dissolve, on the one hand, and, on the other hand, without causing destabilization or any other perturbations) phase formed by the mixture of [(compound A) + (compound)], sold above; or you can use the original a sufficient number of connections to ensure full and stable dissolution of a mixture of [(compound A) + (connection)]. For information, it was found that a mixture containing the compound a and visit, the concentration of compounds a, b and if necessary With chosen so that the index sun protection target composition is preferably comprised of at least 2.

According to a particularly preferred feature of the compositions according to the invention, these latter do not contain preferably no, or essentially no solvent for compounds a or (a+C), other than the above connection Century. According to the invention, it is believed that one of the specified connection does not have solubilizers properties in relation to another specified connection, when this latter compound has a solubility below about 1 wt.% in this first connection.

In addition, always according to the preferred implementation variant of the present invention, the cosmetically acceptable medium containing various compounds And, in case of need, is an emulsion of the type oil-in-water.

Cosmetic tinted compositions according to the invention can of course contain one or more additional solar filters, active in UV-a and/or UV-b region (absorbers), hydrophilic or lipophilic, of course drugaya derivatives of cinnamic acid, salicylic acid derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, derivatives dibenzoylmethane, derivatives-diphenylacetone acid, derivatives of p-aminobenzoic acid, polymer filters and silicone filters described in the application WIPO-93/04665. Other examples of organic filters are given in European patent application EP-A 0487404.

Compositions according to the invention may also include causing artificially tanning and/or artificial skin darkening agents (causing the artificial tanning agents), such as, for example, dihydroxyacetone (DHA).

Cosmetic compositions according to the invention can contain pigments or another nanopigments (average primary particle size is usually 5-100 nm, preferably 10-50 nm) on the basis of metal oxides, coated or without it, as, for example, nanopigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and/or anatase form), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium, all of which are in themselves known sunscreen agents to act by physically blocking (reflection and/or diffusion) of UV radiation. Classic agents covering ablauts the first coating or without it particularly described in European patent applications EP-a-O 518772 and EP-a-O 518773.

Compositions of the invention can also contain classical beauty supplements especially chosen in the group comprising fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, softeners, antioxidants, dampers, stabilizers, plasticizers (softeners), silicones, -hydroxy acids, antispyware, hidratante, vitamins, perfumes, preservatives, surface active agents, fillers, complexing agents, polymers, push agents (propulseurs), alkalizing or acidifying agents, dyes or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics, in particular for the preparation of tinted compositions in the form of emulsions.

Fatty substances can be formed with oil or wax or mixtures thereof, and they also comprise fatty acids, fatty alcohols and esters of fatty acids. Oil can be selected in the group comprising animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils, and especially in the group, including vaseline oil, paraffin oil, silicone oils, volatile or not, ISO, poly-olefins, fluorinated or perfluorinated oils. Similarly, the waxes you can choose among animals, mineralquelle can be called lower alcohols and lower polyhydric alcohols.

The thickeners may be chosen especially among crosslinked polyacrylic acid, diatomaceous resins (les gommes de guar and modified or neodiprion cellulose, such as hydroxypropylamino yeasty resin, methylhydroxyethylcellulose and hypromellose.

Compositions according to the invention can prepare a well-known specialist of ways, and especially those intended for the preparation of emulsions of the type oil-in-water or water-in-oil.

This composition can be in particular in the form of a simple or complex emulsion (M/b, b/m, M//M or/M/, where M is an oil In water), such as a cream, a milk, a gel or a cream-gel, powder, solid stick, and if necessary it can be packaged as an aerosol and be in the form of a foam or applied by spraying the drug.

When it comes to the emulsion, the water phase may include non-ionic vesicular dispersion, prigotovlyaemye by known methods (Bandham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965); patents France N 2315991 and N 2416008).

Cosmetic composition of the invention can be used as protective to the human epidermis or the hair from ultraviolet>When the cosmetic composition according to the invention is used for protecting the human epidermis against UV rays or as a tinted compositions, it may be in the form of a suspension or dispersion in solvents or fatty substances, in the form of a nonionic vesicular dispersion or in the form of an emulsion, preferably of the type oil-in-water, such as a cream or a milk, in the form of an ointment, gel, solid stick, an aerosol foam or caused by atomization of the drug.

When the cosmetic composition according to the invention is used for protecting the hair, it can be in the form of a shampoo, lotion, gel, emulsion, nonionic vesicular dispersion, hairspray and represents, for example, the composition for rinsing, applied before or after shampooing, before or after dyeing or bleaching, before, during or after permanent or straightening; a lotion or gel for hairstyles or treatment; a lotion or gel for TouchUp or styling; a composition for permanent or straightening, dyeing or bleaching the hair.

When the composition is used as a product for makeup, eyelashes, eyebrows or skin, such as creams for the treatment of epidermis, the Jew is of the eye, called "eye liner", it can be in solid or pasty, anhydrous or aqueous form, as emulsion, oil-in-water or water-in-oil, non-ionic vesicular dispersion or even suspension.

For information, tinted formulations according to the invention that have a media type emulsion oil-in-water, the aqueous phase is usually 50 to 95 wt.%, preferably 70 to 80 wt.%, in the calculation of the totality of the formulation, and the oil phase (including solubilization and solubilizing lipophilic filters) is 5 to 50 wt.%. preferably 10 to 30 wt. percent, based on the totality of the formulation, and the (co)emulsifier or (co)emulsifier is 0.5 - 20 wt.%, preferably 2 to 10 wt.%, in the calculation of the totality of the formulation. It should be noted that, according to the present invention, the fatty phase of such emulsions can be formed on the merits or even entirely only connection (organic solvent) in which is (are) the solubilized (solubilisation) filter or filters a and C, above, as well as possible additional filters and other classical lipophilic cosmetic additives.

As stated in the beginning of the description, as PR is protection from UV rays, which is applied to the skin and/or hair an effective quantity of a cosmetic composition, such as the above.

Below are given to illustrate the invention and specific examples, which, however, do not limit the scope of protection of the invention.

Example 1. Emulsion oil-in-water

4-Methylbenzylidene ("EUSOLEX 6300" - 3 g

2-Ethylhexyl --cyano-,- diphenylacetate ("UVINUL N 539") - 6 grams

A mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, acetylaminophenol with 33 moles, of ethylene oxide produced in the sale of the company NENKEL under the name "Sinnowax AO" (emulsifier) - 7 grams

A mixture of mono-, di-and tri-stearate glycerol (simulator) to 2 grams

Triglycerides of fatty acids with 8 to 12 C-atoms ("MIGLYOL 812") to 2 grams

The polydimethylsiloxane 1.5 g

Cetyl alcohol 1.5 g

Distilled water is the Necessary amount to 100 g

The above emulsion is obtained by dissolving the filter in the fatty phase, adding the (co)emulsifier in this fatty phase is brought to a temperature of about 80oC, and, finally, adding, with rapid stirring, water, preheated to the same temperature.

Example 2. Emulsion oil-in-water

4-Methylbenzylidene-camphor ("EUSOLEX 6300" - 4, N 539") - 10 grams

A mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol-cetylstearyl alcohol, acetyltyrosine with 33 moles of ethylene oxide produced in the sale of the company NENKEL under the name "Sinnowax AO" (emulsifier) -

A mixture of mono-, di and tristearate glycerol (simulator) to 2 grams

Triglycerides of fatty acids with 8 to 12 C-atoms ("MIGLYOL 812") to 2 grams

The polydimethylsiloxane 1.5 g

Cetyl alcohol 1.5 g

Distilled water Up to 100 g

This emulsion is prepared as in example 1.

Example 3. Emulsion water-in-oil

4-Methylbenzylidene-camphor ("EUSOLEX 6300") 3 g

4-(Tert.-butyl)-4'-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane ("PARSOL 1789") - 1 g

2-Ethylhexyl --cyano-,- diphenylacetate ("UVINUL N 539") - 8 grams

TiO2nanopigments quality - 1.5 grams

A mixture of [hydroxystearate and isostearate sorbitol, and glycerol] with 20 moles of propylene oxide and 30 moles of ethylene oxide produced in the sale by the company ICI under the name "ARLACEL 780" - 2 grams

Preservatives - Sufficient

Perfume is The same

Water To total amount 100 G6

1. Cosmetic composition for sun protection of the skin and/or hair filter-based and carrier, characterized in that it contains in a cosmetically acceptable medium, (i) 4-methylbenzylidene-camphor (compound A) in solubilizer) as the second filter in the quantity sufficient to solubilize it just the number of the above-mentioned UV-b filter.

2. The composition according to p. 1, characterized in that it contains the connection And in the amount of 0.5 - 10 wt.% in the calculation of the totality of the composition.

3. Composition under item 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains the compound In the amount of 2 to 15 wt.% in the calculation of the totality of the composition.

4. The composition according to PP.1 to 3, characterized in that the mass ratio (connection : connection) is 0.3 - 30.

5. The composition according to PP.1 to 4, characterized in that the above ratio above 0.5.

6. The composition according to PP.1 to 5, characterized in that the above ratio is less than 25, preferably less than 10.

7. The composition according to PP.1 - 6, characterized in that it contains, in addition, solubilizing the form of 4-(tert.-butyl)-4'-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane (compound C) as active in UV-a region filter.

8. The composition according to PP.1 to 7, characterized in that it contains a join In - solubilizers agent for compounds or mixtures of compound A/compound C.

9. The composition according to PP.1 to 8, characterized in that the said cosmetically acceptable carrier is in the form of an emulsion type, the only additional organic filters, active in UV-a region and/or UV-b region, hydrophilic or lipophilic.

11. The composition according to p. 10, characterized in that the above additional organic filters chosen in the group comprising derivatives of cinnamic acid, salicylic acid derivatives, camphor derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, derivatives dibenzoylmethane, derivatives-diphenylacetone acid, derivatives of p-aminobenzoic acid, polymer filters and silicone filters.

12. The composition according to PP.1 - 11, characterized in that they contain, in addition, as an additional sunscreen agents, pigments or nanopigments on the basis of metal oxides, coated or not, are able to physically block due to the diffusion and/or reflection UV-radiation.

13. The composition according to p. 12, characterized in that the above-mentioned pigments or nanopigments chosen among oxides of titanium, zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium and mixtures thereof, coated or without it.

14. The composition according to PP.1 - 13, characterized in that it contains, in addition, at least one, causing the artificial tanning and/or artificial skin darkening agent.

15. Comp is the group, including fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic or nonionic thickeners, softeners, antioxidants, dampers, stabilizers, plasticizers (softeners), silicones, -hydroxy acids, antispyware, hidratante, vitamins, perfumes, preservatives, surface active agents, fillers, complexing agents, polymers, propellants, alkalizing or acidifying agents, dyes.

16. The composition according to PP.1 - 15, characterized in that to protect the skin she is in the form of a nonionic vesicular dispersions, emulsions, particularly emulsions of the type oil-in-water creams, jelly, gel, cremella, suspensions, dispersions, powders (powders), solid sticks, pen or caused by atomization of drugs.

17. The composition according to PP.1 - 15, characterized in that makeup eyelashes, the eyebrows or the skin, it is in solid or pasty, anhydrous or aqueous form, in the form of emulsions, suspensions or dispersions.

18. The composition according to PP.1 - 15, characterized in that to protect hair from UV rays it is in the form of shampoos, lotions, gels, emulsions, nonionic vesicular dispersions or hair sprays.

19. The composition according to PP.1 - 18 different tindiprinterite as a solubilizer 4-methylbenzylidene or a mixture of 4-methylbenzylidene with 4-(tert.-butyl)-4'-methoxy-dibenzoylmethane in tinted cosmetic compositions.

21. Method of cosmetic treatment of the skin and/or hair to protect from UV radiation, in particular solar, wherein the skin and/or hair put an effective amount of a composition according to PP.1 - 19.

 

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5 cl, 2 tbl, 2 ex

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